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3616 messages, Last post on Apr 22, 2009 at 5:06 AM
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Replying to: dwynne (Jan 15, 2008 11:23 am) Tests done in France have shown that visibility is actually best with slightly yellow tinted light and despite the apparent brightness of blueish light, it scatters and projects far worse than longer wavelengths. So it turns out the old sealed beams and OEM lights are best.* *99% of cars come from the factory with substandard wiring harnesses. Upgrading the wiring to your lights is a good weekend project and will increase your light output greatly. A headlamp operating at 11V can literally be half as bright as 12V, especially with HID designs. People spend all sorts of money on higher output bulbs when the wiring is most likely at fault.
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Replying to: plekto (Jan 15, 2008 1:06 pm) That's an interesting premise, but do you have some data to support that claim? It would seem that if the wire were substandard, the heat generated by the wire's resistance could create a safety issue. I'd be surprised that automotive electrical engineers would over-look this.
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Replying to: maltb (Jan 16, 2008 9:06 am)
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Replying to: maltb (Jan 16, 2008 9:06 am) Add in after-market bulbs in an attempt to compensate and things start pushing the limits. The wires themselves would need 2-3 times the current to actually fail/catch on fire - it's the relays and such that blow first.
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Replying to: aviboy97 (Jan 17, 2008 3:12 pm) |
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Replying to: plekto (Jan 17, 2008 3:17 pm) I'm familiar enough with the business to know that this would not be the case and, in fact, a margin of over-specification is added. Of course, if you have a roll of 12 guage wire and an ammeter, you could always test it and post your results of OE spec vs. Monster Cable (headlight wire of course).
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Replying to: maltb (Jan 18, 2008 3:40 pm) ie - the headlights light up and everything works and they saved some money. Also, running the bulbs undervoltage a bit, as long as they are within the spec for minimum wattage(technically 45W for a high beam, though 55W is considered standard) makes them last a bit longer, so you can use cheaper bulbs. Running 12V lamps at 11.5 drops their output by about 15-20% on average, but doubles their life. So shipping the car with 11.5V lights that put out 50W instead of 55W, well, that still gets a pass by the DOT for light output and you saved a few dollars per car. Kind of like OEM tires and brakes. It's something that works at a minimally acceptable level but that should be replaced as soon as possible if you're driving something other than a sportscar/it came with those upgrades. Unfortunately the wiring harness isn't something that the average person can swap out like tires(okay they CAN, but for most people if it's not as simple as a screwdriver and a socket/plug they don't bother - go figure) Instead they typically get brighter bulbs. After all, it's $20 at the local Auto Zone and there's a huge wall of them all proclaiming how they will make your lights brighter...
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Replying to: plekto (Jan 19, 2008 9:58 am) Anyone have a nice inductive ammeter I can borrow? |
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My dealer tells me the ruff idle and miss is do to trailing coil and plugs gone bad " under warranty" BUT leading plugs are bad and not covered because there are fouled. Could the bad trailing coil and plugs have caused the leading plugs to go bad ? They want $320.00 for parts and labor for replacing leading plugs even tho they are right there replacing trailing plugs and coil !!! I mentioned this idle and miss to them 4 mo's ago and all they said was that its all controled by the computer.
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Replying to: bullwinkle fan (Feb 05, 2008 1:22 pm)
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