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Maintenance & Repair Stop here! Let's talk about brakes
1885 messages, Last post on Mar 20, 2010 at 4:07 PM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
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Replying to: mazcar (Dec 13, 2005 2:49 pm) |
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| I have a problem with a 1998 mercury villager this being it has a very intermittent brake pedal failure as in sometimes not for a couple months then once and then not again for a long period of time (ect) have replaced front and rear brakes also rear wheel cylinders did a complete fluid change when wheel cylinders were replaced but problem persists problem is pedal will travel to floor with seeminly no brake but let up and hit again brakes fine for along time as stated earlier has been to dealership but of course it wouldnt do it dose'nt do this enough to lead me to think its the MC wondering if possibly ABS unit malfunction although throws no codes or lights any info helpful THANKS | |
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Replying to: bpeebles (Mar 14, 2006 8:36 pm) impact_driver: That sure sounds like a failing master cylinder.
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I recently notice that my l left side rear pads were dragging and wore the pads down. Upon disassembly, I noticed that the brake pad was not properly aligned in the piston groove and that there was a slight residue on the piston that may have also hindered its retraction into the caliper. I used a little liquid penetrant and flushed it out with clean brake fluid. However, I think that the left brake caliper may still be slightly dragging. After driving 12 highway miles to work with using brakes minimally, the right rear rotor is warm to the touch when the other three are cooler. Is a slight brake drag normal? Inspection of the Caliper Pins indicated that they were greased and operating properly. I was not looking to rebuild the caliper at this time. However, can I go back in and coat the piston with caliper grease or use liquid silicon brake spray? Thanks for any suggestions. PS: If the rear rotor retracts only by turning it clockwise, how is it that it relieves the pressure from the piston?
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Replying to: warrenul (Mar 19, 2006 7:49 pm) Since the corrosion is INSIDE the cylinder walls, there is virtually nothing you can "spray on" that would make much difference. I have personal experince with this.... Just replace the caliper and be done with it. Your time to take it all apart over and over and over to spray somthing on it is not time well spent. Also, the heat from a dragging caliper will burn off all the grease from the wheelbearing and can cause even more damage. It is NOT recommended for you to attempt to "rebuild" a sticky caliper. Make some phonecalls to some autoparts stores. Most of them have a "core return" policy wheras they will take back your old caliper. A caliper rebuilt under sterile conditions using the proper equipment will last farr longer than any "rebuild" you would attempt at home. Again, I have about 25 years of experince with this stuff. Dont mess around with it, just take it apart ONCE and replace the caliper.... there is nothing else you can do that will fix it. Brakes are too important to your safety to even consider anything else.
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Replying to: bpeebles (Mar 19, 2006 8:17 pm) |
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Sage advice... During 30 or more years of caliper heartbrake (a play on words) I have learned the same lesson: Change 'em out with rebuilts.
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Replying to: wtd44 (Mar 20, 2006 2:09 pm)
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I have a 97 Caravan that I replaced rotors, and drums, pads, and shoes. Brake pedal was high as expected. Brakes not bleed at this time. After a short trip to town pedal goes to floor. Brakes bled this time. Air from both rear cylinders no air from front. Short trip pedal to floor. Re bleed and same. Air from rear cylinders. I checked all brake lines before both bleeds, and no sign of leaks. The fluid level in the resevor doesn't go down. From what I can see the RH. front caliper is on the same line as the LH. rear, and LH. front on RH rear break line. Please help. |
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Replying to: burdawg (Mar 20, 2006 9:28 pm) None leaked as long as I owned the cars, each for several years. On all of these, I had a cylinder 'reamer', which is abrasive 'stones' on a drive that chuckes into a variable speed drill and hones the cylinder out. Then, new rubber parts are installed. The Vette calipers were especially worrisome, since there were significant 'pits' where water had accumulated and rusted the bores. But my more experienced friend that was helping felt they would hold and not leak even though we did not hone out the bore enough to get rid of the pits. And, they did not leak after assembly and for a few years more of ownership. Now-a-days, when I hear about 'cheep', it pertains to the foreign made rotor and calipers sold as 'new' replacement parts. But I did install the cheepest rotors I could find (Made in China) onto my 94 Ranger. This cured the warped induced braking shimmy and lasted for several years til sale of the truck. And, in the future I would probably replace rather than rebuild. The replacements, either new or rebuilds, including brake parts and starters, alternators, etc are about as cheep as buying the parts - bearings, brushes, seals, boots, hones, etc.
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