Last post on Jul 23, 2013 at 1:03 PM
You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback
What is this discussion about?
Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Wagon
#7188 of 8657 Re: 1992 subaru Legacy timing belt [k1morrow]
Mar 14, 2007 (11:48 am)
Regrettably, yes, you have to dig all the way back in there. Lining up the timing belt is incredibly easy, assuming the sprockets are marked as with later model years:
First, rotate the crank (with belt on) until it is in TDC position (should be a mark on the sprocket). Then, remove the tensioner and pull the belt. Align the cam sprockets (is this a SOHC or DOHC engine) so that 1), on a DOHC, the sprocket marks are facing each other - top pointed down, bottom pointed up and directly at the mark on the upper sprocket or 2), on a SOHC, the marks are pointed up (I think - better get confirmation on this). Reset your tensioner with the pin (or appropriate method) and have it in place to set tension on the belt when you have it reinstalled.
Then, you set the point of the timing belt that has the dotted line (lines should be on the back - smooth side - of the belt if it is new) on the crankshaft sprocket so that it lines up with the TDC mark. Working toward YOUR right (toward driver side of car), thread the belt onto the idler pulleys and sprockets so that the next line (all the rest of the lines should be solid) runs directly across the top of the sprocket, then down so that the next line is directly across the right side of the lower sprocket (if DOHC). There should be an alignment mark either on the sprocket or on the back of the plastic housing for this one. Continuing, thread through the idlers, water pump, etc, SKIP the last idler (should be a toothed idler) and align the marks on the cam sprockets to the left side. After you have done this, the belt should be on other than the one skipped idler to the bottom. At this point, pull the belt up so that it is engaged on that idler. Verify that all the marks are still correct, THEN release the tensioner. At this point, you can rotate the crank and move all the camshafts in time. I usually do a full rotation - slowly - and verify that everything is in perfect alignment when it comes back around to TDC. If it is, close it up and call it good!
Take it slowly and carefully, as bumping the cam sprockets can often send them "snapping" out of alignment. It can be a frustrating job with just one person (actually, it can be frustrating even with MORE than one person!), but it is fairly straight forward to get things together properly.
#7189 of 8657 Re: Spark plug change in a 2001 Outback 2.5 Sedan [xwesx]
Sep 18, 2007 (7:22 am)
My Contour and my Accord both rejected the Bosch plugs. The Contour ended up with the OEM double platinum Autolites and the Honda got NGKs.
#7193 of 8657 Subaru Outback 2000 head gasket
Jul 25, 2007 (6:11 pm)
I reside in Australia. My Outback has done 135,500 kms. I have a leak in the feft head gasket...about 1 litre every 4 weeks...$2,500 to replace both head gaskets. I have found internet sites that say Subaru America will extend an owner's warranty to include head gasket problems if you agree to use a 'coolant conditioner' that not only prevents head gasket failure but will stop leaks in an existing failed head gasket. Subaru Australia have told me they have no knowledge of this product and that American model Subarus are different to Australian Subarus (specs., fuel, etc.) I found that this is a common problem with my model, which Subaru Australia tell me that it is my bad luck. I also found out that the head gasket replacement is not always successful and can even lead to further head problems and that you should replace both head gaskets at the same time and you should replace the water pump while you are there as well as the timing belt that I have had replaced at 100,000 kms. It has been suggested to me by another mechanic to put an additive sealer in with the coolant and to monitor the leak to see if it seals the gasket. RACQ in Australia did not disagree with this additive option, while Subaru said it was putting a band aid on the problem and may void any warranty claims. RACQ said that Commodores have 2 tablets added to their coolant when the coolant is replaced due to maintenance. RACQ believe that these tablets not only (as claimed by GMH) lubricate the water pump seals but also seal any potential leaking cracks or head gaskets. Can anyone tell me 1.where to purchase some coolant conditioner? 2.Should Subaru replace my head gaskets as a 'call back' Manufacturer's fault? 3.Has anyone had success with any type of additive that seals heads?
#7194 of 8657 Re: Have you guys heard of this before? [dliboiron]
Jul 26, 2007 (10:07 am)
Stuff like this is junk and is the automotive equivilant of snake oil. Stay away!
Don't you think that if it worked as advertised the vehicle manufacturer would have used something similar already?
#7195 of 8657 Re: Have you guys heard of this before? [shrinermonkey]
Jul 26, 2007 (4:09 pm)
I don't think you understood that Subaru America are using this "conditioner" product and won't extend a warranty without the vehicle owner agreeing to using this product.
It has been confirmed to me by a third mechanic that GMH do use tablets "additive" mixed with the coolant to lubricate, neutralise components in the water which could cause corrosion and sealing capabilities. Is snake oil an aphrodisiac?
#7196 of 8657 Re: Have you guys heard of this before? [peterb7]
Jul 27, 2007 (5:43 am)
I was not replying to the coolant conditioner post... I was replying to the post about the device that supposedly improves gas mileage.
#7197 of 8657 Re: Window Problem & AC vent problem [robbieg]
Sep 18, 2007 (10:34 am)
My 2000 OB driver window packed up. A new motor was about $360 so I got a used one. After replacement, a tricky, PITA process which requires removal of the window glass, I dissected the dead motor and found a broken connection to one of the motor brushes (poor manufacturing). A 10c part probably, but unobtainable. I soldered it and now have a spare motor. The motor itself and the gears seem robust. So you may have the same issue or it may be a faulty switch or connection between the switch and the motor.