Last post on Oct 03, 2013 at 11:03 AM
You are in the Toyota Echo
What is this discussion about?
Toyota ECHO, Coupe, Sedan
#565 of 914 Re: plat [kneisl1]
Jan 12, 2009 (7:43 am)
Well, I already owned my Echo when the first set of spark plugs came out, and they were platinums. And yes, the maintenance schedule that came with the car lists 60K replacement intervals. But it is a California car, and California cars have different emissions requirements that often require longer periods of maintenance-free operation than 49-state cars.
As for your Echo, I might be suspicious - my guess would be that possibly some less-than-totally-ethical (or ignorant) mechanic convinced the last owner that the platinums needed replacement at 30K, and stuck regular plugs in there instead. But certainly it is also possible that Toyota went from specifying platinums to specifying regulars in later years of the Echo's run. I just can't imagine the reason why they would. And of course, since you are not in a California-emissions state, it's possible that CA cars had 60K-mile plugs, and 49-state cars had 30K-mile plugs. The Toyota website shows 30K-mile intervals for the plugs for both the 2002 (mine) and 2004 (yours) model years.
And BTW there's no mention in my maintenance schedule of anything being a 100K interval as you pointed out with the Camry. I am aware though that many Toyota models today (NOT including the older Echo, but including my '07 Matrix) use iridium plugs which are scheduled for replacement at 105K-mile intervals. At the rate I drive, my 105K plugs will be getting replaced before your 30K plugs, so I won't worry too much about being able to get them out.
BTW, why would they be corroded in there, unless you have a fluid leak getting into the threads? Otherwise, there should be no moisture and hence no corrosion on the plug threads?
Jan 12, 2009 (9:36 am)
Look at where the sealing washer on the plug is. It seals everything above the threads but not below. The threads are open to the combustion chamber. When you remove the plugs the threads will be brown with deposits. The longer you leave the plugs in the greater the ammount of deposits on them. Also it is likely to take ten years to drive 100k miles. Thats what can lead to them being frozen in place. Modern cars have plastic valve covers which protect the sparkplug wires and plugs. But older cars with plugs recessed deep into the heads have less protection from water flooding the sparkplug area. I often saw the sparkplug chamber filled with water after removing the connectors.
The maintenance schedule that came with the Camry specified the 100k interval for the plugs. Since I remove them periodically to clean the threads I can check up on them and change them if they need it before the 100k mile interval .
#567 of 914 Re: light [kneisl1]
Jan 14, 2009 (4:18 pm)
Thank you bery much. Your info is very helpful..!
The work you describe is well within my limited mechanical abilities, and now that I'm not working "in the dark" I'll be agle to do it without worrying! ">})
I have no idea why Toyota appears to have different plugs and different replacement schedules for them on their Echos. I do know that mine are platinums and my manual schedules their replacement at 90K miles. When I bought the car the service manager even warned me against letting an inexperienced mechanic change them at 30K..!
Feb 01, 2009 (1:28 pm)
I just picked up a 2001 Echo, 2dr, AT, 40k. It is clean & runs very nice. I have records from the dealer showing regular maint. The only thing I don't see is a change of plugs listed on the 30k maint.
One of the reasons I picked this car is the is the great owner reviews all over the net. I have three college students so I have a fleet of 5 cars & this will help with fuel costs.
I am planning on a K & N air filter like my other cars. Any recomendations???
I'm all ears?
Feb 01, 2009 (2:19 pm)
Should be easy enough to pull the plugs and check them. Check the AF too easy to do. If its dirty you got lied to! Check the brake pads front and shoes rear. Easy to do the disc's.
Sorry I CANNOT recommend the KN filter for your ECHO. The standard filter is EXCELLENT you could not do better. The standard filters 99% of the dirt. The KN filters 95%. That means it passes 4 times the dirt of the stock! But wait theres more! The oil in the KN filter is upstream of the mass air sensor. Oil gets on the wires and your car runs like crap. Yes you can clean the wires but they are fragile. Break them and spend $200 for a new sensor. KN air filter NOT a good idea.
Good luck with your ECHO it sounds like you got a nice car!
#570 of 914 Re: 30k [kneisl1]
Feb 01, 2009 (4:10 pm)
Thanks K1 - I run K & N's on my other cars(Honda's) with no problems. I can pass on the K & N to spare the air sensor.
I love the fact that I won't have to deal with a timing belt. This car loooks a little funny, but it seems like a bullet proof little money saver. As I mentioned I have three college students and my gas/car expensives need saving: )
I got lucky to find a slighty used one in TOP shape. I drove it home about 50 miles and it purred like a new car.
I'll pull the plugs when it warms up & check the air filter. I can't wait to check the mileage!!! I really wanted a stick, but this AT model was to good to pass on.
Feb 01, 2009 (6:43 pm)
Yes they run very well and hold up good too. I get 31 mpg with my 2004 with AT but i only drive it 6 miles to and from work. Hope it improves with warmer weather.
Feb 02, 2009 (1:42 pm)
A K&N drop-in filter does no good whatsoever except make noise. Modern air filtration systems are excellent and besides, all gasoline cars have a throttle plate, so the "air flow" issue is moot. Only at Wide Open Throttle would the K&N even have a chance to act differently, since the throttle plate is not interfering, and the so-called "horsepower" gain is so miniscule as to be statistically irrelevant on a dyno. This is especially true on small displacement engines. On a big honkin' V-8, even with the air filter completely removed, the gain in HP is minimal and not noticeable (again, unless you include a) noise and b) maybe on some cars a bit more throttle response if the stock filter is kinked or restrictive.
Feb 02, 2009 (2:28 pm)
I grew up repairing and rebuilding aircooled VWs. There were a lot of "performance" mods on the market. Most of them resulted in dammage to the engine in one form or another. Yet today many (young) people heavily modify their cars with great gusto. This is a mistake in my experience. Most likely the mods will do nothing or dammage the car in some way. An ECHO is not exactly a high performance vehicle anyway (although the engine is a real gem) and attempts to make it into one are kind of silly. It really is beautifully designed to do one thing and do it well: cheap reliable transportation.
#574 of 914 Re: Cool engine acceleration problem SOLVED [krakato]
Feb 12, 2009 (6:50 pm)
I have a different problem. When I hit 45 mph my check engine light comes on and then my car starts to accelerate. When I finally get it to stop and put it in park it accelerates again. My gas mileage is terrible and gas costs $6 per gallon.
I live on dirt roads in bush Alaska and I have put about $1000 trying to get this fixed. After reading some of the comments I am going to try to clean the MAF but I do not know where it is. I assume it is near the air filter. Someone else suggested cleaning the two wires at, in or near the MAF. I really don't know too much, but it is clear the mechanic in this small town is just guessing at my expense.
Does anyone have any other suggestions? I changed the plugs, PCV valve and something I think was called the air throttle control valve that cost $200. Thanks in;advance for your comments. My car is 2001 echo.