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Maintenance & Repair Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy
1085 messages, Last post on Oct 29, 2009 at 11:41 AM
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Replying to: fanuttin (Dec 06, 2006 2:08 am) GM Blazer/Jimmy/Typhoon/Bravada 1983-1993 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the lower column trim panel, then remove the steering column-to-instrument panel fasteners and carefully lower the column for access to the switch. If the ignition switch shares fasteners with the dimmer switch it may be necessary to remove it first. 3. Remove the dimmer switch-to-steering column retainers, then remove the switch from the column. To install: 4. Position the switch to the column and loosely install the retainers. 5. Insert a 3/32 in. (2.38mm) drill bit into the adjustment hole provided in the switch to limit travel, then push the switch up against the actuator rod in order to remove lash. 6. Tighten the switch retainers, then remove the drill bit. 7. If removed for access, install the ignition switch. 8. Raise the column into position and secure, then install any necessary trim plates. 9. Make sure the ignition is OFF, then connect the negative battery cable. |
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hello everyone. i have an 1994 astro with a vortec 4.3 tbi.it runs well with no trouble codes for 5-45 min.then all at once it will just shut off then if you wait for about an hour it will restart.i have traced the problem down to that it is not getting any signal to the fuel injectors.its getting fuel up to the throttle body and its getting fire but when i hook my noid lite to the injector wires its not flashing.then after i wait for a while and i try it the lite will flash and it will run.i have tried both changing both computers in the kick panels one at a time and putting the originals back in when it didnt help the problem.i have also tried a different map sensor.can anyone here help me with this one? i have asked in other forums with no replys.thanks guys 
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I have a 1995 mitsubishi eclipse, and recently it started doing this thing where i turn the car on and at idle everything works fine the car heats up to the temperature it should be at and the heater works great, but right when i start driving the Temperature gauge goes down and my heater gets cold.. but once i put it in neutral it starts acting normal again..anybody know whatt to do?
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Replying to: libtechkid115 (Dec 29, 2006 12:15 am) You could test this theory---if you are driving down th road with a cold heater, put the car in neutral and just coast with your foot off the gas---if the heat goes back on, then there you go--you have some vacuum issue. If it isn't that, I'd check your coolant level. Have you added coolant lately or opened up the system? If you did, you might have air in the cooling system that needs to be bled out. Low coolan might also give you this problem. I don't think the thermostat could cause this, as you wouldn't have heat at idle with a bad thermostat if it were stuck closed....or if it were stuck open, you'd have heat idle or high speed. |
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Replying to: bolivar (Oct 14, 2006 10:50 pm) |
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1. 1999 PONTIAC GRAND AM 2. Engine size 2.4 L4 3. Transmission AUTOMATIC 4. Mileage 160000 5. Fuel Injection 6. ABS brakes 7. Cruise control CRUISE CONTROL, A/C, POWER STEERING My 1999 Pontiac Grand Am SE 2dr 4cyl automatic transmission is messing up. When I open a door, bump in to it, turn it on or do anything that involves electricity the car lights start flashing and clicking and if I hadn't turned of my alarm horn it would beep sometimes. It will even start flashing when I come to a stop light, and the engine is still running. It does this every time! My pass lock light on the dash is constantly FLASHING. This all started happening a few months ago when I let my friend drive the car and the battery just died, I replaced the battery Did I completely mess it up and is there anyway to stop the flashing and clicking? It is driving me crazy. I have to turn my headlights on during the day so people will not think I stole the car. Is this my passlock? I can start my car every time and the passlock light is FLASHING not staying on constantly. Can I expect my car to stop starting any day? We tried to cut the yellow wire attached to the ignition but it didn’t do any thing because I can start it every time so I doubt it is my ignition/ignition sensor. Please help I don’t have the money or want to spend it on a dealer fixing it. I keep reading about installing a remote start to bypass the passlock but my car STARTS. What do I do?
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Replying to: flashygrandam (Jan 12, 2007 5:28 am) |
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My high mileage Camry loses electrical power on occasion when attempting to start. I usually notice the problem when starting with the headlights turned on. Occasionally the electrical system will completely fail right after I start the car and switch the headlights on. On one occasion while driving, I turned the headlights off/on and the electrical system failed (while driving). All pos and neg leads from battery have been cleaned, cables and alternator replaced. Battery is 4 yrs old, yet tests good when analyzed. Usually after system fails, I disconnect neg and pos. cable from battery, wait a few minutes, reconnect and the car will start. Any ideas how to determine what the problem is?
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Replying to: toycam2 (Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm) |
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I have a 1971 Ford LTD. The radio works fine, but when I step on the brake, the volume goes lower. When I turn the blower up to high, the volume goes lower. I am thinking it is a grounding issue, but am not sure. Any suggestions to solve this problem?
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Maintenance & Repair Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy
