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Maintenance & Repair Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy
1085 messages, Last post on Oct 29, 2009 at 11:41 AM
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Replying to: jeni_a_m (Sep 14, 2009 11:37 am) |
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I have dashboard and tail lights that blow fuses at least 2-3 times per week. They both share the same fuse. The signal lights continue to work even when the fuse blows. What type of problem would cause this?
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Replying to: bbpar117 (Sep 15, 2009 8:08 am) But without that info, I'd suggest checking the taillight bulbs for proper operation. Brake lights turn on the high intensity filament in the bulb, headlight/running lights turn on the low intensity filament in the bulb.
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Replying to: kiawah (Sep 15, 2009 9:32 am) |
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Hi all, I own the Regal's twin, the Century, but there seems to be more activity here than over at the Century forum. My Century has some issues that you may know how to resolve. The twin cooling fans will not kick on, I checked the battery because of the low voltage safety feature, had a dead cell in a <2 yr old battery, replaced, but still no fans. I can jump straight off the positive to the white fan on the right side, the second fan will not kick on even with a hot feed. See next posting for the rest.
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The A/C will not engage, the odometer and (PRNDL) will not display, intermittent failure of the "lock" feature on the door and via remote keyless access. is there a relay, ground or inline fuse between the power supply and fuse panel for these lines that I should be looking for? Plan on pulling the Cluster to look for a bad relay/resistor/fuse/bulb, but there seems to be a bigger issue. See next posting for the rest. |
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| no current on either side of the 10 Amp fuse located at Rox 4 & 5 of Column A on the fuse panel( Crank Signal, Cluster, BCM), same with the fuse located at Row 5&6 of Column A ( Heated Mirror) | |
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Replying to: 2000buickrehab (Sep 29, 2009 9:27 am) You can check out the fan motors themselves, by applying 12volts directly to the motor to verify that the fan motor itself is good. Before doing that, I always (with all power off), spin the fan blade manually to make sure it's not bound up. Check also the fuse to the fans. Assuming the fans work and the fuse is okay, then you know the problem is in the control circuitry as opposed to the fan motor. The control circuitry differs obviously by mfg, year, make, model. I've seen a couple different logic being used on fans: - two fans, one is turned on by high engine radiator temperature, the 2nd fan turned on when the a/c is turned on. Computer logic turns on a relay, which turns on a fan. - two fans, both turned on low speed based on high engine radiator temperature (they do this via a relay, where the fans are wired in series, hence they run at half speed), and when the a/c is turned on the relay switches and the fans are wired in parrallel, hence both running at full speed. - one fan, controlled by logic and relay, I'm sure there are other valid combinations of circuit control. You would probably have a pretty big fuse (like 20/30/40 amps) for the fans, find that in your owners manual and make sure that isn't blown. Then check to see if the fans will work with direct power given to them. Then at that point, look for the fan relay(s).
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Replying to: 2000buickrehab (Sep 29, 2009 9:43 am) Again, I don't have any electrical schematics for your vehicle, which you may want to locate/buy/subscribe to. I'll give you some generic things that I would look for: - check first that you have a good battery, should be putting out 13-14 volts, have good solid, no corrosion connections to the wiring. - Many vehicles will have a 'fusible link', or big chunk of metal that acts like a fuse, generally rated around 100 - 150 Amps.Think of this as the fuse to the main set of fuses. - There are some fused circuits, which are supplied power all of the time from the battery. Thinks like security system, lights, power door lock opener, etc. There could also be relays in this circuitry, to handle higher current levels. - There are some other fused circuits, which are only supplied power when the key is in the ignition and turned on. There could also be relays in this circuitry, to handle higher current levels (for instance, the key in the ignition turns on the relay, the higher current relay points provide the power to those fused circuits). Things like radios, heaters, a/c, defroster windows, etc When you have a number of items that are showing symptoms of electrical failure, start with your basic main battery power feeds, and verify that they are working.
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Replying to: kiawah (Sep 29, 2009 9:44 am)
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