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Maintenance & Repair Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy
1085 messages, Last post on Oct 29, 2009 at 11:41 AM
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Replying to: burdawg (Jun 19, 2006 7:26 am)  12 pulled the problem did not occur. In all circuits there was a healthy 12V with engine off and ignition in run position. In particular I probed the wires immidiately before and after the ignition swich as well. There was 12V before and after in all circuits. Initially I was even trying to turn the ignition on and off many times trying to produce a problem in the switch but the result remained always a healthy 12V on both sides of the switch. Then when I inserted the AC-HTR Fuse#12 the circuit after the switch immidiately crashed to 6V. The battery side of the switch remained at 12V. So I went to GM and bought an ignition switch. For just under $190. That is where I'm now. I can't built it in because I can't get the other switch out. It is retained with two torx-MALE-HEAD bolt that loolks like a T10 or T15 tip. And you just can't get to both of them with wise-grips. Also there is the upper plastic steering wheel shroud that has to come off too. But that is retained with two torx-MALE-HEAD bolts that is just like a T20 tip. So again nothing is going to happen until next weekend.
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Replying to: 99tahoe44 (Jun 24, 2006 7:53 pm) |
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i have a problem that is stumping me i have this car and intermitly the power would be loss to everything in the car resetting the clock and odometer locks dont work but when you stick the key back into the ignition everything comes back to life. also i have encountered a problem of every now and then i would drive the car about 8 miles and all of a sudden the car would just shut down like i turned off the ignition and turned back on again all the warning lites would lite up and i can start the car back up with no problem then it would not do it again for some time. any reasonable solutions will be greatly appreciated. checked all the ground and hot wires even checked the electrical side of the ignition switch all are good.
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Replying to: topflier (Jun 26, 2006 4:15 pm) bad ignition switch internals (have you got a lot of stuff on the keychain)? bad smart-key loose wires to the ignition switch main / ignition relay |
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Replying to: 99tahoe44 (Jun 24, 2006 7:53 pm) As for the rest of it, I couldn't figure out how to get the top shroud off without cutting the flange behind the key receptacle with an x-acto knife. Hope you have better luck there. Also, the white nylon two-wire switch that comes off the ignition switch you bought and goes on top of the tumbler mechanism has a tab you need to depress (on the top left) before you rotate it clockwise to get it out. This will make more sense once you get into it. Took it for a quick test drive and everything looked ok. Good luck!
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| I recently purchased a 2002 Mitsubishi Diamante, while driving the battery and brake indicator flicker on and off(same time), sometimes they stay on for a while, and sometimes seem to turn off when I hit a bump. I have had the car at the dealer twice and they have replaced the alternator twice, and replaced the brake pads, no change. They said everything is running fine, and I have not had any problems with the way the car drives, just the annoying lights. Any suggestions? | |
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Replying to: goose249 (Jun 27, 2006 7:04 pm) I always loved American Cars and this 99 Tahoe was always my dream. But it is definately going to be my last Chevy and perhaps even my last American car. America is a great country with lots of skilled people willing to work hard and do good work. But they are lead by narrow minded short sighted moron decision makers. GM stinks from the head. Sorry for the resulting loss of jobs. By the way thanks for pointing out the issue with the white two-wire switch. That saved me lots of time and possibly even the switch itself. I just kept telling myself to remember to turn it and I found the way it has to go. Quite tricky. Most of my problems arised from disconnecting the switch harness, turn signal harness from the main harness. Thanks for all of you contributing on the issue. And enjoy the ride... |
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Replying to: goose249 (Jun 27, 2006 7:04 pm) |
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| help please! my jimmy's rear hatch suddenly started unlocking itself when i shift into drive and sometimes reverse. it doesn't do it all the time, but i'll be driving down the freeway and all of a sudden it will fly open. thought of taking out the fuse, but i'm not sure what else i'll disconnect. any help? | |
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..I hope im in the right forum..I have a 96 old cutlass that starts everytime in the morning when its cool..then after 2/3 pm...i turn the key and nothing happens. Its been doing this for the last 2/3 summers. My mechanic replaced the ignition switch, and it stopped doing it for a while..and now its back to its old tricks again!! He put it on the computer, said it was fine..he even kept it one day and started it throught the day AND IT WORKED. Then when i get it home..well you get it. I'm thinking i cant be the only onethis has happened to..please..if you have ANY ideas..I'd love to hear them!! thanks! matpar
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