Last post on May 03, 2013 at 4:53 PM
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#2013 of 2025 Tried replacing my own pads this weekend.
Sep 25, 2012 (1:33 pm)
I'm sure this has been covered but I am patting myself on the back for changing my own pads this weekend. If you don't need things like the rotors turned changing your own brakepads is surprisingly easy (and pretty inexpensive). On my car (2004 Honda CR-V) literally, jack the car up and use a second jack to support the wheel (not sure if necessary but I had it so I did it). Remove the tire. Find the two bolts on the back side of the caliper (they have rubber boots connected to them). Undo one and rotate the caliper out of the way. Replace pads and other needed parts. Check the rubber boots for cracking and make sure the pins move properly. Depress the caliper, this is the hard part as it takes strength (I'm not the strongest person in the world) and some patience to do it by hand but I did it. They likely make tools for this but it can be done by hand, just remember that you are forcing liquid back out through a tiny hose so it will move VERY slowly and you just can't speed it up.
All in all, to replace the front pads it took me 20-30min tops for both sides combined and $50 for some Wagner Thermoquiet ceramic pads. No clue if there are better deals on pads but I've been very happy with them on the rear and I decided to put them on the front as well.
#2014 of 2025 Re: Tried replacing my own pads this weekend. [pedrodagr8]
Sep 27, 2012 (6:34 pm)
Woo Hoo - Congratulations for replacing your own brake pads. I have been doing this since I was about 15 years old and have learned a "trick or two" along the way.
*) An inexpensive clamp or even a large pair of waterpump-pliers can be used to compress the caliper. (plus you get to own a cool new tool!)
*) Have the cap off of the master-cylinder and WATCH THE FLUID LEVEL as you compress a caliper.... the level WILL go up and you may need to remove some fluid before it overflows and makes the paint come off your car.
*) REAR calipers which have integrated parking-brake *MUST* be compressed and rotated at the same time. (An opportunity to own a real caliper-compressor)
*) File smooth all the pad-slider surfaces before applying the hi-temp grease.
*) Apply a thin layer of antisease grease to inside of wheel so it does not get stuck to the rotor.
*) Use torque-wrench on lugnuts and RETORQUE a few days later if you have aluminum wheels. (another opportunity to own a new tool)
Oct 09, 2012 (5:46 pm)
I own a 2008 Lexus IS 250. I've owned it since late 2009. Just brought my car in for an oil change and they said I need new front brakes. They showed me the pads and I guess they looked low compared to a model they had of new pads. I had my front pads replaced 6/12/11 and it's now Oct 2012. It looks like they wrote my mileage on the receipt, but I'm not positive (it's listed under license No, but it's obv not my license #)...40,815...my mileage now is a little over 50k...I thought brake pads should last closer to 30,000 miles?? I found it interesting when I first was told I needed new brakes that I got, not only different price quotes for the repairs, but that each shop (local mechanics, midas, etc) told me that I needed different things. Some said just front brakes, some said front and back. Some said new rotors or rotor resurfacing, some just pads...Called the dealer who put the pads on in 2011 and said it seems kinda soon to need new pads and he said to bring it in and he'd take a look at it. Any advice?
Also, after reading the tips on brakes on this website, one article said you can wait until you hear a squeeking noise from the metal in the pads, which is there to tell you it's time to replace. Another article said you should try to time it before that happens...any suggestions?
#2016 of 2025 Re: Brake pad replacement [vballplayer30]
Oct 09, 2012 (6:36 pm)
Is this the first time you have ever taken a car in for service? Unfortunately, this happens ALL THE TIME. Some places are worse than others. (For example Midas mechanics get a 'kickback' when they sell more stuff to a customer)
As for waiting for a "squeeking sound" This is only true if the pads have "wear sensors" attached to them. Some better-designed cars actually have an electrical sensor which lite up an indicator on the dash (Volkswagen, Audi and other German makes.)
If your last "barke job" was done on the cheap... then you may not have any wear-sensors at all.
On to your underlying question.... "is this "too soon" to be needing new pads" ABSOLUTELY!! (I get 60-80 thousand miles on brakepads)
However, your driving-habits may wear the brakes faster. (Do you completely release the brake pedal when not using brakes?)
Pads which are sticking in the guides may wear faster... but a properly executed "brake job" should have filed the rust off of the guides and lubed them.
A problem with the hydrolic-system could also cause premature brake-wear. (very VERY unlikely)
"Do you need rotors" Usually NO... If they are still servicable, they can be used for a very long time.
Your *real* problem?.... you seem to be having troubles finding a reputable service mechanic that you can trust with your car.
#2017 of 2025 Re: Brake pad replacement [bpeebles]
Oct 10, 2012 (4:12 pm)
Thanks for the info! I am trying to find a trustworthy mechanic, but it seems like you can't trust any of them! And yes, I know all about the mechanics and tire guys trying to get you to buy extra things you don;t need! Thanks again!
#2018 of 2025 2008 Mercury Mariner
Apr 27, 2013 (7:19 pm)
This happens occasionally. A medium to harder stop resulting in a popping sound, then what feels like a split second loss of braking force before reengaging. New pads, rotors turned. Dealership says can't find or duplicate.
#2019 of 2025 Re: 2008 Mercury Mariner [jipster]
Apr 30, 2013 (8:12 am)
Any ideas on what problem may be?
#2020 of 2025 Re: 2008 Mercury Mariner [jipster]
Apr 30, 2013 (9:35 am)
Don't you think you might get an answer if you posted this under cardoc's topic?
Is the popping felt in the pedal?
#2021 of 2025 Re: 2008 Mercury Mariner [obyone]
Apr 30, 2013 (10:11 am)
Well, my impression is that doc doesn't care to answer diagnostic related questions.
The bolt like popping sound comes from underneath the car. You feel a split second loss of pressure in the pedal at the sound of the pop.
#2022 of 2025 Re: 2008 Mercury Mariner [jipster]
Apr 30, 2013 (11:36 am)
My best guess is that it sounds like the pad is hanging up causing the sound or a loose caliper.