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Maintenance & Repair Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy
1085 messages, Last post on Oct 29, 2009 at 11:41 AM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
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Replying to: kiawah (Jul 22, 2008 5:01 am) |
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Replying to: ashtrizz (Jul 22, 2008 8:09 am) 
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Replying to: ashtrizz (Jul 22, 2008 8:09 am) You might be better off taking it to a Chrysler dealer for repair. If your mechanic has truly gotten a good battery in this car, cleaned the battery cables and checked for them being eaten up with corrision, I think you have an electrical problem that he has no idea how to diagnois. |
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Replying to: ashtrizz (Jul 22, 2008 8:09 am) That's because the alternator isn't charging. Jumping the battery let it charge up, then when you drove it, it used up that charge. That is a clear symptom of what happens when the charging system is not working. Any 1st year apprentice would pick that up. I have just heard back from the mechanic and he said the battery is fine and now he thinks that it could be something to do with the ignition switch relays also. He THINKS??? There shouldn't be any thinking in this diagnosis. It is clear that the charging system isn't working. He should start with determining what the alternator is actually putting out at the alternator and then to the battery. If the alternator is putting out charge voltage (around 13.5V) at the alternator and it isn't getting that at the battery, then there is a wiring problem. I'm going to agree with Mr. Shiftright and bolivar. It is clear your "mechanic" doesn't have a full grasp of how the starting and charging system on your vehicle works, which is a shame, cause it is pretty basic. By the way, did your "mechanic" happen to hook up a scanner to your vehicle to see what the PCM (computer) was reading your charging system at? I didn't think so. The reason for that question is, your PCM regulates the alternator. No signal from the PCM, no charging. My best guess is either the fusible link at the battery is blown/broken, Fuse T in the Power Distribution center is blown or the Field wire to the alternator is broken. If all 3 of those are intact and have battery voltage to them, then the signal from the PCM is the problem.
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I can not figure out why my truck is not charging.
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Replying to: thepopeson (Jul 30, 2008 4:40 pm) Any auto parts chain will check both your alternator and battery under load, a free test. (autozone, pepboys, etc). |
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| My 04 Accord was dead this morning (1 yr old battery) and I mean dead, no panel lights, starter click...nothing. So I jumped it and started off to work. I noticed that whenever I turned on the headlights the engine seemed to cut out for just an instant. The car actually bucked a little as well. Radio or a/c did not produce a similar effect. Where do I start looking for the problem? | |
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Replying to: jmaxe (Aug 11, 2008 10:58 am) - You could have a bad battery - You could have a bad alternator - You could have loose and/or corroded cable connections - You could have left something on (or something is defective which didn't turn itself off), which drained down your battery to nothing - Some combination of the above. The lights draw substantially more current than the other items. I suspect you have a VERY bad battery, or a couple diodes in your alternator are out and it's not able to produce enough current to charge up your battery or drive the lights. |
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Replying to: jmaxe (Aug 11, 2008 10:58 am) You should have the battery charged, otherwise you might overstress your alternator and then you'll have TWO problems.
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Hey first I want to let all you guys know I have worked in maintenance the past year. What I've learned in the past year is ALL I know about maintenance. It's general maintenance so I dont know all of the technical car terms. I appreciate any help you can give me also. I will try to be as descriptive as possible. I killed my battery by leaving my lights on overnight. When I attempted to jump my car from my girlfriend's car battery I accidently switched the cables and connected them in reverse. I successfully started the car (by connecting the cables correctly). When I removed the cables from the battery the car stalled immediately. I was told by several people to replace my alternator. I replaced my alternator. After replacing the alternator and jumping the car again the car does not stall after removing the cables but idles very low. The problem now is that when I press the break pedal to put it into gear the car stalls. I did not change anything except the negative battery terminal. I replaced it because it was rusted and broke off during the alternator changing process. The grounding block and negative cable are both connected to the new main terminal connection of the negative battery terminal. I made sure to connect the electrical wires securely to the new alternator also. I should also add that I took my battery to both Advanced Auto and Autozone to be tested. Advanced Auto's machine did not say bad but said "replace battery" indicating to me that the battery is bad. Autozone's said "good battery". I was ready to replace the battery until I saw that. I would prefer to save money if it is not the battery. Once again I appreciate any advice given.
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