Last post on Jul 23, 2013 at 1:03 PM
You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback
What is this discussion about?
Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Wagon
#8647 of 8657 Re: 2002 Outback LL Bean Engine Replacement [wired1]
Jun 24, 2013 (8:13 am)
My wife's '03 Forester needed a head gasket a few years ago. I called a few local dealers and I think it was about $1600. It's still running great. Her mother has it now and she drives between Maryland and Mass 5-6 times a year, no problem.
I vaguely remember seeing a number of people here with late '90s - early '00s Subarus needing a head gasket replacement around 100k. I don't remember anyone saying they needed to do it twice, but search for yourself.
#8648 of 8657 Re: 2002 Outback LL Bean Engine Replacement [cabriggs]
Jun 24, 2013 (9:16 am)
Definitely get the head gaskets replaced but shop around for a better price.
#8649 of 8657 1998 2.5l subaru outback legacy limited
Jul 02, 2013 (7:03 pm)
i have a 1998 2.5l subaru outback legacy limited edition, and ive been having problems with it starting in cold temps 40 degrees to 60 degrees, but when the temp is warm., it starts right up no problem! idles right around 1 grand with no fluctuation. just replaced battery and wires, alternator,ERG valve, radiator coolant, oil/oil filter, and ignition, none of that seemed to work. im thinking maybe that the starter becomes frozen and wont engage in cold weather, because all the electronics works when i turn the key but i hear no "click"... hopping someone would have some insight for me, its driving me crazy!! want to get it running like gem before pow season comes around!
#8650 of 8657 Re: 1998 2.5l subaru outback legacy limited [subi808]
Jul 03, 2013 (10:39 am)
So, the car will not do anything in terms of even trying to start? It is possible that the starter solenoid is the issue, but you could likely confirm that by using a hammer (or similar) to tap on the side of the solenoid while someone is actively trying to start. If the starter engages and it fires up, then that's your problem.
Another possibility is that you don't have a tight connection on your negative ground terminal (or don't have a good ground between your engine block and car's body). That generation of Outback used a bracket to which the negative battery cable connects. That bracket is held in place by one of the starter bolts. If that connection (at the starter bolt) is dirty or even slightly loose, you can get symptoms of a bad ground at high draw levels. Your starter failing to engage is one such symptom. I would be surprised if this situation caused an "all or nothing," meaning that the lack of even a 'click' makes me uncertain that this issue is what you are experiencing. It is worthwhile checking out, though (given ease of inspection and lack of expense).
#8651 of 8657 Re: Locked back hatch door [scampy1]
Jul 09, 2013 (8:36 am)
My 99 Outback has the same problem. I'll have to try the WD40 before I go replacing the lock. Thanks for already getting that info!
#8652 of 8657 Slow speed turns
Jul 11, 2013 (9:44 am)
This may have been covered earlier but my 2006 Baja (mechanically the same as an Outback) has developed a jerkiness in slow speed turns (could be called crabbing?). The vehicle has an automatic transmission and all 4 tires match with good tread. I have owned the Baja for 2 years, it has 62K miles, and this is a new situation. What could be causing this jerkiness?
#8653 of 8657 Re: Slow speed turns [bajaed]
Jul 16, 2013 (5:58 pm)
What you describe sure sounds as if the AWD is trying to 'kick in' while you are turning sharp.
During a sharp turn, the wheels on the OUTSIDE of spin faster than the wheels on the INSIDE of the turn. If the AWD system does not allow for this difference in speed, the vehicle would feel as if it was jerking, crabbing or trying to 'step' around the corner.
If this situation is not corrected, it may end up actually BREAKING drive-components (twisting an axle or driveshaft, busting a CV-joint....etc)
#8654 of 8657 96 Legacy L Wagon AWD
Jul 22, 2013 (8:24 pm)
When I turn right, there is a slight grinding sound. Sometimes it feels as though there is a "catch" or almost a jerking as though there is an effort to change gears but it does not need to with the slow speed of the turn.
Have taken it to a shop who was to check it out but did not and charged $60 for transmission fluid. Today at a different shop, the owner seemed to know about AWD, and was saying that the "transfer case" is not working properly. Says that there are lots of clutches in the transfer case and that they are not functioning properly as the lubricant in there is either low or the wrong kind. He also says that the shaft boot is split, but that is no big deal. Said that the transmission fluid is very old and dirty and needs to be replaces asap, but we paid for this about 2 months ago.
Please read and respond.
Anyone have an idea or an opinion on this?
#8655 of 8657 Re: 96 Legacy L Wagon AWD [subl]
Jul 23, 2013 (9:09 am)
Hard to say from reading this. The second shop owner certainly inspires more confidence. If you are having a center differential issue (no transfer case on this car, which is a unit that allows one to switch gear ratios from a high range to a low range), which does use many clutches as this owner indicated, that's big bucks to replace.
That said, you say this only happens when turning right (as in the direction)? If that's the case, and the CV boot is split on that axle, I'd be more inclined to suspect the CV joint is failing than a differential issue. If your center differential is binding, you feel that. It is significant in its feel, and is difficult to mistake. With the CV joint, it makes noise and sometimes catches when turning that direction at first. As it gets worse, it can start making noise and catching at other times, and it eventually culminates in a broken joint.
As for the dirty fluid, how could someone (like me) make a reasonable determination from afar? Either the first shop didn't change the oil, or the second shop is mis-interpreting. Last summer, my local dealer told me that my transmission's fluid needed changing when I took the car in for other issues. Of course, what the dealer didn't know is that I had changed the fluid (mine is a manual transmission) less than a month prior. I don't think they actually checked it; they just looked at the mileage, and went fishing based on an assumption.
Good luck to you!
#8656 of 8657 Re: 96 Legacy L Wagon AWD [subl]
Jul 23, 2013 (1:03 pm)
When you say "shaft boot is split"..... at first I ready this as the "shift boot" which is not a big deal.
However, if *any* of your driveshaft boots are split, it is possible that the contained CV joint has lost its lubrication and may be causing the sensation you are complaining about.
A bad CV joint may make noise (or not) and may 'catch' on each revolution. If the torn boot is on OUTSIDE of a front driveshaft, then the 'catch' could easily be exaggerated when the steering-wheel is turned sharply in one direction.