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Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy

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#659 of 1085 Re: Gremlins in a '99 Suburban [burdawg] by 99tahoe44 Jun 19, 2006 (9:41 pm)
Replying to: burdawg (Jun 19, 2006 7:26 am) Yes, every time the problem occurs there is approx. 6V in the relais operating circuit side measured at the fuses for the affected circuits. And sometimes the voltage drops to even approx. 4V. So yes, I suspect the ignition switch as well. By the way I called my local chevy dealer here in Torrance,CA and they have the switch on stock. It is $190. I won't have time until next weekend to do anything. But I will be sure at the car Saturday at daybeak testing the switch. By the way Burdawg thank you for following up with me on this issue. Your input was already very inspiring and so it helps a lot. By the way the ignition switch is retained by a screw that looks like a T6 inverted Torx. I have never seen anything like that before. I'm trying to get some socket for it by this weekend just in case.">
#660 of 1085 Re: Gremlins in a '99 Suburban [burdawg] by 99tahoe44 Jun 24, 2006 (7:53 pm)
Replying to: burdawg (Jun 19, 2006 7:26 am) Hi! So finally today was circuit testing day. Initially with the AC-HTR Fuse12 pulled the problem did not occur. In all circuits there was a healthy 12V with engine off and ignition in run position. In particular I probed the wires immidiately before and after the ignition swich as well. There was 12V before and after in all circuits. Initially I was even trying to turn the ignition on and off many times trying to produce a problem in the switch but the result remained always a healthy 12V on both sides of the switch. Then when I inserted the AC-HTR Fuse#12 the circuit after the switch immidiately crashed to 6V. The battery side of the switch remained at 12V. So I went to GM and bought an ignition switch. For just under $190. That is where I'm now. I can't built it in because I can't get the other switch out. It is retained with two torx-MALE-HEAD bolt that loolks like a T10 or T15 tip. And you just can't get to both of them with wise-grips. Also there is the upper plastic steering wheel shroud that has to come off too. But that is retained with two torx-MALE-HEAD bolts that is just like a T20 tip. So again nothing is going to happen until next weekend. Replies to this message: goose249 (Jun 25, 2006 6:06 am) goose249 (Jun 27, 2006 7:04 pm) 99tahoe44 (Jul 01, 2006 10:36 am) 99tahoe44 (Jul 01, 2006 12:43 pm)
#661 of 1085 Re: Gremlins in a '99 Suburban [99tahoe44] by goose249 Jun 25, 2006 (6:06 am)
Replying to: 99tahoe44 (Jun 24, 2006 7:53 pm) I'm on that same track, but not from such an extensive search as what you just did. Just in case, I located and cleaned all the grounds - still no fix. In talking to a few other mechanics, it sounds like they've had similar problems that got fixed when the ignition switch was replaced. They did warn me about the specialized socket - I'm thinking of trying the local NAPA. Good Luck!
#662 of 1085 2002 vw jetta electrical problem 1.8 by topflier Jun 26, 2006 (4:15 pm)
i have a problem that is stumping me i have this car and intermitly the power would be loss to everything in the car resetting the clock and odometer locks dont work but when you stick the key back into the ignition everything comes back to life. also i have encountered a problem of every now and then i would drive the car about 8 miles and all of a sudden the car would just shut down like i turned off the ignition and turned back on again all the warning lites would lite up and i can start the car back up with no problem then it would not do it again for some time. any reasonable solutions will be greatly appreciated. checked all the ground and hot wires even checked the electrical side of the ignition switch all are good. Replies to this message: user777 (Jun 26, 2006 4:37 pm)
#663 of 1085 Re: 2002 vw jetta electrical problem 1.8 [topflier] by user777 Jun 26, 2006 (4:37 pm)
Replying to: topflier (Jun 26, 2006 4:15 pm) guesses bad ignition switch internals (have you got a lot of stuff on the keychain)?   bad smart-key   loose wires to the ignition switch   main / ignition relay
#664 of 1085 Re: Gremlins in a '99 Suburban [99tahoe44] by goose249 Jun 27, 2006 (7:04 pm)
Replying to: 99tahoe44 (Jun 24, 2006 7:53 pm) I replaced the ignition switch tonight. It took a while to find the right tools. You'll need a E5 external torx socket and a "deep" E4 external torx socket. I had some trouble finding the deep E4 until the local CarQuest parts guy looked up specialized tools and found it in the section for GM ignition tools. Their local warehouse had one left.   As for the rest of it, I couldn't figure out how to get the top shroud off without cutting the flange behind the key receptacle with an x-acto knife. Hope you have better luck there. Also, the white nylon two-wire switch that comes off the ignition switch you bought and goes on top of the tumbler mechanism has a tab you need to depress (on the top left) before you rotate it clockwise to get it out. This will make more sense once you get into it.   Took it for a quick test drive and everything looked ok. Good luck! Replies to this message: 99tahoe44 (Jul 01, 2006 10:36 am) 99tahoe44 (Jul 01, 2006 12:43 pm)
#665 of 1085 Mitsubishi w/ wacky indicator lights by ame529 Jun 28, 2006 (1:33 pm)
I recently purchased a 2002 Mitsubishi Diamante, while driving the battery and brake indicator flicker on and off(same time), sometimes they stay on for a while, and sometimes seem to turn off when I hit a bump. I have had the car at the dealer twice and they have replaced the alternator twice, and replaced the brake pads, no change. They said everything is running fine, and I have not had any problems with the way the car drives, just the annoying lights. Any suggestions?
#666 of 1085 Re: Gremlins in a '99 Suburban [goose249] by 99tahoe44 Jul 01, 2006 (10:36 am)
Replying to: goose249 (Jun 27, 2006 7:04 pm) Yes, I did also replaced the ignition switch and now everything works like magic. Upon opening up and examination of the bad switch the contacts showed strong signs of burning. The old switch probably can not be repaired because it falls into a million pieces (springs, contacts) when you open it. I just wanted to make sure this was really the problem. Actually a shame on GM since all contacts were more or less affected. As I bought the E4 and E5 external torx at the Snap-On dealer the dealer new right away what I had on mind. "...Ignition Switch hey?..."-he asked laughing. So this problem must be quite common. Probably even a design flaw.   I always loved American Cars and this 99 Tahoe was always my dream. But it is definately going to be my last Chevy and perhaps even my last American car. America is a great country with lots of skilled people willing to work hard and do good work. But they are lead by narrow minded short sighted moron decision makers. GM stinks from the head. Sorry for the resulting loss of jobs.   By the way thanks for pointing out the issue with the white two-wire switch. That saved me lots of time and possibly even the switch itself. I just kept telling myself to remember to turn it and I found the way it has to go. Quite tricky. Most of my problems arised from disconnecting the switch harness, turn signal harness from the main harness.   Thanks for all of you contributing on the issue. And enjoy the ride...
#667 of 1085 Re: Gremlins in a '99 Suburban [goose249] by 99tahoe44 Jul 01, 2006 (12:43 pm)
Replying to: goose249 (Jun 27, 2006 7:04 pm) Also by the way: It is actually possible to remove the upper shroud without braking it. You have to remove the speedometer/radio/AC cover, you have to pull the height adjustment knob on the lower shroud to remove the lower shroud. Then when you just play enough with the upper shoud it will come off. Just make sure to completly tape off your speedometer so you don't scratch it. I ended up doing it actually twice. It works you just have to play with it. Never the less I just had to buy the lower shroud piece. Previously as I tested the ignition switch (forcing the shroud out of the way without removing it) it must have got slightly out of allignment. So it did not close snug. GM charged me $28 for the lower piece. They told me the upper piece is about the same.
#668 of 1085 1996 jimmy hatch prolems by nurseypoo1 Jul 12, 2006 (12:57 pm)
help please! my jimmy's rear hatch suddenly started unlocking itself when i shift into drive and sometimes reverse. it doesn't do it all the time, but i'll be driving down the freeway and all of a sudden it will fly open. thought of taking out the fuse, but i'm not sure what else i'll disconnect. any help?

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