Last post on May 03, 2013 at 4:53 PM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair
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#2016 of 2025 Re: Brake pad replacement [vballplayer30]
Oct 09, 2012 (6:36 pm)
Is this the first time you have ever taken a car in for service? Unfortunately, this happens ALL THE TIME. Some places are worse than others. (For example Midas mechanics get a 'kickback' when they sell more stuff to a customer)
As for waiting for a "squeeking sound" This is only true if the pads have "wear sensors" attached to them. Some better-designed cars actually have an electrical sensor which lite up an indicator on the dash (Volkswagen, Audi and other German makes.)
If your last "barke job" was done on the cheap... then you may not have any wear-sensors at all.
On to your underlying question.... "is this "too soon" to be needing new pads" ABSOLUTELY!! (I get 60-80 thousand miles on brakepads)
However, your driving-habits may wear the brakes faster. (Do you completely release the brake pedal when not using brakes?)
Pads which are sticking in the guides may wear faster... but a properly executed "brake job" should have filed the rust off of the guides and lubed them.
A problem with the hydrolic-system could also cause premature brake-wear. (very VERY unlikely)
"Do you need rotors" Usually NO... If they are still servicable, they can be used for a very long time.
Your *real* problem?.... you seem to be having troubles finding a reputable service mechanic that you can trust with your car.
#2017 of 2025 Re: Brake pad replacement [bpeebles]
Oct 10, 2012 (4:12 pm)
Thanks for the info! I am trying to find a trustworthy mechanic, but it seems like you can't trust any of them! And yes, I know all about the mechanics and tire guys trying to get you to buy extra things you don;t need! Thanks again!
#2018 of 2025 2008 Mercury Mariner
Apr 27, 2013 (7:19 pm)
This happens occasionally. A medium to harder stop resulting in a popping sound, then what feels like a split second loss of braking force before reengaging. New pads, rotors turned. Dealership says can't find or duplicate.
#2019 of 2025 Re: 2008 Mercury Mariner [jipster]
Apr 30, 2013 (8:12 am)
Any ideas on what problem may be?
#2020 of 2025 Re: 2008 Mercury Mariner [jipster]
Apr 30, 2013 (9:35 am)
Don't you think you might get an answer if you posted this under cardoc's topic?
Is the popping felt in the pedal?
#2021 of 2025 Re: 2008 Mercury Mariner [obyone]
Apr 30, 2013 (10:11 am)
Well, my impression is that doc doesn't care to answer diagnostic related questions.
The bolt like popping sound comes from underneath the car. You feel a split second loss of pressure in the pedal at the sound of the pop.
#2022 of 2025 Re: 2008 Mercury Mariner [jipster]
Apr 30, 2013 (11:36 am)
My best guess is that it sounds like the pad is hanging up causing the sound or a loose caliper.
#2023 of 2025 Re: 2008 Mercury Mariner [jipster]
May 01, 2013 (4:46 am)
ABS kicking in, for some reason?
#2024 of 2025 Re: Tried replacing my own pads this weekend. [bpeebles]
May 03, 2013 (10:52 am)
Get the correct brake pads - Pads are available at any auto parts store or your local car dealership. Just let them know the year, make and model of your car. They will typically offer you a choice of different quality pads with a wide range in price. In general, the more expensive they are, the longer they last. Be aware that some very expensive pads with a higher than desirable metal content may be aimed at the 'Rally' market for use with performance Rotors. You will probably not want those because they are likely to cause premature wear of standard Rotors. Preferably try to obtain brake pads that have a visibly similar metal content to the existing pads. Also, some people find that less expensive pads are noisier than "brand name" pads.
Make sure the vehicle is cooled down - If you have recently driven, you may be working with extremely hot pads, calipers and rotors. Be sure that these parts are safe to touch before moving on.
Loosen the lug nuts - Using a lug wrench (one is usually provided along with the car's jack), loosen each of the lug nuts that hold the wheels onto the car about two thirds of the way.
Jack the car up - Locate a safe place to position the car jack under your car. Check the user's manual or check for markings that indicate where to place the jack. Put some chocks behind the wheels that are on the ground to stop the car from rolling forward or back. Carefully jack the car up until the wheel can be removed easily. Place a jack stand or blocks under the frame of the vehicle. Do NOT trust the jack alone. Repeat for the other side of the car so that both sides are securely supported.
Remove the wheels - Finish loosening and removing the lug nuts. Pull the wheel straight out towards you to remove it.
