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Last post on May 03, 2013 at 9:35 AM
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Subaru Legacy & Outback Forum.
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Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Wagon
#7449 of 8641 2002 Outback Wagon - What to look out for?
by ecycled
Jan 20, 2008 (4:11 pm)
Hello,
I am looking at a few used Subaru wagons.
OPTION 1 is single local owner 2002 Subaru Outback with just under 110,000 miles. It is being sold through a local dealership. What I've found using the VIN looks good. Asking just over $10k. From the standpoint of price it sounds good yet will this car last? What issues are known about this model?
OPTION 2 is a 2004 Subaru Outback listed as a "Certified Pre-Owned" with 68,000 miles yet it is $5k more than option 1 above. Is it worth the extra money for the "Certified" warranty? I'm a Grad student so keeping my monthly as low as possible is priority one.
Thanks.
ecycled
Salt Lake City, UT
#7450 of 8641 Re: Engine removal help needed! [tbragg44]
by paisan
Jan 20, 2008 (4:18 pm)
Are you pulling the engine + trans together? Or just the engine?
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
#7451 of 8641 Re: Engine removal help needed! [paisan]
by tbragg44
Jan 20, 2008 (5:42 pm)
Engine only, so I don't have to mess with the half-shafts.
#7452 of 8641 Re: Engine removal help needed! [tbragg44]
by paisan
Jan 20, 2008 (5:52 pm)
Have you split the trans from the engine yet? That is usually the hardest part.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
#7453 of 8641 Re: Engine removal help needed! [paisan]
by tbragg44
Jan 20, 2008 (7:27 pm)
I believe that's the step I'm at now. Is there a special tool I need? BFH?
TB
#7454 of 8641 Re: Engine removal help needed! [tbragg44]
by paisan
Jan 20, 2008 (7:48 pm)
Well first thing make sure all the nuts and bolts are undone around the whole thing. That's the first key, the other thing is you need to wiggle and pull toward the front. Have you removed the radiator? You may try some small screw driverst to pry it away. It's just a lot of pulling and wiggling with a few friends.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
#7455 of 8641 One way to look at it...
by fendertweed
Jan 22, 2008 (2:56 pm)
you're spending $5k to save 42,000 miles of wear & tear ... IOW, you'll pay $0.12 per mile extra for each mile saved on the '04.
Since it's almost impossible IMO/IME to run a modern car for $0.12 per mile, I'd say the lower mileage car is a better deal (as long as any major service that would be needed around 60-70k is already done).
Jon
#7456 of 8641 Re: Engine removal help needed! [paisan]
by xwesx
Jan 23, 2008 (7:25 pm)
Is this an auto transmission? I forget that from your original post.
In addition to the transaxle bolts and the two engine mounts, you need to remove the five nuts that attach the torque converter to the flex plate. There is a small rubber access cover on the upper, left (if looking at it) side of the engine block. Pop that off and rotate the engine one bolt at a time. Once that is done, just make sure the diagonal support that links the top of the transaxle to the car's firewall is removed, support the transaxle with a floor jack, and remove the engine. Like Mike said, wiggle the studs on the engine loose from the transaxle (they are about 3/8" long) as you are slowly lifting. Once the engine mount studs pop free from the cross member, it will be out.
Yes, make sure that radiator is out of there. I also needed to remove the carbon filter on mine, which was located on the inside of the frame rail, right next to the radiator. It did not look like it would be in the way, but sure enough it was.
Actually, I see you posted on 1/20.... I should be asking how it went!
#7457 of 8641 Re: Engine removal help needed! [xwesx]
by tbragg44
Jan 24, 2008 (3:26 am)
xwesx, It hasn't gone anywhere yet! Freezing temps over the weekend, and I'm working in an open carport.
Then I went out of town for a couple days, so no progress.
Yes it's automatic. Torque converter bolts are out and TC spins freely with engine rotation. Firewall brace is removed.
I removed the 5 engine to transaxle bolts. I've only gotten 1 of the 2 nuts on the bottom removed. They're between the engine and the half-shafts. Very little access space, let alone maneuvering room for a ratchet.
And to top it off, the place I "bought" my used engine from has not communicated at all other than to let me know they received my payment. Supposed to be a 48K motor, but now I'm worried about what I'll actually get and when. Arrrgggghhhhh!!!!!!
Thanks for the suggestions. Hopefully more progress tonight.
TB
#7458 of 8641 Re: Engine removal help needed! [tbragg44]
by xwesx
Jan 24, 2008 (8:33 am)
Ah, the nuts. Yes, you MUST take those off (even though there is, like you know, very little room), as the "bolts" are studs mounted in the engine block. They will not cause you any grief upon removing the engine. Once you get the engine mount studs to clear the cross member, the engine will slide easily forward and up so the studs can slip free of the transaxle. Those studs are about... 4"(?) long, so just be aware.
Sorry, I forgot that detail.
Good luck with it. I hope you are not going it alone, as that certainly makes the pull and install phases much more difficult.
Wacky weather this week. We had 12" of snow at the end of last week and over the weekend, with temps an amazingly warm 20-30 ABOVE zero! Then, bone-chilling winds as the temp dropped. Now it is -20F, but thankfully no wind.
All the best to you,
-Wes-