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Maintenance & Repair Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy
1085 messages, Last post on Oct 29, 2009 at 11:41 AM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
| If some of the brake/tail/turn bulbs on the Intrigue are two-filament bulbs, it is likely that a socket is bad, causing the brake and turn circuits to become cross-connected. If one of the lamp assemblies has been damaged or had water in it, I would check there first. It is also possible that a ground connection is loose or broken. In this case, moving the wiring harness for the tail/brake lights may reveal the problem. The combination switch on the steering column could also be the problem but I believe this to be less likely than the above items. Good luck. | |
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I've upgraded the electric to a higher watt alternator with an electric voltage regulator. New battery. It was working great but all of a sudden when I turn on my stereo (an aftermarket CD player) if the car is at a low RPM, and then I turn on the lights or blinker or hit the breaks, the stereo shuts off. If I continue to drive at a higher rpm, it will turn back on after a few minutes. also - I thought it might be the voltage limiter on the instrument cluster. I had an extra one lying around. When I popped it in, the fuel and heating gauge failed to work. So then I put in the original limiter and STILL no functioning in the fuel and heating gauge.. WHAT DID I DO? The voltage gauge still works, speedometer, and all panel lights still work. Just those two items don't move at all. Thanks for any thoughts on this. |
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| A problem with the voltage limiter would effect only the fuel and temperature gauges (and oil pressure if you have an elec oil pressure gauge. I would look for a broken connection at the voltage limiter or open ground connection for the instrument cluster. The stereo problem seems to be unrelated to the instrument voltage limiter. Suggest that you check the system voltage; some stereos won't function below a certain threshold voltage - about 9.5 volts I believe. Recheck the voltage regulator and all of the associated ground connections. Good luck. | |
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1999 mazda B-2600 pickup (same as ford ranger) One day my ABS and check engine warning lights came on plus the speedometer doesn't start until I hit about 35 MPH and you feel a little surge in power when the speedo starts. Disconnecting battery took care of the check engine light for one day plus it has come on and off by it's own a couple times Help? |
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| As you have spent enough for no improvement with the dealer, you have earned an interview with the Lincoln District Service Office representative. There is a basic "Safety" issue with your problem and pushing the "Safety" issue onto the DSO rep could result in their having the problem fixed and even paying for half of your $800 expense to fix one of their prestige automobiles. After I communicated with my DSO, they paid 50% of the repairs to our 94 TC with 97,000 on it. Give it a shot and let's hope you make progress with them. | |
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I'm doing some work on my brother's 1977 Toyota Celica ST (20R engine, auto trans). I found that the backup lights come on in Neutral instead of Reverse. I imagine it's a faulty switch, but I don't know where the switch is. I took apart the console around the shifter and it's definitely not in there. I also looked on the trans itself and I didn't see anything that looks like it. My Haynes book shows it as a part that screws into the trans casing on a '78-81 Celica, but doesn't give an illustration for the '71-77 models. Anyone know where it is? -Andrew L |
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I'm in desperate need of some help regarding possible electrical problems with my fuel shut-off solenoid in a Dodge Ram 3500 Diesel. I'd be greatly appreciative if anyone could give me a place to start. This is the only problem holding me back from getting my truck repaired.
Full details are located here (I only need help with the fuel solenoid part): |
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Sorry this is so long: I have a 2000 Protege ES (automatic). I have had the car for almost 2 years now and it has been flawless...nothing but oil changes until now. I took a trip to Nashville, TN (from Raleigh, NC) and on the way back it was raining hard for about 2 hours straight. The rain let up and shortly after I had the cruise control, AC, rear defogger, radio, and headlights on. Occasionally my headlights got brighter for a few seconds and then back to normal. At the same time there was a slight surge (or hesitation?) in engine power. As I was almost back to Raleigh my battery light starting coming on, then going back off (and I felt the hesitation). I noticed this as I exited off of the highway onto the exit ramp. It was 3AM when I got in so I didn't do anything about it at the time. The next day I checked the belts and battery connections and everything looked fine. During the next week I made several short trips (non highway) and the problem did not re-occur. Since I am moving to Nashville next week I took the car in to get this checked out before I make the 8+ hour drive. When I explained the symptoms over the phone to the service department they suspected the alternator. I brought the car in to the dealership today (wed) and the battery light came on as I was exiting the highway to go to the dealership (again with hesitation). This is the first time I had the car up to highway speed since my trip last week. They checked the car and said the alternator was fine. He also said he didn't have authorization to replace parts unless he could diagnois what the problem was (still under warranty). He said to pick up the car and if it happened again to bring it back in immediately. I told him this was not acceptable since I am moving and making the long drive to TN next week, and I want the problem solved. He agreed to have a mechanic take it on the road tomorrow to try and replicate the problem. Does anyone have a clue as to what could be causing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. BTW, the car starts fine, so I don't think the battery is losing its charge (yet). I posted this at Protege problems forum yesterday. To update, the dealer drove the car for 40+ miles at various speeds (including highway) and they couldn't replicate the problem. They drove with the A/C and other power using accessories on. I HAVE to drive this car 500+ miles to Nashville, TN next week, as I am moving there next week. I feel like I am being set up for disaster. |
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| I replaced the alternator and battery in my 85 F250 (460 V-8, Manual Trans) about 18 months ago (regulator checked out OK.) Earlier this week I noticed the battery gauge showed no charging while running, but a slight discharge. Took the vehicle to Auto Zone, who checked out the battery, regulator and in-car check of the alternator. Battery OK, including under load. Regulator OK. Alternator provided about 12.5 Volts at 9 Amps, well under specs. As alternator was under guarantee, they gave me a new one, which was installed this morning. Alas, exactly the same symptoms. Did I mess up the connections for the Field/Armature lugs? Is there a fusible link somewhere that could be the problem? Any other suggestions? (I do have a Haynes manual, which does have a kinda-sorta wiring diagram.) | |
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Hi, I have a 1996 Mazda Millenia and the trunk and gas door opener on the door doesn't work. It just suddenly stopped. The trunk does open with the remote but in order to fill the gas I have to open the trunk, get out the car, and pop the trunk manually. I have done this a couple of times but it is rather annoying especially when raining. Does anyone have any suggestions? Also where would I find a wiring diagram for the car. Thanks |
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