Last post on May 20, 2013 at 10:18 PM
You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback
What is this discussion about?
Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Wagon
#7777 of 8642 Re: Dead Battery after 20 minutes... Alternator or what? [rustyuser]
Jul 11, 2008 (8:18 am)
I just had to replace the alternator in my 2001 Outback. In mine the battery wasn't completely dead, and the alternator was working fine off and on. It failed to charge when the car got completely warmed up, but would charge fine up to the point the engine bay got hot, which might be why yours charged the battery on the way to pick up the new battery. In any event, my (independent) mechanic tried replacing the alternator with a new aftermarket unit and it came back with the same charging problems and were forced to put a Subaru alternator (at a substantially higher price) to fix the problem. I actually put a non-Subaru catalytic converter on it a year or so ago and still have the cat efficiency code turn on when I drive it on the highway also. Has anyone else noticed that Subarus don't seem to play well with others (i.e., non Subaru branded parts)?
#7778 of 8642 Re: Rattling Down Under [paisan]
Jul 11, 2008 (3:58 pm)
That is too easy - I think I will just take them off then! Anyone else do the same?
#7779 of 8642 Re: Rattling Down Under [blackbean]
Jul 11, 2008 (4:00 pm)
I take em off when they start rattling
#7780 of 8642 Brake Pads for 02 Bean - How to identify manufacture date???
Jul 11, 2008 (4:02 pm)
I want to buy brake pads for my 02 Bean and TireRack has two sets - one for pre June 02 and one for post June 02 Outbacks. How can I tell when my Outback was built? VIN is 4S3BH806727636607, Model is BHECYDE and Code is U1TW
#7781 of 8642 Re: Brake Pads for 02 Bean - How to identify manufacture date??? [blackbean]
Jul 11, 2008 (4:05 pm)
Should be in the door jam on the weight/tire pressure plate along the B-pillar of the dirver's door.
#7782 of 8642 Re: Brake Pads for 02 Bean - How to identify manufacture date??? [paisan]
Jul 12, 2008 (5:36 am)
That is where I looked first - went back after your reply (in case I was temporarily blind the first time) and it turns out it is on the door itself - 1/2 way down the side, almost on the bottom. Turns out it was a 12/01 manufacture -
#7783 of 8642 Windshield replacement Question
Jul 12, 2008 (10:22 am)
Hi, our '07 Outback has a cracked windshield that needs to be replaced. The "OEM equivalent" is less money than an "OEM" replacement. Is it OK to go with the equivalent for this?
Thanks in advance,
#7784 of 8642 Re: Rattling Down Under [paisan]
Jul 12, 2008 (2:39 pm)
I am not mechanically inclined so I will just have to live with the rattle.
Also, that flimsy shield at the very front of the car- they did some inspection work during the 50 point check a few months back and forgot to fasten it...it ended up hanging down for a few hours until they came back to fasten it. There seem to be some odd "shields" going on under there!
#7785 of 8642 Re: Windshield replacement Question [coloradokate]
Jul 12, 2008 (6:00 pm)
The OEM one may (probably) has the heater for the front wipers. The OEM equivalent one probably does not have the heated wires for the front wipers, so you may lose that feature.
#7786 of 8642 Embarassing Rattle and Squeal
Jul 12, 2008 (7:54 pm)
Hi, all first I'd like to express my relief and excitement upon finding this bulletin board!!!
May you you all become saints!...Ah, to the point....I have a '99 OB that I love and have had to only replace the usuals. Anyhow this awful rattle and distinctive whine of a bearing going out on a pulley. I have checked the tension in the belt seems fine (not a mechanic) does not get worse when I turn AC on and is horrible when I first start and let it warm-up. It does not seem to be effecting performance, and does quiet when I start driving. It doesn't happen always but when it does I draw looks from the whole parking lot, and have now been starting to drive before she warms up to avoid the looks ,horrible I know with out letting her warm-up (cutting my nose off to spite my face) Is this a shroud or pulley or something I should really worry about? I am out of warranty at this point, so she's been great to me should I just send her into the shop or can I fix myself?