Last post on Jul 23, 2013 at 1:03 PM
You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback
What is this discussion about?
Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Wagon
#5595 of 8657 Re: Tranny [cptplt]
Dec 11, 2005 (10:39 pm)
I just wanted to clear up the confusion regarding why my 99 Outback wasn't repaired under warranty.
The dealer could not make the trannie problem happen, as it was intermittent at that time(at 72000kms). By the time the trannie problem became solid, my Outback was out of warranty.
I am aware that things do fail, if I were the only person to have had trannie problems with my Subaru Outback, I too would have put it down to bad luck and that would have been the end of the story.
However; my point is that this was a known problem by Subaru, therefore Subaru should have done something about it.
Subaru have done nothing.....except send out a leaflet offering a rebuilt transmission at an inflated price.
Subaru Automatic Transmissions before 1998 did not have a problem and there are many Subaru's with well over 200K kms still running with the orginal Trannies.
I have not heard of any transmission probems on 2003 to 2006, but that maybe because they are still under warranty.
#5596 of 8657 Re: 2005 Outback 3.0 Brakes. [laughergirl]
Dec 12, 2005 (5:35 am)
Well it might be a plus that you are becoming a less agressive driver, but I know that's not what you wanted to hear.
The grinding noise is not normal and it does indicate a problem as well as the 'ineffective brakes'. Let me assure you that a 05 OB should be able to stop very well, leaving a lot of room between you and the deer on the road.
Do you know what wheel it is comming from? Some ideas is a hanging caliper, brake pad installed 'backwards' (metal to the rotor - yes I have seen it happen), badly scored rotors, misalligned pads and/or caliper.
#5597 of 8657 Re: 2005 Outback 3.0 Brakes. [laughergirl]
Dec 12, 2005 (8:05 am)
If you are a fairly aggressive driver, then my long discussion about brake bedding is not relevant: your normal driving should have set the pads up just fine. I would echo what tkanic said: have someone check pads, rotors, be sure some yoyo didn't put a pad in backward (metal to metal!?), and check functioning of the ABS system. Also check a few oddities, like inspecting tires to be sure pressures are up to normal and no exposed metal belt plies, etc. I once had a tiny stone not much bigger than a grain of sand somehow work its way into the edge of a brake pad (how???) and make horrible noises until I dug it out with a screwdriver.
You spoke of grinding on inclines, and I'm trying to figure what that means: is the noise a squeal like a metal scraping, as the wear indicators on the brake pads? That sounds a bit like fingernails on a chalkboard, BTW, if you can remember from school days. Or a buzz-like vibration in the brake pedal, as when the ABS kicks in? Or a "pulse" in the pedal as from a warped rotor (note that overtightened wheel lugs can cause this). And does it not happen on level roads? Is it dependent on the severity of the stop, or speed, or wheel turn, or what? When did this start? Did you have any work done on the wheels or tires, etc., just before that? Did you do any offroad excursions? More data might help with all the experienced Subie owners in this group.
Brakes are such a fundamental safety component that no manufacturer would dare build weak brakes. In fact, most braking systems are capable of stopping the wheels under literally any circumstance, so stopping power is determined more by tire grip and by effectiveness of the ABS if the car has one. If the brakes on your car can't do that, there is something seriously wrong, and it doesn't matter if the car is a Subaru or a Porsche.
Any decent dealer should have found this in one visit, or at most two, if it is intermittent. Maybe it is time to try another dealer. If so, check with others on this network for recommendations. What part of the country are you in?
#5598 of 8657 Re: Battery Icon Light and Brake icon light Illuminated on dash panel [mfmatusky]
Dec 12, 2005 (9:59 am)
Hi, did you ever get a response/solution to this problem?
I purchased a 03 Legacy at 50,303. At 53,800, while traveling, the battery and brake lights stay on. At 55K and cold weather the lights come on at very low speeds,the headlights flicker and the engine revs. Any idea what is going on?
#5599 of 8657 Re: 05 OB, Check engine, Cruse and ABS light on - help [tkanic]
Dec 12, 2005 (11:41 am)
today I drive the car, the check engine light was not on. I went on my trip and figured to repeat what I did last time to see if it reoccurs. So I stopped on my driveway on a snowy patch then tryed to get up the steep part from a stop. After some wheel spinning the ABS light came on, the Check Engine and the cruse started to blink.
Also the trip odometer shows a 'Er SS' or 'Er 55' code. What is that suppose to be? The ABS light went out on a restart, the check engine is still on.
Also does the car's OBD2 (computer) hold onto the codes so if the check engine light goes out again the dealer can find out why I get the check engine light?
#5600 of 8657 Re: 05 OB, Check engine, Cruse and ABS light on - help [tkanic]
Dec 12, 2005 (1:10 pm)
Wow... that's baffling but the good news is that that you were able to replicate it! The OBD is supposed to hold the codes until they are reset or after what was it.... 90 cycles? So, even if the light goes out in the next couple of days, the code should still be there. Since you know you can replicate the situation that causes the light to trip, perhaps enlist the dealer's help to solve this one. I'm probably being overly optimistic here, but hey, it's Monday! A perfect time for optimism!!!!
#5601 of 8657 Re: 2000 OB Ltd: Battery and rear brakes [tkanic]
Dec 12, 2005 (1:14 pm)
Hmmm.... I'm not the fastest car in the garage, so I'm surprised to see this post.
I replaced the rear pads on my '96 about three months ago (first replacement with about 193K on the car!). That was the first time in my life I had worked on disc brakes, so I read through the appropriate section of my Hayne's manual, got my tools together, and set to work. From the point I jacked up the first side of the car to pull the wheel until it was back on the ground and ready to go, it was 45 minutes. I figured I could knock off a third of that time next time.
Maybe now I am being TOO optimistic!
If a DIY'er, the Haynes manual is cheap and comes in very handy for all sorts of everyday (well, periodic anyway) maintenance. I think I paid about $20 for mine back in August 2000 at a local auto parts store.
#5602 of 8657 Re: 2000 OB Ltd: Battery and rear brakes [xwesx]
Dec 12, 2005 (3:05 pm)
You can also get a set of factory Subaru manuals on CD from eBay. I think mine cost about $15.
Takes up a lot less space than the book, but of course you can't take it outside and drape it over a fender while you are under the hood!
#5603 of 8657 Re: 2000 OB Ltd: Battery and rear brakes [stantont]
Dec 12, 2005 (7:53 pm)
Haynes manuals are the best I've used. They walk you through step-by-step with photos.
A factory manual assumes that you know what you're doing and provides a not very detailed sketch.
Unfortunately, I haven't seen any Haynes manuals for any Subaru's 2000 and newer.
#5604 of 8657 Re: 2000 OB Ltd: Battery and rear brakes [jfl]
Dec 12, 2005 (8:28 pm)
I ran into the same thing; that's why I got the CD factory manual for my '02 Legacy. It seems Haynes doesn't produce manuals for reliable cars like Subies, Hondas, or Toyotas until they are at least 5 years old. Being a bit anal, I wanted more info about the car than the owner's manual provided.
The factory manual provides good pictures and diagrams, but it is organized a bit randomly. I suspect the guy who sold them actually downloaded the chapters from Subaru's website, and not in any particular order.