Last post on May 22, 2013 at 4:04 PM
You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback
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Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Wagon
Aug 26, 2005 (10:52 am)
i don't know exactly where to post this message so i am starting here. any help is greatly appreciated. i have a 1990 subaru legacy L 4wd 4 door. so far has been a realy good car, but recently started a major problem as my daughter and sometimes my wife drive the car. the car will start jumping/hesitating(like running out of gas) and the only way to keep it running is to put the peddle to the floor and wait. this comes and goes. will not it for a while(can be weeks) and then will start doing it again. we carried to a local repair shop on a Monday and of course it never did it for them...took car home(running fine) and on Thursday it did it again. problem comes and goes but is causing serious concern as i cant trust it ti get my daughter or whomever is in it home..any ideas? has new fuel filter and new plugs(within last month).. fuel problem? vacum leak???link">
Aug 26, 2005 (10:56 am)
I think you were right to look at those things, also inspect the plug wires. If they are original then they are 16 years old, time to swap them out. Mazda's wires on my Miata don't even last 5 years, never mind 16.
Our 626 has hesitation/stumbling problems as it turned out to be in need of a throttle body service, i.e. fuel system cleaning. That might help, and it was cheap.
#5196 of 8644 Re: Spark or fuel [ateixeira]
Aug 26, 2005 (6:51 pm)
Yes, and maybe add a bottle of Heet to the gas tank in case there is any excess moisture buildup that is complicating the problem. Does the occurrance of the problem tend to happen with any correlation to how much fuel is in the tank?
#5197 of 8644 Re: Trailer lights problem [stevenm1]
Aug 26, 2005 (6:58 pm)
Possibly, but it all depends on how the circuits are wired and where the fuses are located. The dash lights do not take much current to operate, so likewise it should follow that it doesn't take much of a drop in flow for them to shut off. The lights may not be drawing too much current for the circuit, but that doesn't mean it would have no effect on the dash lights if they were tapping into the same supply. Is it possible to run a dedicated 12V supply to the wiring harness such that the trailer wiring only utilizes the signal for braking/turns and not for the actual power to operate the lights? If you could do that, it might help to isolate the problem between the nominal draw and some other type of short. Just suggestions - it may be more trouble than its worth....
#5198 of 8644 Re: problem [tpriester13]
Aug 27, 2005 (4:56 am)
I had something similar happen to my 92 legacy once, it was a camshaft sensor or something like that.
#5199 of 8644 Re: P1133 oxygen sensor heater circuit high input [doug900]
Aug 27, 2005 (1:00 pm)
I also have a 99 legacy that has the 4 wire front and back. got code of P1133 from Auto Zone scanner. Replaced with Bosch universal 3-wire, disconnected battery and after 5 secs check light went on again. Thinking of getting 4-wire denso. Will wait to see how you make out. (someone told me to try grounding 4th wire on engine side but that didnt work). Let me know how you make out
#5200 of 8644 Crankshaft pulley ruining motor
Aug 27, 2005 (6:12 pm)
I have a 98 Outback Wagon with 113,000 miles. The other day the driving belt popped off, I put it back on and it popped off again, immediately. I investigated and found the pulley for the crankshaft was at an odd angle when I replaced it the second time. I had the car towed to the mechanic and he said that the key holding the pully in place slipped out and may have ruined the end of the crankshaft. He will not replace the crankshaft on a Subaru and said the engine may have to be replaced. Anyone ever hear of this type of thing before?
I had the crankshaft seals replaced at 87,000 due to oil leakage. (It recently started leaking again) The pulley would have been removed at that point. Is it possible the pulley was not replaced properly and if so would it last 25,000 miles before slipping out?
He is a reputable mechanic, although sometimes his workers performance is not quite up to par, so I know he is not taking advantage of the situation for the money.
Any feedback would be appreciated.
#5201 of 8644 Re: problem [tpriester13]
Aug 27, 2005 (9:10 pm)
Another possibility is a weak/failing coil. They cost $75-80 so not the first thing to change. Roy
#5202 of 8644 2000 Shift Shock
Aug 27, 2005 (11:10 pm)
I've recently purchased a 2000 OBW with 87K and have noticed some shift shock when the AT shifts from 2nd to 3rd. Not consistant, but always when cold and never at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). Took it in to the dealer (60 day warranty) and they say they can't find a problem. I don't want to drive it until a critical failure happens, and I haven't seen any mention of this problem on the board. Does anyone have any input on this problem?
Otherwise I love this car. I was surprised by the amount of go the small powerplant produces, the handling and the ride. It's fun to drive, and I imagine the manual would be even better. I could forgo the wind noise that seems to come from the mirrors, but keeping the stereo up seems to fix that .
#5203 of 8644 Re: Crankshaft pulley ruining motor [yooper]
Aug 28, 2005 (6:24 am)
Im also a mechanic. i have also seen if you don't tighten the pully bolt tight enough it will do the same thing. To be honest with you it probably will cost you about the same for a new engine than to rebuilt. there is a place call Jap engines. you get used engines from japan for not too bad of a price. i haven't had any problems with their engines yet i have bought around 20 in three years.