Last post on Jul 23, 2013 at 1:03 PM
You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback
What is this discussion about?
Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Wagon
#6151 of 8657 Re: #6144 of 6146 Re: timing belt by cptplt [tankmaster] by cptplt [tankmaster]
Jun 04, 2006 (3:27 pm)
>If you have information that can be substantiated that a SOHC 2.5 liter exists, Im always willing to learn something new.
check out the engine specs for the 06 Legacys(non turbo)
and its been like that since the turn of this century
>But, the 2.5 liter engine belt is replaced every 105K.
you are absolutely correct and my memory was at fault, mea culpa! I just remembered it was more than 60K and not the 90 I mentioned. I have a 98 Legacy GT with the 2.5 DOHC, I actually changed my belt at 60K as I had an oil leak which they needed to fix under warranty and the dealer said it would cost only a little more than the parts to do the timing belt at the same time as pretty much all the labor they needed to do the leak would also be needed for the timing belt. They actually ended up having Subaru cover the cost of the belt change too as they said it was "damaged" by the oil leak! One advantage of having the Subaru extended warranty, they have a tendency to do freebies for you, they also once changed the HVAC bulbs in the dash for free which is an uncovered item. I paid almost 2 hours labor to have that done on an older Legacy I had. IIRC saved just under hundred bucks with that free timing belt.
I've actually been changing the belt at 60K intervals as when it was 120K, I figured I should get a new water pump for sure (having had very bad experiences with Acuras and water pumps going out at even less mileage) and again there is only a little more labor necessary to change the timing belt if you are going for the water pump.
I think the basic jist of it all is that the manufacturers recommended 105K is more than adequate and 60 K was way excessive for the 2.2 as everyone in CA didn't have a problem changing it at 105K! Just as the rest of the world seems to do fine on 10K oil changes!
Jun 04, 2006 (6:28 pm)
Interesting that the 06s use a SOHC.
Now, I need yours and any other knowledable Suby owners help with my latest problem.
Took the battery out tonight to get at #2 and #4 spark plug. I leftthe key in the ignition and had one rear window open. When I reconnect the battery, the alarm triggered. I disconeected the battery, removed the key form the ignition, connected the battery again, and the same think.
Any ideas on how to immediately deactivate the alarm once I connect the battery?
I remeber on my 95, you had to turn the door lock with the key. Will this work on the 98? Also, really curious as to why disconnectiong the battery would mess with the alarm.
Thanks for any help
#6153 of 8657 06 Outback a/c cold-to-warm cycle
Jun 04, 2006 (6:40 pm)
The A/C in my 06 Outback cycles cold to warm every 15 to 20 seconds. (I've been told once that it stays within the 'acceptable' range when it warms up, and once that it doesn't). I've taken it to the dealer a couple of times now, but I can't seem to get a straight answer. The first time they said nothing was wrong, but after having them sit in the car with me and feel it, they drained and recharged my compressor.
Unfortunately, this did nothing as we found out last weekend on a road trip. I took it back in, and then the service agent called to tell me that he acknowledged something wasn't quite right, but that he'd need to keep it another day. The next day he told me that there was nothing wrong with it. In fact, he said, it is normal for the 06's to do that. He took me for a ride in another 06 and it did have a similar cycle, though it didn't do it when idling (mine does it all the time).
I was excited about this Outback, but I'm afraid I'm going to regret that I bought a Subaru. If this is true of 06's, surely I can't be the only one experiencing this? Any suggestions?
#6154 of 8657 Re: 06 Outback a/c cold-to-warm cycle [glaser]
Jun 05, 2006 (5:59 am)
I have a similar deal going on with my '06 2.5i OB, with the frequent cycling. The dealer evacuated and re-charged as did yours. He measured the vent temp at 45 degrees, though I don't know if that's when the compressor is engaged or when its not, becuase I think there are some pretty wild swings in vent temp while the AC is running. Dealer claims the AC "works as designed". I have not been on a road trip yet though, but I do know the AC can't cool the car on a hot day on a short trip.
Jun 05, 2006 (8:15 am)
For that year they call for inspection at 90k and replacement at 105k. That may be part of the confusion.
#6156 of 8657 2003 Outback 3.0 LL Bean Transmission Problem at High Speed
Jun 05, 2006 (11:22 am)
The problem occurs between 60 and 70 mph when going up a steep grade (on way up to Lake Tahoe). When attempting to pass and one needs a lttle extra speed, attempting to "kickdown" the transmission by pressing hard on the accelerator results in an almighty bang, screaching tires, and a fear that the transmission is about to fall out!
This problem only occurs under the above stated conditions--otherwise the car is great.
The dealer can not/will not replicate the conditions--they don't want to drive the two hours up to Tahoe!!
Any help would be greatly appreciated. DonM
#6157 of 8657 Re: 2003 Outback 3.0 LL Bean Transmission Problem at High Speed [donmaddison]
Jun 06, 2006 (6:19 am)
I'd start with an ATF flush. Go to a place that has one of those machines that forces new fluid in and sucks the old fluid out.
How is the ATF level now? Any burned smell?
#6158 of 8657 Re: timing belt by cptplt [cptplt]
Jun 07, 2006 (9:46 am)
Well, not to contradict anyone too much, there were both the 2.2L and 2.5L available on the '96 models. In 1997, the Outback went strictly to the 2.5L. For the '96 2.5L, replacement schedule is 105K (seems like an odd #!) so anywhere between there and 90K is a good time if you are having any other work done on the engine. I have never managed to leave mine in there that long, as I replaced it the first time at 83K when I purchased it, then at 144K (while the engine was out of the car), again at 172K when I had a water pump failure, and again at 193K when I replaced the head gaskets. Even the first time it came out of the engine after 83K of use, the belt looked perfect other than the timing marks being faded on the outside of the belt. That gives me confidence that they can last 100K or more without a problem. In fact, I always keep the previous belt on hand just in case I have a problem and the current belt is damaged somehow. The trick there is just to make sure you mark the belt before you remove it from the sprockets, otherwise getting it back on with proper timing is a crap-shoot. As it is, all of my maintenance and repairs that required belt replacement have happened in a relatively scheduled manner, so I am able to purchase a new belt rather than using the backup.
#6159 of 8657 2000 Legacy -need help!
Jun 08, 2006 (12:28 pm)
I have a big problem.. my car has 104K , I've changed the timming belt 2 mo ago,.. oil every 3 mo, BUT 2 weeks ago the engine start making a lot of noise and it's even worst whe you accelerate I took it to my mecanic, I start the car and 3 seconds later he tels me that the engine needs to be replaced because some bearing inside the engine is broken or something...Is it possible?? What should I do?
#6160 of 8657 Re: 2000 Legacy -need help! [mab6]
Jun 08, 2006 (2:02 pm)
Hmmm... not much to go on here. Do you have any other info such as describing what it sounds like, the conditions surrounding when it started, etc? Also, any performance hits, smoke, check engine light, etc., coupled with the noise? What was the level of the oil when it started?