Last post on Jul 23, 2013 at 1:03 PM
You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback
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Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Wagon
#8046 of 8657 Too Rich For My Blood!
May 06, 2009 (8:29 am)
This is my last post on this site for my (former) 2000 Outback. Traded her in last weekend for a 2007 Suzuki SX4. Don't get me wrong, I was really sad to see her go but here's what happened in a nutshell: bought her 4 years ago with 54K for $13K. Within 6 months the trans went, had a feud with Subaru NA and got a new trans installed for $1K. Had issues with front brake rotors, replaced them several times. Last year the fuel pump went, replaced that myself also, not too bad, $300. Brought her in for some fluid changes and found out she needed the timing belt job. New belts all around, new tensioner, new water pump, new front wheel bearings, new battery, then soon after the alternator went - $2800. I'm at just about 100K miles on her and a CV boot ripped. Brought her in for the fix ($288) only to be told that my head gaskets are starting to leak and the rear axle seals are leaking also. For a mere $3100, they can fix her like new until something else goes. That was the proverbial straw. The dealer gave me $4K trade in and we parted ways. You can bet your butt I bought the best warranty package Suzuki offered and I love the car. My Subie was slated to be sold at auction, so anyone out there who gets it will get an "almost" perfect car thanks to my piggy bank!
#8047 of 8657 CEL, etc.
May 06, 2009 (10:24 am)
After it's reset, within about 70 miles the CEL goes on the dash of my 2004 Outback Sedan LTD (75k miles). The car continues to run fine, but in addition to the CEL being on, the cruise-control button light continues to flash on and off, whether it is pressed to the "on" position or the "off" position. Once it is all reset, the lights cut off until another 70 miles or so. What should I be checking or replacing? Thanks.
May 06, 2009 (10:45 am)
You should have the code read so that you aren't in the dark. That's what the CEL is for---to get you to read the codes.
#8049 of 8657 Re: CEL, etc. [Mr_Shiftright]
May 06, 2009 (2:48 pm)
Absolutely. Ask around - many people have the code readers, and there are also places (like Auto Zone, if you live near one) that will read the codes for free in the hopes you buy parts from them!
#8050 of 8657 Re: CEL, etc. [xwesx]
May 07, 2009 (10:50 am)
Indeed, could be as as simple as a bad gas cap (not sealing well, so vacuum pressure is lost in the canister). Many parts stores will let you borrow a scanner since they know you'll buy parts there to address whatever issue comes up.
Shifty: agree on the HG issue.
Funny thing is we had 5 supposedly affected Subaru in my family (that's 10 head gaskets for those who are counting, given the H-4 layout) and none of us ever had that problem. Knock on wood.
#8051 of 8657 Re: Too Rich For My Blood! [ted55]
May 07, 2009 (10:55 am)
I'm at just about 100K miles on her and a CV boot ripped.
All by itself?
Think about it - what caused it to rip? You probably hit a rock or drove over a curb to cause that tear to happen. CV boots don't rip themselves.
That's like saying, "The other day I drove straight in to a tree, BOY these bumpers are so unreliable! Now I need a new one!"
No warranty in the world would cover that, either.
FWIW I had bad luck, too - some rodents (squirrels? chipmunks?) got in my engine bay and chewed up the wiring harness in my brand new Sienna, less than a year old. $700 out of my pocket, not covered under warranty by Toyota.
Better luck with your Zook.
#8052 of 8657 Re: Too Rich For My Blood! [ateixeira]
May 07, 2009 (12:27 pm)
Regarding CV boots, they either rip or they split. Splitting is due to aging of the rubber (tends to be smooth and on a normal crease/wear point) and tearing is mechanical. If the boot splits at an early age, that could be a warranty issue, but it is highly weather dependent (extreme temp highs and lows, humidity, etc).
#8053 of 8657 Re: CEL, etc. [ateixeira]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
May 07, 2009 (2:32 pm)
Mileage has a lot to do with it. If those cars were under 100K, it's too early for the problem to show up I think.
Anyway, it can't be more than a 10% failure rate, so your family might not get "decimated".
#8054 of 8657 2002 outback wagon 2.5 runs bad
May 07, 2009 (9:20 pm)
something new it runs bad most of the time but still really bad when it rains it wasn't seting any codes before but now get a rich on bank one side of motor. fuel regulator checked out to be good has good compeshion on all cyl's kills at stop signs but will start right back up. runs good at 85 and up but get below 70 and almost stops running then at around 45mph it will kick in and if you keep your foot in the same position will climb back up to 80 or more but let up just a litle and back down to 45 or less. had new timing belt at 125,000 miles and some gaskits now has 194,834 no big problims till now and no one can tell me what it is dealer said it could be any thing and I should bring it in to them so they can start replacing stuff till they find it . NO THANKS thast time I did that It cost me $3800.00
and is was a bad rear wheel bearing so they replaced them all. they said they would have needed it soon any way. haven't been back there and dout plan on it if at all posible Any oone ever had this problem need it back on road soon thanks
#8055 of 8657 Re: 2002 outback wagon 2.5 runs bad [benttool]
May 08, 2009 (8:58 am)
Whoa. You lost me after "fuel regulator checked out to be good has good compeshion on all cyl's kills at stop signs but will start right back up." I honestly have no idea what you were trying to convey after that.
My two guesses for you: 1. Mass Airflow Sensor needs to be cleaned or replaced. 2. Knock sensor may be acting up.