Last post on Jul 23, 2013 at 1:03 PM
You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback
What is this discussion about?
Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Wagon
#5433 of 8657 Re: water leaking in 1999 subaru legacy [icfc]
Nov 08, 2005 (2:21 pm)
My guess ld be that the water is faling onto the release cable from some point further along and then running along the cable before dropping off.
The most likely culprit is that the drains from the air inlet area immediately in front of the windscreen have become clogged. To check them, use a fine bored plastic coated witre, or better still a semi rigid plastic hose to poke up from the base of the drains under the car. To check where the water drains, pour some water down the windscreen with the car parked on a flat dry surface.
Wth the Outback, I found the areas in the front wings (I think fenders to you) immediately in front of the front doors filled up with mud if I had been driving on dusty roads.
I fabricated a piece of 4mm (say 3/16") drip irrigation hose (fairly rigid black plastic but bends to curves easily) into a hose fittng, sealing the gap with silicon. This allowed me to deliver a fine high-pressure spray against mud inside the drain, reversing the normal water flow. This simple tool is very effective.
The other possibility is the drain from the air conditioner unit or possibly some problem with the drains from the sunroof, if fitted. These run down the inside of the A pillars, I think and might conceivably have been pulled away from thir connection into the fromt of the sun roof. However if the sun roof was closed their should be only minimal water coming this way.
#5434 of 8657 Re: Intermittant sticking and mushy brakes after tire change [outbackowner1
Nov 08, 2005 (3:05 pm)
Thanks for your replies, guys. Besides the fact that they worked on the tires and examined the brakes, are either of you mechanics or knowledgeable enough to say that this type of intermittent brake problem is, or is not, possibly caused by a mechanic being in that area? Because I have had my cars worked on there for 10 years and I have to say something when I tell them I'm having it looked at by another shop. For example, when looking at brake pads to determine that they're worn, does one have to put it back together in a way that, say, a loose bolt will cause the caliper to cause intermittent problems? Or does looking at brakes require no touching of them at all? Thanks for your help.
#5435 of 8657 Re: Subaru Dash Lights [hammerhead]
Nov 08, 2005 (3:08 pm)
Paul, rather than emailing it to folks, why not post it here? That way it will be helpful to people reading now and also many others in the future when they are reading back posts.
It's better if we have the conversations right here on the Forums for that reason - a lot of times folks can find the answers to their questions without having to ask them over and over if someone will be generous enough to share a solution right here.
#5436 of 8657 Re: Intermittant sticking and mushy brakes after tire change [outbackowner1
Nov 08, 2005 (6:23 pm)
I am not a professional mechanic, but I have never had to open up the calipers to inspect the amount of pad left on my brakes. it is very easy to see just by pulling the wheel and looking. New brake pads are ~3/8" thick (or maybe a bit more) and your squealer is going to sound at around 1/16". I just replaced my rear pads for the very first time 193K; the fronts were replaced at.... hmm..... can't remember. About 3years ago, so maybe 130K?
I am sorry to insinuate that there could be dishonesty at your shop since you've been such a long-standing customer, but it seems very odd that this would have started immediately after having the car there. I'm suspicious, that's all.
#5437 of 8657 Re: Subaru Dash Lights [pat]
Nov 08, 2005 (6:25 pm)
If this is a file that could use hosting (if not copyrighted), I can put it on my site if you'll send it my way, Paul. Then I will pop a link here; the offer is open.
#5438 of 8657 Re: Intermittant sticking and mushy brakes after tire change [outbackowner1 [xwesx]
Nov 08, 2005 (8:26 pm)
I agree with Wes.
I rotated my tires this weekend and inspected the pads in the process (2000 Legacy). You can easily see the lining on the outer pads. The caliper has a horizontal slot that allows you to see how much lining is on the inner pad. It's not necessary to remove the caliper at all.
And yes juice, I waxed the wheels inside and out!
#5439 of 8657 Re: Subaru Dash Lights [xwesx]
Nov 09, 2005 (5:18 am)
That's a good idea, Wes!
