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Maintenance & Repair Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy
1085 messages, Last post on Oct 29, 2009 at 11:41 AM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
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Replying to: oregonboy (Sep 19, 2008 2:26 pm) Another issue is electrical fire and the liabilities that go with that. So the dealer is playing it safe by repairing the entire subharness, from one connector to the next. This is no doubt a tedious job in itself and I would imagine the harness is not cheap and must be special ordered. You can shop it around but be careful what you wish for, you may get it. |
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| HAVE AN 01 CREW CAB TRUCK 6.0 ENGINE IT MISSES AND STALLS AND IS HARD TO START WHEN IT DOES THIS (sorry about the caps) the temp guage goes crazy from 0 to 260 the truck has never over heated have put a new ignition switch have put in new crank and cam sensor it still won't run and keeps going dead. It has new wires and plugs and we put a new fuel pump in it in March of this year so I don't think it is that. Please hope someone can give me some help have had it on a scanner and it shows no codes that will not help thanks again sam 110 | |
2000 Nissan Quest . My driver side headlight isn't working. IT'S NOT THE LAMP/BULB. I've checked the underhood relays and all the fuses. The high beams work, but I've noticed that when I move the switch stem around, there's a crackling sound coming from behind the CD changer (near the floorboard behind the middle of the dash). Anybody familiar with this? Is it more likely the high beam switch or whatever's making the noise in the dash? Thanks!!
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Replying to: email4kh (Oct 22, 2008 1:26 pm) You might try www.nissanhelp.com, sometimes they have downloadable manuals. If you can find a set of electrical schematics in electronic format, I'll help you with the trouble shooting if you need/want.
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Replying to: kiawah (Oct 23, 2008 4:10 am) You should have everything you need to isolate and fix your problem. |
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I have had problems with the interior lights flashing, then I couldn't turn them off, so I took out all the bulbs so my battery wouldn't be drained. Yesterday I was driving and all of a sudden lost power, including my steering. I coasted to the side of the road. My headlights and dashboard still worked. (I do have plenty of gas in tank.) I waited a minute or so, then restarted the car. I drove it home but now I don't know what to do. Why would the car lose power while driving? This is the worst piece of crap car I have ever owned!  
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Replying to: grandmascar (Nov 09, 2008 2:16 pm) But, no idea if this your problem. Oh, and a battery cable that failed will also shut the car down. |
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Replying to: grandmascar (Nov 09, 2008 2:16 pm) |
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| The problem I have is a battery drain. First the DRL stopped working, narrowed that down to the diode under the dash (removed diode, jumped the terminals with a fuse). I disconnected the negative battery cable and clipped a test light to the cable and put the pointed end on the neg battery terminal making sure no contact to the cable and battery directly except through the test light, viola I had light that fluctuated from dim to off, quickly, in no appearant rhythm. Next I kept hearing the remote function activation module clicking. When fuse 19 was removed the clicking stopped and the light went out, so I removed the RFAM, no change. The fuse controls the radio/battery as per the fuse cover. Everything works fine, door locks, windows, seats, mirrors, radio, cd player (when fuse is in place), dome lights, head lights, A/C, heater blower motor. Any ideas what would cause a low level "short" that won't blow the fuse but drain the battery down? any help is appreciated. P.S. the fuse is a 15 amp rated fuse which is what called for in that socket. Thanks. | |
Ok, so I just gifted myself a swank new Z2. Was wondering if I need to buy any expensive accessories to protect it? You know like a leather pouch or plastic screen shield.
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