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Maintenance & Repair Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy
1085 messages, Last post on Oct 29, 2009 at 11:41 AM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
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Hey first I want to let all you guys know I have worked in maintenance the past year. What I've learned in the past year is ALL I know about maintenance. It's general maintenance so I dont know all of the technical car terms. I appreciate any help you can give me also. I will try to be as descriptive as possible. I killed my battery by leaving my lights on overnight. When I attempted to jump my car from my girlfriend's car battery I accidently switched the cables and connected them in reverse. I successfully started the car (by connecting the cables correctly). When I removed the cables from the battery the car stalled immediately. I was told by several people to replace my alternator. I replaced my alternator. After replacing the alternator and jumping the car again the car does not stall after removing the cables but idles very low. The problem now is that when I press the break pedal to put it into gear the car stalls. I did not change anything except the negative battery terminal. I replaced it because it was rusted and broke off during the alternator changing process. The grounding block and negative cable are both connected to the new main terminal connection of the negative battery terminal. I made sure to connect the electrical wires securely to the new alternator also. I should also add that I took my battery to both Advanced Auto and Autozone to be tested. Advanced Auto's machine did not say bad but said "replace battery" indicating to me that the battery is bad. Autozone's said "good battery". I was ready to replace the battery until I saw that. I would prefer to save money if it is not the battery. Once again I appreciate any advice given.
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Replying to: satkins2252 (Aug 13, 2008 3:28 pm)
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Replying to: kiawah (Aug 13, 2008 7:57 pm) With the motor running and alternator correctly charging the battery, you should see something like 13 to 15 volts. Back to your problem. If you incorrectly connected the jumper cables, you might have done all kind of things in addition to harming the alternator. You might have also melted a fusible link somewhere close to the battery. Or burned up who knows what computer - more than one if your car has more than one. |
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Does anyone know where this fuseable link might be located. It's a 98 Ford Escort. I've looked all around the battery. I was told it looks like a giant fuse with a clear cover.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Aug 11, 2008 11:35 am)
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Replying to: jmaxe (Aug 14, 2008 9:38 am) |
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Replying to: satkins2252 (Aug 14, 2008 9:36 am) |
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Replying to: 0patience (Jul 25, 2008 8:03 pm)  I guess it ended up being a wire that was hanging down and when I would go over bumps it was rubbing on something that made it hot and melted it creating the short! So thanks ev1!!
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I have a 2001 Chrysler Voyager. 6 months ago my drivers side window started working slow then quit. Tried a new master switch it didn't work the drivers window either. Spent 100.00 to have it diagnosed and was told it was the motor. Couldn't afford a new one so drove with the window up argggg!!!!!! Recently the power door locks started working intermittently and now the rear vent windows and passenger window too. Was told it could be the power window relay but I don't know where it's hidden. I'm on a fixed income and have very little money add to that the fact that I'm a woman and you can see the problem. Some mechanics will tell you anything and take your money figuring you're a woman and won't know any better so it's hard to find one you can trust. Does anyone know where the window relay is hidden? it's not in the fuse box under the hood. Also could it be a short? Help!!! I'm getting ready to beat my head against the wall...lol 
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Replying to: pat13151 (Aug 19, 2008 5:44 pm)
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