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Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy

1085 messages,  Last post on Oct 29, 2009 at 12:41 PM

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#981 of 1085 Re: 01 INFINITI I30 [bigwweb] by kiawah May 15, 2008 (5:48 pm)
Replying to: bigwweb (May 15, 2008 5:36 pm) You are going to probably need to get a set of electrical schematics for your vehicle, I don't have a set. If you have a body control module (computer which manages the lights, locks, alarms, windows, delayed power off, etc), it is probably blown.   If you get a set of schematics, you'd be able to troubleshoot the circuitry. I looked at helminc.com who have an online subsription service for like 10bucks for 2 days access, but they don't have your make vehicle.   If you can locate a set of schematics, I'll try to help diagnose your problem. Replies to this message: bigwweb (May 16, 2008 9:15 am)
#982 of 1085 Re: 01 INFINITI I30 [kiawah] by bigwweb May 16, 2008 (9:15 am)
Replying to: kiawah (May 15, 2008 5:48 pm) thank you i'll do that
#983 of 1085 off again on again buick century by cookie50 May 16, 2008 (5:26 pm)
when I start the car the gauges and locks won't work until about half way down the block, then you hear the locks click, the gas gauge moves and you can se if you're in drive or third or neutral... what might be the problem
#984 of 1085 overheating and don't know why! by blazin1991 Jun 04, 2008 (8:30 pm)
I have a 1991 S10 Blazer with a 4.3L and 2WD. My temp gauge keeps jumping to 260F, but the actual temp is between 170 and 200 according to my digital laser temp tool, I've checked the temp at the thermostat housing, both upper and lower hoses, both temp sensors, the water pump and the coolant crossover passages on the front of the intake. I've replaced the temp sensor in the side of the cylinder head, replaced the radiator, the thermostat, the cluster circuit board, and the temp gauge itself, and the problem still exists, the only thing i can think of is the water pump impellers have sheared off and the coolant isn't circulating, but the coolant level drops slightly when reving the motor up. Any advice or suggestions on this matter would be great, I'm actually an ASE certified tech and my other ASE buddies can't figure this one out either
#985 of 1085 1998 buick park ave/ electrical by luckydogg Jun 09, 2008 (8:59 pm)
Driving to work last week my radio and all power windows quit. 15-20 minutes later they came back on. next day same thing. Third time they quit for good, windows in the down position of course. I checked all the fuses under the hood and under the back seat. Moved circuit breakers around. Fuse's were all good. I checked the ground wires and tightened them up good (under driver side door still) There was two in line fuse's under the back seat they were fine. Finally I got it in the GM dealership and they told me to bring it back in next week as there top electrical mechanic was on vacation, but they did have a guy work two hours on it and he could not find the problem. So it looks like I am driving to work every day with the windows down come rain or shine unless someone can help me out. I will be forever grate full Mike e mail address digger_dog67yahoo.com
#986 of 1085 power windows by toollman Jun 12, 2008 (8:20 pm)
i have 1995 buick centry.power windowers work in the back and on the master switches at driver seat but the front does not work please help i tried numerious things Replies to this message: bolivar (Jun 12, 2008 11:43 pm)
#987 of 1085 Re: power windows [toollman] by bolivar Jun 12, 2008 (11:43 pm)
Replying to: toollman (Jun 12, 2008 8:20 pm) Pull a door panel off when the window does not work.   Pull the connector off the power window motor.   Put a voltmeter across the leads inside the connector you removed.   Push the window button for 'up'. You should get 12 volts. Push the button for 'down'. You should get a 'reversed' 12 volts.   If you get these voltages, the wiring is ok, and the motor is failed. If you don't get these voltages, you have a wiring or fuse problem somewhere.
#988 of 1085 window prob. by luckydogg Jun 13, 2008 (11:54 am)
If none of the windows work and the radio dosen't work do you think it stil could be a window motor as you mentioned???? digger_dog67yahoo.com If i connected the wire to a 12 volt battery could i get the windowa to go up???? I don't mind them not working so much as them being stuck in the down position?? Replies to this message: bolivar (Jun 14, 2008 1:03 am) bolivar (Jun 14, 2008 1:05 am)
#989 of 1085 Re: window prob. [luckydogg] by bolivar Jun 14, 2008 (1:03 am)
Replying to: luckydogg (Jun 13, 2008 11:54 am) If none of them work, could be a blown fuse or bad circuit breaker, or bad 'master' switch at the drivers door, or some who-knows-where wiring problem. Unless the radio is on the same circuit, I don't see where a dead radio and dead windows have any relationship...
#990 of 1085 Re: window prob. [luckydogg] by bolivar Jun 14, 2008 (1:05 am)
Replying to: luckydogg (Jun 13, 2008 11:54 am) If none of them work, could be a blown fuse or bad circuit breaker, or bad 'master' switch at the drivers door, or some who-knows-where wiring problem. Unless the radio is on the same circuit, I don't see where a dead radio and dead windows have any relationship...   Yes, if you pull each door panel, you should be able to jump power directly to the window motor. If the window tries to roll down, just reverse the leads and it should roll up.   The 'up' and 'down' is accomplished by reversing the voltage thru the motor.

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