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Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy

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#664 of 1085 Re: Gremlins in a '99 Suburban [99tahoe44] by goose249 Jun 27, 2006 (7:04 pm)
Replying to: 99tahoe44 (Jun 24, 2006 7:53 pm) I replaced the ignition switch tonight. It took a while to find the right tools. You'll need a E5 external torx socket and a "deep" E4 external torx socket. I had some trouble finding the deep E4 until the local CarQuest parts guy looked up specialized tools and found it in the section for GM ignition tools. Their local warehouse had one left.   As for the rest of it, I couldn't figure out how to get the top shroud off without cutting the flange behind the key receptacle with an x-acto knife. Hope you have better luck there. Also, the white nylon two-wire switch that comes off the ignition switch you bought and goes on top of the tumbler mechanism has a tab you need to depress (on the top left) before you rotate it clockwise to get it out. This will make more sense once you get into it.   Took it for a quick test drive and everything looked ok. Good luck! Replies to this message: 99tahoe44 (Jul 01, 2006 10:36 am) 99tahoe44 (Jul 01, 2006 12:43 pm)
#665 of 1085 Mitsubishi w/ wacky indicator lights by ame529 Jun 28, 2006 (1:33 pm)
I recently purchased a 2002 Mitsubishi Diamante, while driving the battery and brake indicator flicker on and off(same time), sometimes they stay on for a while, and sometimes seem to turn off when I hit a bump. I have had the car at the dealer twice and they have replaced the alternator twice, and replaced the brake pads, no change. They said everything is running fine, and I have not had any problems with the way the car drives, just the annoying lights. Any suggestions?
#666 of 1085 Re: Gremlins in a '99 Suburban [goose249] by 99tahoe44 Jul 01, 2006 (10:36 am)
Replying to: goose249 (Jun 27, 2006 7:04 pm) Yes, I did also replaced the ignition switch and now everything works like magic. Upon opening up and examination of the bad switch the contacts showed strong signs of burning. The old switch probably can not be repaired because it falls into a million pieces (springs, contacts) when you open it. I just wanted to make sure this was really the problem. Actually a shame on GM since all contacts were more or less affected. As I bought the E4 and E5 external torx at the Snap-On dealer the dealer new right away what I had on mind. "...Ignition Switch hey?..."-he asked laughing. So this problem must be quite common. Probably even a design flaw.   I always loved American Cars and this 99 Tahoe was always my dream. But it is definately going to be my last Chevy and perhaps even my last American car. America is a great country with lots of skilled people willing to work hard and do good work. But they are lead by narrow minded short sighted moron decision makers. GM stinks from the head. Sorry for the resulting loss of jobs.   By the way thanks for pointing out the issue with the white two-wire switch. That saved me lots of time and possibly even the switch itself. I just kept telling myself to remember to turn it and I found the way it has to go. Quite tricky. Most of my problems arised from disconnecting the switch harness, turn signal harness from the main harness.   Thanks for all of you contributing on the issue. And enjoy the ride...
#667 of 1085 Re: Gremlins in a '99 Suburban [goose249] by 99tahoe44 Jul 01, 2006 (12:43 pm)
Replying to: goose249 (Jun 27, 2006 7:04 pm) Also by the way: It is actually possible to remove the upper shroud without braking it. You have to remove the speedometer/radio/AC cover, you have to pull the height adjustment knob on the lower shroud to remove the lower shroud. Then when you just play enough with the upper shoud it will come off. Just make sure to completly tape off your speedometer so you don't scratch it. I ended up doing it actually twice. It works you just have to play with it. Never the less I just had to buy the lower shroud piece. Previously as I tested the ignition switch (forcing the shroud out of the way without removing it) it must have got slightly out of allignment. So it did not close snug. GM charged me $28 for the lower piece. They told me the upper piece is about the same.