#5440 of 8657 Re: Subaru Dash Lights [pat]
Nov 09, 2005 (8:16 am)
Can do, Pat - If I had known it was such a popular topic, I would have posted it to begin with! Let me dig it out of the archives here... stand by...
Wes - It's an e-mail text... I'll just copy & paste, but thanks for the offer.
#5441 of 8657 OK... the heater light bulb post!
Nov 09, 2005 (8:24 am)
This is the text of an email I rec'd from an Edmunds contributor (IdahoDoug) describing how he performed this routine on his 97 OB. Neither he nor I would claim to know how it applies to your specific situations.
Hope it helps.
Subject: Re: HVAC bulb
Actually, the operation is incredibly simple. Pop out the cupholders and
remove the two LARGE phillips screws (don't touch those teeny ones) that
hold the cupholder assy in. Pull out the cupholder. Pull out the ashtray
all the way (push down on the spring loaded "lid" and it comes all the way
out) and look in the now vacant hole for two phillips screws fairly close to
the rear edge (vehicle's rear) of the "roof" of the vacant hole. They're
impossible to access with a normal screwdriver - I used a bicycle multi tool
but you can also use a phillips bit and a pair of pliers to complete the
half turn it takes to loosen them enough to remove by hand.
Now pull out on the top edge of the trim piece that surrounds the radio
until it resists further leaning. All you need is for the top edge to come
out about 3 inches - DON'T try pulling this out all the way, meaning don't
try pulling up on it to pull it's bottom edge out of the slot. Leave the
bottom edge pinned between the front edge of the center console and the
center of the dash. I pulled this trim piece out when putting a stereo in
my nearly identical '97 last week and it was a pain to put back.
Now point both center vents all the way down, providing a ledge at their
bottom edges to grip the trim piece with several fingers and pull back and
down at a 45 degree angle, wiggling it side to side to help free it. It
takes a surprising amount of force, but then two plastic clips at the
vertical centerline of the vents on each edge will pop out of the dash
opening. They're not fragile at all, but just don't break the trim piece
that defines the bottom of the vents - spread the load with several fingers.
Once it's free, there's a wiring harness to the emergency flasher switch to
disconnect - I think the catch is on the top surface of the white connector.
Now you've got 4 phillips screws holding the HVAC unit in place. Remove
them, then lift it like the hood of a car and see two small silver phillips
screws. Remove these (key here is don't drop these into the dash) and you
can now wiggle the part they held onto the back of the HVAC unit away about
a half inch. These screws hold the cable mechanism that moves the water
valve. Now put the HVAC unit back down (again like a car hood) so it's
close to its normal position and you'll see you've opened up a half inch gap
into which you look. At the bottom you'll see a white 'wire tape' that's
the wiring connector and the thing that limits you from pulling the gap
wider. On the rearward face of the slot you've opened up, you'll see the
back of a circuit board and on it are 3 green plastic discs about a quarter
inch in diameter. These are the light bulbs. Use a small standard blade
screwdriver to hook a crevice on the edge and rotate the uppermost one
counter clockwise about 1/16th of a turn. That's all it takes to remove
them as they're kind of a 'push and turn' install. Once you've pulled this
easy one, it will help you get the harder two that are down deep in the slot
you've created. Note that the one by the fan switch is longer - the other
two are identical. Once they were loosened, I used a pair of needlenose
pliers to reach down and gently remove them from their holes. Kind of like
that old game of "Operation".
This whole thing should take you no more than 20 minutes. Now slap the new
ones in, remembering the long one goes by the fan switch and button it back
up. The bulbs again take just the slightest rotation to lock them back in
place. A penlight helps you see the holes they go in have notches in and
position them with the needlenose.
#5442 of 8657 Re: OK... the heater light bulb post! [hammerhead]
Nov 09, 2005 (9:34 am)
I did this on my 99 Legacy Sedan last winter. Total time of the job was about 1/2 an hour. Bulbs cost about $15.00. I replaced all three while I was in there. Good Luck! Rob M.