If the wheel rims are Alloy and are either seized or partially seized on the studs, try kicking the tyre at the bottom with your foot a few times and hopefully it will move. when this occurs, you should clean the studs, stud holes, Rotor mounting surface, and the rear mounting surface of the alloy wheel - with a wire brush and apply anti seize compound before refitting the wheel.
You should now be looking at the rotor (a large, flat metal disc) and the caliper (a large clamp-like device wrapped around the top of the rotor).
Remove the caliper bolts - There are many different ways that the caliper is secured and different Caliper designs necessitating different removal procedures. The mounting position also depends on the Caliper design and whether it is an all one piece, a two piece, or a more complex design Caliper. All One piece Calipers are generally secured with between 2 to four bolts at the inside of the stub axle housing. Spray these bolts with WD-40 or PB Penetrating Catalyst to aid in removing them. Using a correct size Socket or Ring spanner, loosen and remove the bolts MAKING ABSOLUTELY SURE THAT THERE ARE NO SHIMS FITTED BETWEEN THE CALIPER MOUNTING BOLTS AND MOUNTING SURFACE. If there are they must be refitted as they were or the Caliper will not sit correctly.
If any do fall out unexpectedly, you will need to refit the Caliper without the brake pads and using a combination of feeler gauges, measure the difference between the pad mounting surface to the Caliper at the top and Bottom. Then, work out the difference/s and allocate the shims accordingly.
Alternatively, many Japanese vehicles use a 2 piece sliding Caliper that only requires the removal of 2x forward facing, upper and lower, slider bolts, and NOT the removal of the entire caliper. These bolts are often 12 or 14mm heads.
Additionally, if these caliper are completely removed, it is much more difficult to fit the brake pads into them.
Check the caliper pressure - The caliper should now move a slight amount if you shake it. If not the caliper is under pressure and it may fly off when you remove the bolts. Take extra precaution to not be in its path, whether it is loose or not.
Next, have a piece of light tie wire handy, about a foot long, before you proceed.
As the caliper will still be connected to the brake line, hang it up carefully by the wire, in the wheel well, so that it doesn't drop and have any weight on the flexible brake hose.
Remove the top of the Brake Master cylinder from under the engine hood and inspect the fluid level before the pistons are 'Squeezed' back to enable the new brake pads to be fitted. Many mechanics draw some fluid from the master cylinder before proceeding to squeeze the brake Caliper pistons.
However, a better method is bleed the old Caliper fluid off by fitting a brake bleeding hose to the Caliper nipple, place the hose in a small bottle and undo the bleeder nipple as the pistons are squeezed. They are easily squeezed with one hand using large 12 inch water pump pliers - much easier than C or G clamps. So, the pliers are held in one hand and the bleeder spanner in the other. If it was not intended to bleed the brakes they still do not need to be, but the old fluid will have been removed from the Calipers at the same time as squeezing the pistons fully inwards. Repeat this with the other pad. Note that there is normally only one piston to be compressed for the right front and likewise for the left front.
Remove the pads - Note how each brake pad is attached. They typically snap or clip in with attached metal clips. Remove both pads. They may take a little force to pop out, so take care not to damage the caliper or brake line while getting them out.
Put the new pads on - Spread the special anti seize lubricant that came with your pads, (if it's not provided you can get it at any auto store,) sparingly on the metal contact edges and on the back of the pads, the surface of any shims and the piston pad contact area. This will prevent a lot of annoying squeaking. Attach the new pads exactly the way the old ones were attached.
Check the brake fluid - Check your vehicle's brake fluid level and add some if necessary. Replace the brake fluid reservoir cap when finished.
Replace the caliper - Slide the caliper slowly back over the rotor, proceeding easily so as not to damage anything. Replace and tighten the bolts that hold the caliper in place.
Put the wheel back on - Slide the wheel back into place and hand tighten each of the lug nuts snug.
Lower the car - With one side of the car supported by the jack, remove the block or stand on that side and slowly release the jack and to lower the car. Repeat for the other side so that both wheels are back on the ground.
Tighten the lug nuts - Moving in a "star" pattern, tighten one lug nut, then one across from it until each nut is fully tightened to torque specification.
See technical info to find the torque spec for your vehicle. This will insure the lugs have been tightened enough to prevent the wheel coming off or over-tightening.
Start the vehicle - Making sure the vehicle is in neutral or park, pump
#2025 of 2025 Re: 2008 Mercury Mariner [srs_49]
May 03, 2013 (4:53 pm)
Feels a bit like the abs now that you mention it. Got about 1,000 miles before warranty wears out. Will watch for a light next tome it happens.