- #1013 of 1085
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Re: 98 FORD ESCORT Engine stalls when break is pressed [satkins2252]
by kiawah
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Aug 13, 2008 (7:57 pm)
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Replying to: satkins2252 (Aug 13, 2008 3:28 pm)
Do you have a digital voltmeter you can put on the battery to understand how much voltage it is putting out? You can pick one up relatively cheaply at Radio Shack or even some auto parts chains, and you should have approx 13.5-14.0 volts.
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- #1014 of 1085
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Re: 98 FORD ESCORT Engine stalls when break is pressed [kiawah]
by bolivar
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Aug 13, 2008 (10:06 pm)
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Replying to: kiawah (Aug 13, 2008 7:57 pm)
If the engine is not running and the alternator is not charging the battery, a nicely charged battery will read 12.6 volts.
With the motor running and alternator correctly charging the battery, you should see something like 13 to 15 volts.
Back to your problem. If you incorrectly connected the jumper cables, you might have done all kind of things in addition to harming the alternator.
You might have also melted a fusible link somewhere close to the battery. Or burned up who knows what computer - more than one if your car has more than one.
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- #1015 of 1085
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by satkins2252
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Aug 14, 2008 (9:36 am)
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Does anyone know where this fuseable link might be located. It's a 98 Ford Escort. I've looked all around the battery. I was told it looks like a giant fuse with a clear cover.
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- #1016 of 1085
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Re: Engine cuts out when headlights turned on [Mr_Shiftright]
by jmaxe
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Aug 14, 2008 (9:38 am)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Aug 11, 2008 11:35 am)
Thanks it was the battery, a dead cell they said even though only two years into an 84-month battery. I only seem to get about two+ years out of a battery in this Tx heat regardless of what battery I buy.
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- #1017 of 1085
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Re: Engine cuts out when headlights turned on [jmaxe]
by burdawg
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Aug 14, 2008 (12:48 pm)
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Replying to: jmaxe (Aug 14, 2008 9:38 am)
That's standard for lead acid liquid batteries. It's the same in Arizona if not worse. The heat is really hard on them. You could go to a gel battery, they do better in the heat, but with the initial cost being 2 x 3 times a standard lead acid battery you don't really save any money. My solution is not to spend a lot of money on them, buy the 30 month batteries at Walmart or Costco. Spend a little money on a simple battery load tester and test it from time to time to monitor it's condition. You'll know about when it's ready to be replaced by the test results.
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- #1018 of 1085
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Re: [satkins2252]
by kiawah
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Aug 14, 2008 (3:54 pm)
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Replying to: satkins2252 (Aug 14, 2008 9:36 am)
I don't know where it is for an Escort, but follow the leads from the + Battery. You'll find a large thick wire going down to the starter, but at some point you'll find a wire which feeds the main power buss of the car. Would be protected some how, perhaps in a black plastic case.
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- #1019 of 1085
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Re: Battery Light Problem then came the rest.. [0patience]
by ashtrizz
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Aug 16, 2008 (7:32 pm)
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Replying to: 0patience (Jul 25, 2008 8:03 pm)
I just want to say thank you all for your ideas and help  I guess it ended up being a wire that was hanging down and when I would go over bumps it was rubbing on something that made it hot and melted it creating the short! So thanks ev1!!
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- #1020 of 1085
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HELP!!! 2001 chrysler voyager windows and door locks
by pat13151
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Aug 19, 2008 (5:44 pm)
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I have a 2001 Chrysler Voyager. 6 months ago my drivers side window started working slow then quit. Tried a new master switch it didn't work the drivers window either. Spent 100.00 to have it diagnosed and was told it was the motor. Couldn't afford a new one so drove with the window up argggg!!!!!! Recently the power door locks started working intermittently and now the rear vent windows and passenger window too. Was told it could be the power window relay but I don't know where it's hidden. I'm on a fixed income and have very little money add to that the fact that I'm a woman and you can see the problem. Some mechanics will tell you anything and take your money figuring you're a woman and won't know any better so it's hard to find one you can trust. Does anyone know where the window relay is hidden? it's not in the fuse box under the hood. Also could it be a short? Help!!! I'm getting ready to beat my head against the wall...lol 
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- #1021 of 1085
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Re: HELP!!! 2001 chrysler voyager windows and door locks [pat13151]
by luckydogg
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Aug 19, 2008 (8:14 pm)
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Replying to: pat13151 (Aug 19, 2008 5:44 pm)
I had the same problem with my park ave. I went through everything, fuses, door module, window motors, etc. It ended up being a pin hole in a electrical wire that had finally rusted through..... In the Park Ave, the wire was under the windshield washer fluid container.. The wire was not in a harness. It just ran along the fender wall. Maybe this will help????
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- #1022 of 1085
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Re: HELP!!! 2001 chrysler voyager windows and door locks [luckydogg]
by pat13151
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Aug 22, 2008 (4:43 am)
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Replying to: luckydogg (Aug 19, 2008 8:14 pm)
update! went to an auto repair shop supposed to specialize in electrical problems with a BBB listing. The mechanic I talked to could not grasp the fact that when the passenger window doesn't work neither do the auto door locks (they lock when you hit a certain speed), the door lock button or the vent windows and the door ajar buzzer. When one works they all work. He started going on about how he could replace both window motors and the vent motors and that the locks would be another repair. He insisted it couldn't be a short or bad wire because none of my fuses were blown and insisted it couldn't be the window relay (wherever they hid that). He treated me like I was an idiot for thinking they could all be connected somehow. When the window works it works fine and so do the vents etc, If the motors were bad then I don't see how they could work fine sometimes and not others.  this is me screaming
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