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Maintenance & Repair Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy
1085 messages, Last post on Oct 29, 2009 at 11:41 AM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
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Replying to: anita3 (Jun 21, 2009 11:06 am) Check for spark. How did you get rid of all of that bad gas? Any rust on the main crank bearings?
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Replying to: kiawah (Jun 21, 2009 11:39 am) compression should be good .. is all new and torqued what about the sentry key imobilizer module in the ignition switch ? its a round ring module.. would that have something to do with it ?
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ok will re check everything over again.... thank you for your quick response to my question 
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Replying to: anita3 (Jun 21, 2009 12:58 pm)
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Replying to: anita3 (Jun 22, 2009 5:45 am) Are you getting sparking at each of the spark plugs.......? What is the fuel pressure...............? Are the plugs wet with fuel when you take them out of the head? And just to clairfy, when you say it sounds like it wants to turn over, but doesn't...do you mean that the starter is engaged, the starter is turning the crankshaft of the engine, but it is not starting to run....correct?
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Replying to: kiawah (Jun 22, 2009 7:14 am) 
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Replying to: anita3 (Jul 03, 2009 2:19 pm) If this was what was actually said - it's BS. What, you can't drive a car from California to Ohio? And, by 2000, all cars probably met the California emission standards. |
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Hi Guys...I have a good one here that I'm hoping you can figure out for me. I have a 1996 Jimmy that I put an electric over hydraulic plow on. I put a second battery in it to help with the draw. I used it all last winter and when everything was running (lights, defroster, rear defroster, rear wiper, front wipers...when I actuated the plow...it would draw down to 9 volts at an idle to 1000 rpm. I decided to put on a larger output alternator for this coming winter and bought a 155 amp unit and also the recommended beefier wiring kit with a 175 amp fuse in it. I installed everything and ran the vehicle with everything going and actuated the plow several times. It still drew down to 10 volts but recovered much quicker. I shut it off and since it's just used for plowing, I didn't start it again for a week or so. Recently, I started her up and immediately noticed that the voltmeter was registering about 9.5 volts with no load on anything. I called Napa and had them ship another one. I took my new one in and the guy bench tested it and said it was good. He also tested the new one they got for a replacement and found it to be bad so he ordered a third one. I installed this one and it worked fine. I started it up the next 3 days in a row and it was charging just fine...but the 4th day, it did the same thing. When I started it up, it wasn't charging. Something happened to both alternators between the time I shut off the vehicle and the alternator was charging...to the next time I started it and it wasn't. I believe I should have 12 volts at the charge cable end at the alternator at all times...I do. Also, the "L" terminal coming out of the harness at the alternator should have 12 volts when the ignition is in the RUN or START position...I can't confirm that. I don't have a test meter...just a 12 volt trouble light and I'm not sure I'm making a good connection to that small pin but I had these conditions before I installed the second alternator and it worked for 4 days. I don't understand what has happened...why the new alternator will work for a while and then just stop working while the engine isn't even running. I just replaced the original 105 amp alternator with a higher output one...and I installed the wire upgrade kit that goes with it. Both of the alternators have "failed" since doing the changeover. I have rechecked my ground and all wiring. Something is happening after running and then turning off the vehicle...with the first one it was the second time I started it up and it just wasn't charging. The second alternator worked for 4 start-ups and on the fifth...just wasn't charging. Neither one of them "quit" AFTER starting the engine. What does that "L" pin go to? Does it have something to do with "exciting" the regulator? I think I read that it could have a resistor in the line somewhere. What does it look like, where is it located, and how do I test it? Can you enlighten and help me...PLEASE?  Thanks, |
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