Last post on Jul 23, 2013 at 1:03 PM
You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback
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Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Wagon
#5577 of 8657 2000 Subaru Outback Legacy Wagon Electrical Problem
Dec 08, 2005 (10:16 am)
I recently replaced my battery and cables after my car wouldn't start one morning. After a few weeks, I had the same problem--the car wouldn't turn over (although it tried to crank). I jumpstarted the car and drove it to a local Firestone dealership. They checked the electrical system and found nothing wrong (including the alternator and coil). Firestone did confess that electrical systems weren't their expertise and suggested I take the car to a Subaru specialist. The car has started without a problem the last couple of days although I detect a burning smell. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem might be?
#5578 of 8657 2000 OB Ltd: Battery and rear brakes
Dec 09, 2005 (10:52 am)
My wonderful 2000 OB Ltd wagon is now 6 yrs old and (unfortunately) needed its first 'unscheduled' maintenance: a new Oxygen sensor. It was replaced (ka-ching!), but she also needs new rear brake pads (still original) and the battery test failed (reading: 14.1 (volts?)). Anyhow, here's my questions:
- Dealer price for the brakes was over $300 (SF Bay area). I'm thinking of taking it to Midas, hoping it would be cheaper. Comments pls?
- Can I replace the battery myself? Recommendations on what battery to get?
(2000 OB / 2002 Forester)
#5579 of 8657 Re: 2000 OB Ltd: Battery and rear brakes [martijnh]
Dec 09, 2005 (11:37 am)
14.1 V, assuming the car was running does not sound like a battery trouble, perhaps a voltage regulator problem or a altenator problem (98 outbacks had a recall on the alt several years into it, it might have included a few other years too).
But it sounds like 6 years is alot to ask of a battery and it should be changed now because of that. And yes you 'should' be able to do it yourself, but if you do it wrong, well lets say very wrong you could cause some damage.
Midas should be cheaper, but will use aftermarket parts which may not be as good, and may wear faster (then again they might be better parts, but I doubt it)
#5580 of 8657 Re: Tranny [cptplt]
Dec 09, 2005 (1:40 pm)
My 99 Outback.....had 85K and was 64 months old (5yrs 4 months, however, I started to complain about trannie problems at 72K and 54 months old......still in warranty.....but because Subaru had "never heard of a known trannie problem" it wasnt fixed under warranty.
The transmission filter and fluid were changed at 72K service by the dealer, when I told them of my transmission problems, later I was told that this was normal....now I know it was...........the dealer did try to get Subaru to honor the warranty, because I had the problem documented by the dealer. They also found me a transmission rebuilder at half the cost of Subaru.
Once again I am not sure why it is acceptable for the Subaru transmissions to fail, just because other car companies have worse transmission....my point is that none of these transmissions should fail....and that a known problem (with a tech bulletin) to a transmission shop is unknown by Subaru and is not repaired under warranty. However, Subaru were quick to send out a leaflet saying they had a factory rebuilt transmission of more than twice the cost of a Transmission shop with a no better warranty.
I have owner both Honda Civic and Toyota Camry and had over 200K without a transmission fail and even a old Dodge with 260K miles....I expected no less from Subaru.
I guess I should just lower my expectations
#5581 of 8657 Re: 2000 OB Ltd: Battery and rear brakes [tkanic]
Dec 09, 2005 (2:44 pm)
You can do the battery and the brakes yourself. It only takes about 45 minutes total - for both jobs! Pads for the rear will probably run you around $65, a bottle of DOT3 brake fluid ~$4.00, some anti-squeal compound ~$3.00, and a battery at about $80. The need for the battery to be replaced probably has more to do with its ability to carry a load. For example (purely conjecture here), your battery might only last 30 minutes if you shut the car off and leave the lights on while a new battery would last perhaps 4 hours. After 6 years, it is a good time to replace. The only point of caution is to make sure you reconnect the terminals properly!
#5582 of 8657 Re: 2000 OB Ltd: Battery and rear brakes [xwesx]
Dec 09, 2005 (3:00 pm)
Well, the battery is obviously an easy job. Don't know if I will replace the brake pads myself though. I did assist a friend once to replace the brakes on a 82 Chevy Caprice Classic...
Another thread mentioned the importance of tightening the lugnuts with the appropriate torque to prevent brake-rotor-warping?
Any sites/books that illustrate brake pad replacement?
#5583 of 8657 Re: 2000 OB Ltd: Battery and rear brakes [martijnh]
Dec 09, 2005 (5:02 pm)
45 minutes for replacing the brake pads, perhaps if you know what you are doing, and have done it before more then once. For the first timer I would say allow 3 hours. The battery itself should be quick, but again for a battery virgin perhaps 20-30 minutes.
#5584 of 8657 05 OB, Check engine, Cruse and ABS light on - help
Dec 10, 2005 (7:48 am)
I was going up my snowy driveway, well skidding up as is it steep and I wasn't moving that fast to begin with.
I quickly moved the shifter into 'manumatic' mode 2nd gear from the 'normal' drive position to help out a bit and made it up.
Now I go to turn the car around, then the ABS light and Check engine light came on together. In my old car the ABS light might come on if a wheel is slipping too much, so I though it might be that, but the check engine light
I shut off the car then re-start it, abs light is now off, but check engine is stil on and I notice the Cruse control light is flashing. I took the car down the block to see if it would go away (assuming it was due to the slipping), but no dice. I noticed that the CC will not work either.
I have a 2 yr old code reader which I hooked up but got no trouble codes, it did seem to take longer to read however.
Called the dealer, he told me that:
1 - When the check engine light comes on the cruse light flashes and won't work
2 - That the skidding should not cause the Check engine light to light.
3 - ABS light is most likely a seperate issue, perhaps related to the skidding.
4 - My code reader most likely does not do dealer (manufacturer) specfic codes.
Anyone out there have and suggestions or have had a simular trouble?
#5585 of 8657 2005 Legacy GT
Dec 10, 2005 (8:13 am)
my car developed new feature.
There is a hair crack in windshield.
Right lower corner going toward center up. Lovely sight.
I will be visiting dealer on Monday.
PS In MA windshield is covered by insurance so if Subaru says that it is not warranty then it will be insurance. By the way there is no sign of impact near the crack.
Dec 10, 2005 (9:25 am)
I wouldn't exactly call that premature failure, heck on a Dodge van that's longer than average life! LOL