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Maintenance & Repair Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy
1085 messages, Last post on Oct 29, 2009 at 11:41 AM
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Hi Guys...I have a good one here that I'm hoping you can figure out for me. I have a 1996 Jimmy that I put an electric over hydraulic plow on. I put a second battery in it to help with the draw. I used it all last winter and when everything was running (lights, defroster, rear defroster, rear wiper, front wipers...when I actuated the plow...it would draw down to 9 volts at an idle to 1000 rpm. I decided to put on a larger output alternator for this coming winter and bought a 155 amp unit and also the recommended beefier wiring kit with a 175 amp fuse in it. I installed everything and ran the vehicle with everything going and actuated the plow several times. It still drew down to 10 volts but recovered much quicker. I shut it off and since it's just used for plowing, I didn't start it again for a week or so. Recently, I started her up and immediately noticed that the voltmeter was registering about 9.5 volts with no load on anything. I called Napa and had them ship another one. I took my new one in and the guy bench tested it and said it was good. He also tested the new one they got for a replacement and found it to be bad so he ordered a third one. I installed this one and it worked fine. I started it up the next 3 days in a row and it was charging just fine...but the 4th day, it did the same thing. When I started it up, it wasn't charging. Something happened to both alternators between the time I shut off the vehicle and the alternator was charging...to the next time I started it and it wasn't. I believe I should have 12 volts at the charge cable end at the alternator at all times...I do. Also, the "L" terminal coming out of the harness at the alternator should have 12 volts when the ignition is in the RUN or START position...I can't confirm that. I don't have a test meter...just a 12 volt trouble light and I'm not sure I'm making a good connection to that small pin but I had these conditions before I installed the second alternator and it worked for 4 days. I don't understand what has happened...why the new alternator will work for a while and then just stop working while the engine isn't even running. I just replaced the original 105 amp alternator with a higher output one...and I installed the wire upgrade kit that goes with it. Both of the alternators have "failed" since doing the changeover. I have rechecked my ground and all wiring. Something is happening after running and then turning off the vehicle...with the first one it was the second time I started it up and it just wasn't charging. The second alternator worked for 4 start-ups and on the fifth...just wasn't charging. Neither one of them "quit" AFTER starting the engine. What does that "L" pin go to? Does it have something to do with "exciting" the regulator? I think I read that it could have a resistor in the line somewhere. What does it look like, where is it located, and how do I test it? Can you enlighten and help me...PLEASE?  Thanks, |
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I took my nearly 150,000 mile car to this terrible mechanic because the car kept dying, no warning it would just die. Got a new battery and a new alternator but no luck. They said it must be electrical. So after 2 days of them "fixing" it, they said it was a fog light that was bad, they unplugged it, and I was good to go. Well, it runs but now I have the most random issues. First the remote didn't work, turns out they didn't plug back in the wires in the trunk, so i fixed that. Now the air conditioner will blow on full for awhile, then self adjust to low and go back in forth, although the fan meter says it's on high the entire time. When it's 103 out, I really need it to work. The other issue is the radio will work, then the front speakers will cut out and then come back on...over and over. PLEASE HELP!!!! I won't take my car back to that mechanic and I'm being quoted $100 for anyone to even look at it.
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Replying to: jeni_a_m (Sep 14, 2009 11:18 am) The hardest problems to find are randomly intermittent ones. Your radio and a/c problems sound like they occur fairly regularly, so they should be easy for a good electrical guy to zero right in on the problem. If the fog lights were factory, hard to imagine they would create some sort of electrical problem that was causing your vehicle to die. If someone else installed them aftermarket, then no telling what they did to the wiring to get power.
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Replying to: kiawah (Sep 14, 2009 11:28 am) They are factory lights, but for some reason the light case will hold water. I guess there is a crack or something, but I can't see it. I'm trying to keep the car going for at least another year, but I was just told the radiator has a hairline crack and the cad. converter is going out. I do the regular maintance, and I know it's a good car, I guess the one I bought just isn't wanting to hold out.
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Replying to: jeni_a_m (Sep 14, 2009 11:37 am) |
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I have dashboard and tail lights that blow fuses at least 2-3 times per week. They both share the same fuse. The signal lights continue to work even when the fuse blows. What type of problem would cause this?
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Replying to: bbpar117 (Sep 15, 2009 8:08 am) But without that info, I'd suggest checking the taillight bulbs for proper operation. Brake lights turn on the high intensity filament in the bulb, headlight/running lights turn on the low intensity filament in the bulb.
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Replying to: kiawah (Sep 15, 2009 9:32 am) |
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Hi all, I own the Regal's twin, the Century, but there seems to be more activity here than over at the Century forum. My Century has some issues that you may know how to resolve. The twin cooling fans will not kick on, I checked the battery because of the low voltage safety feature, had a dead cell in a <2 yr old battery, replaced, but still no fans. I can jump straight off the positive to the white fan on the right side, the second fan will not kick on even with a hot feed. See next posting for the rest.
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