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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

8642 messages,  Last post on May 20, 2013 at 10:18 PM

You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback Forum.

What is this discussion about? Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Wagon

Messages Page 567 of 865

#5655 of 8642 Re: Antifreeze odor [hpaulson2] by garandman

Dec 21, 2005 (12:12 am)

Replying to: hpaulson2 (Dec 18, 2005 2:33 am)
I have a '95 Subaru legacy wagon, 175K klm. (109 K miles )
My head gskt. failed last week. I bought a SoA rebuilt engine $6K Cndn. I suspected something wrong a month ago- poor gas mileage - hard starting - black coolant coming out of exhaust.
i asked Subaru dealer to check it out-he found nothing wrong.
Same reply at local NAPA dealer - he replaced the starter.
I'll replace the car soon, but it won't be a Subaru
 
This is a very well known problem with Phase I 2.5l engines. Too bad you had inept mechanics. Here's the "Disclaimer" that I posted on several Subaru forums, where head gasket problems are discussed in infinite detail (like 300 threads).
 
WARNING: If you own a 1996-99 2.5l Subaru with the Phase I engine, the head gaskets are known to fail with little or no warning at 80,000 to 150,000 miles. When they fail, at a minimum you need new head gaskets - $1,200. If you have ignored the warning signs or are unlucky, the engine will require rebuilding at a cost of at least $3,000.
 
So, you can 1. sell the car right now and buy another economical AWD station wagon (oops - there aren't any others...). 2. replace the head gaskets pre-emptively (that's what I did on one of mine) 3. keep driving it but pay attention to signs of failure or 4. drive it until failure - which may also damage the engine.
 
Rebuilt engines cost at least $3,000. Used engines are almost impossible to find.
 
I wonder how many head gasket failures will have to be reported how many times on how many forums before owners of these cars understand they need to treat head gaskets as a maintenance item?
 
Warning signs include: no warning; intermittent overheating ; coolant smell in exhaust; rough starting and white smoke on start; bubbling in coolant overflow bottle after hard driving; presence of coolant by products in engine oil.
 

#5656 of 8642 Re: Rear Control Arm Bushing Failure [10kken] by garandman

Dec 21, 2005 (12:20 am)

Replying to: 10kken (Dec 19, 2005 6:27 pm)
I'm new here and I've got a problem with my 2000 Outback. I've been hearing this creaking noise when going over bumps, took it to the dealer thinking I needed shocks. The dealer said that the rear control arm bushing needed replacing and they had to replace the whole arm - $180 for the part, $325 for the labor (4 hours!).
 
Try an independent shop. They probably only charge $65 per hour so you'll save $75 or so.
 
Pop your head under the car and take a look at the rear suspension. You'll see why it's not instant. and it will have to be realigned, which is usually about $50-75.
 
Don't know why they do or do not need to replace the whole arm.

#5657 of 8642 Re: Tranny [subaruguru] by billj3

Dec 21, 2005 (10:49 am)

Replying to: subaruguru (Dec 20, 2005 7:55 pm)
Yes that's what the mechanic thought. Clutches are always locked in, thus in AWD drive all the time. So the question is did an electrical/computer problem cause the mechanical problem by locking in the clutches when they should not be engaged OR did the solenoid valve go bad and create the error code? I'm not totally clear on this but as I understand it: the computer tells the solenoid to bypass fluid and disengage the clutches when drive is not required or necessary to the rear wheels. The reading the mechanic took off the computer indicated the rear end was at 10%, which means 90% power is always going to the rear wheels. Thus the bypass valve is not operating to allow fluid to bleed through and disengage the clutches. Not sure what else goes on in the transfer case, but am I understanding this correctly otherwise?
Thanks, Bill

#5658 of 8642 Clutch going 17K after replacement by harvpt

Dec 21, 2005 (2:04 pm)

I have a '98 Legacy Outback Wagon. In February '04 the clutch went at 51,000. In June '05 I had a bad rattle and the dealer (who replaced the clutch) said the throw out bearing had gone and I needed a new clutch. When I pointed out that they replaced the clutch 16 months and 12,000 miles earlier, they said it wasn't the clutch after all but a loose exhaust hanger. Fast forward to the present and my mechanic, not the dealer, says the clutch is going. It's now been 22 months and 17,000 miles.
 
The dealer won't take responsibility because it's been more than 12 months (even though they identified the problem at 16 months) and Subaru USA says it's a dealer issue.
 
I should add that this is my third standard drive car so I know how to drive a clutch. I will concede that I do mostly city driving.
 
Any recourse?

#5659 of 8642 how do you by krzyss

Dec 21, 2005 (2:20 pm)

wait for green light?
transmission engaged, left foot firmly pressing the clutch
 
or
 
transmission in neutral, left leg unoccupied?
 
Krzys

#5660 of 8642 Fiction or Fact: Subie Reliability? by kavalla

Dec 21, 2005 (5:55 pm)

Am considering a 2006 Outback 2.5XT Ltd w/auto.trans. and would like comments on overall brand reliability and turbo experiences as to same. Kavalla, Pacific NorthWest

#5661 of 8642 Re: Fiction or Fact: Subie Reliability? [kavalla] by kens

Dec 22, 2005 (9:27 am)

Replying to: kavalla (Dec 21, 2005 5:55 pm)
You may want to ask your question over in the 2005+ Legacy/Outback thread. There are a few OBXT owners there.
 
Although I own a 2005 Legacy GT, many of the internals are identical to the OBXT. So far, reliability has been excellent. No major problems with the car -- I'm currently at 25K miles.
 
The turbo is intoxicating. While not quite the same blast as with the manual tranny, it still pulls very hard and is tons of fun to drive. As for the turbo reliability, I have no concerns since Subaru has quite a bit of experience with forced induction. Also, the engine block used in the OBXT has already been used in the Baja, STi, Forester XT and now the 2006+ WRX.
 
Ken

#5662 of 8642 Re: Fiction or Fact: Subie Reliability? [kens] by zman3

Dec 22, 2005 (10:01 am)

Replying to: kens (Dec 22, 2005 9:27 am)
Also, the engine block used in the OBXT has already been used in the Baja....
 
Yeah, but since there has been what, maybe 2 Baja's sold, that doesn't make it statistically significant.

#5663 of 8642 Re: Fiction or Fact: Subie Reliability? [zman3] by kens

Dec 22, 2005 (2:32 pm)

Replying to: zman3 (Dec 22, 2005 10:01 am)
Now, now.
 
You know, I actually went back and added the Baja after posting.
 
Ken

#5664 of 8642 Re: Fiction or Fact: Subie Reliability? [kavalla] by garandman

Dec 23, 2005 (4:01 am)

Replying to: kavalla (Dec 21, 2005 5:55 pm)
Am considering a 2006 Outback 2.5XT Ltd w/auto.trans. and would like comments on overall brand reliability and turbo experiences as to same. Kavalla, Pacific NorthWest They're reliable, but I bpught an H6 (Putback 3.0R) because the dealer says the XT's average 20-24mpg. And the Boy Racer hood scoop isn't appealing to me. But Suvbaru has delivered many turbo AWD vehicles and they're generally quite robust.
 
There's even a website called Legacy GT devoted to them.

Messages Page 567 of 865

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