#668 of 1085 1996 jimmy hatch prolems by nurseypoo1 Jul 12, 2006 (12:57 pm)
help please! my jimmy's rear hatch suddenly started unlocking itself when i shift into drive and sometimes reverse. it doesn't do it all the time, but i'll be driving down the freeway and all of a sudden it will fly open. thought of taking out the fuse, but i'm not sure what else i'll disconnect. any help?
#669 of 1085 need help with a 96 olds cutlass by matpar Jul 24, 2006 (3:58 pm)
..I hope im in the right forum..I have a 96 old cutlass that starts everytime in the morning when its cool..then after 2/3 pm...i turn the key and nothing happens. Its been doing this for the last 2/3 summers. My mechanic replaced the ignition switch, and it stopped doing it for a while..and now its back to its old tricks again!! He put it on the computer, said it was fine..he even kept it one day and started it throught the day AND IT WORKED. Then when i get it home..well you get it. I'm thinking i cant be the only onethis has happened to..please..if you have ANY ideas..I'd love to hear them!! thanks!   matpar Replies to this message: cornellpinoy (Jul 24, 2006 5:59 pm)
#670 of 1085 Re: need help with a 96 olds cutlass [matpar] by cornellpinoy Jul 24, 2006 (5:59 pm)
Replying to: matpar (Jul 24, 2006 3:58 pm) The next time it doesn't start, tap the starter a few times with a broom stick and see if it starts up afterwards. I had a similar experience with our '94 Cutlass. Turned out to be a bad starter. Hasn't failed to fire up since it was replaced earlier this year.
#671 of 1085 My ML 320 Will not start! Help by torievans Jul 25, 2006 (7:52 pm)
Hi Guys, I figured if anyone would have an answer to the problem with my crazy car you guys might. The problem started about 3 months ago. When I was idling or going below 15 mph the radio and all the electrical things on the car would just go completely dead for only a second. Then they would all just start back up. Sometimes this would happen 5 times in a row and sometimes just once. (The car would never die but it felt like it was about to) It would happen intermittently and never consistently. It would just happen randomly. This went on for a few months and I took it to the dealer. They could not find a problem. And of course it would not happen when they had it. Then about a month ago it would do the same thing but then everything on the dash would flash and a very loud beeping would happen until I would turn the car off. When trying to start it , it would not start. Nothing just dead…no winding no power nothing. After attempting a few times then it would start. Again the dealership could not find the problem. The battery was replaced and home I went. 3 days later it would not start at all. Tried to start it for over 3 hours. Dead Dead Dead. I could not even get the windows up. The tow guy came and he was unable to get the car into neutral the gears where frozen. After about an hour the car then started…then to the dealership it went, where it is now. For the past week and ½ the dealership has had it and they can not find the problem. They have replaced (I think we are up to about 8 parts now) and it still is not fixed. Sometimes it will start and sometimes it will not. Spoke to the dealer today and they drove it yesterday and before they got out of the parking lot it died. The dealer told me it is not the CSP because when those go bad the car at least will wind up. Mine just does nothing. They have went to the Mercedes Tec. Support and they have no records of a similar situation. Any advise would be wonderful. Thank you in advance.
#672 of 1085 1998 Intrepid -- blower problems by 4ducks Aug 06, 2006 (4:08 am)
Recently, my Intrepid began blowing on high all the time. It even blows on high when you turn the a/c unit off. Any ideas? Maybe a relay or a resistor? Thanks!    In addition to the above, there is also a high pitch noise when driving. Another problem that started is that you have to jiggle the key in order to make to blower start (windows also don't work if blower doesn't come on). Any ideas???? Don't want to spend a fortune at a shop if there is something else I can try!   Replies to this message: user777 (Aug 06, 2006 5:53 am)
#673 of 1085 Re: 1998 Intrepid -- blower problems [4ducks] by user777 Aug 06, 2006 (5:53 am)
Replying to: 4ducks (Aug 06, 2006 4:08 am) i think the good bet is a bad blower switch or wiring to it. perhaps there are resistors in there. i don't know. can you get to the thing?   go to a pull-it place and get one. otherwise find out if one is available aftermarket.

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