Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Maintenance & Repair Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy
1085 messages, Last post on Oct 29, 2009 at 11:41 AM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
|
Host, The fuse as I recall, blew initially after I used the power lock switch(the one beside the driver). After the dealership changed those components that I mentioned before, the 40amp fuse got knocked out again AFTER I used either the power lock switch or the power window switch, I can't really remember which one. However, what I noticed is that the blown fuse occurred after I used these components...not during use. |
|
|
Mr. Shift_Right, Just replaced that 30A fuse(It was a 30A Fuse and not a 40A) this weekend. I exclusively used the power window and did not use the power door locks just to find out if the window's circuit is the one that's giving this problem. The power window unit worked for two days, however just this morning when I was about to open the driver side window, the power is gone again. Just to reiterate what I said before, this occured not during any operation of the windows but either during before or after using the windows. Many thanks for your help.... Yrmac |
|
|
|
| Hmm...so the power windows and door locks are on the same circuit? Do you know that for sure, for certain? That's a big fuse to blow, 30 amps. Since all items are functioning while the fuse is intact, I'd have to wonder if the problem is behind or in the fuse box itself. These things can be very difficult to track down. | |
|
Mr. Shiftright, You are right , this bug will probably be hard to track down and eventually will cost me more big bucks and headaches in the process. Yes, the power windows and power door locks are in the same circuit and sharing this 30amp fuse(I've checked it myself on the Chilton Manual). I will give your advice a try and check the fuse box itself, maybe this is the culprit to the problem. I will keep you posted. Thanks again for your help... |
|
| If they use solid state relays for the window motors I'd check them out. They can be real evil devices with sneaky problems. | |
|
|
|
Also, check to see that the harness hasn't become damaged with age where it goes through the door hinge area. Could be that the flexing of the harness is causing a short. Does the Camry use positive or negative logic on its locks and windows? On positive logic, the switches supply the voltage. On negative logic, the switches provide the ground. Negative logic is the one that can bite you as the voltage is always present, and a ground fault between the voltage source and the motor/solenoid will blow a really big fuse very quickly without operating the switch. Just a thought... Jim |
|
|
Jim, I am not sure if Toyota uses a positive logic or a negative logic but your theory might be also the answer to this problem. As I recall, this problem occured when the mentioned components are not in use and as you said, a ground fault might be causing this problem. Thanks, M. Avery |
|
|
|
|
Ah, yes, good thinking, but the question is WHERE is the ground fault? The door entry for the harness is a good place to look. |
|
| I have a 92 Ford Aerostar that currently has no working horn, or cruise control. Also, the airbag indicator light flashes a "32". I have been able to find that the FC "32" appears to be "Driver Side Airbag high resistance or open" message. These symptoms seem to indicate a single point failure for all three items. This appears to be a bad connection or module somewhere. Any one have any ideas? | |
|
if there are multiple issues, and fuses aren't blown, the most common cause is a bad ground connection. the mystical part in this is that while most of the ground connections are to a stud on a big piece of the car's metal someplace, lots of these stinkers are remotely located (at least, Ford likes to do stupid stuff like run grounds out to near where the load is.) it makes perfect sense from an electrical standpoint but none from a servicing standpoint. a wiring manual is a major league help in finding them. nowadays, however, there ARE a number of "general purpose" modules scattered around the place... the GEM in recent Fords controls stuff like the front and rear wipers, blower motor, etc.. and basically all that is really there is probably connection blocks and SCRs. danger - airbag warning. yes, always, drop the battery ground lead before hinking around with anything that might in any way be connected with an airbag system. just because. airbag stuff tends to be set alone and handled with greater care, since an airbag system is basically selected small explosives that stuff a punching bag in your face just before your face would knock the steering wheel off the column. if there are airbag problems and ANYthing else acting up at the same time, I bet on ground problems. find the common ground point to all the bad actors, take it apart, clean it up and replace bad crimp terminals if needed, reassemble with lots of internal/external toothed lockwashers and everything lightly coated with No-Ox-Id or grease, and try again. |
|
You are here:
Forums
Maintenance & Repair Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
