Last post on May 20, 2013 at 10:18 PM
You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback
What is this discussion about?
Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Wagon
#4904 of 8642 Re: 1993 Legacy stalling problem [yessir]
Jun 15, 2005 (8:16 am)
Yessir, I have the exact same problem on my 93 Legacy with same mileage: stalls some of the time around 60mph on the freeway or going up a steep hill. Starts right back up about a minute later. No mechanics can diagnose the problem, and it has gotten steadily worse over about 2 years. I heard another episode of Car Talk about a Subaru Legacy where Click & Clack mentioned the Crank Angle Sensor or the Ignition Coil as possible culprits. I haven't tried these or the valve treatment yet either. I am taking my car in this week to try to fix the problem, so we can finally sell it. I'll let you know if we find the solution. Also, please post again if you find the solution for your car.
Jun 16, 2005 (6:48 am)
Hey everybody, I'm just about ready to do the 90K service for my 98GT wagon and I was wondering if anybody had this service performed in the denver metro area and how much did they pay for it. Also, is there a list of things that need to be done for this service so that I know I'm not getting charged for something I don't need?
THanks a lot.
Jun 18, 2005 (6:57 pm)
In July of 03 I bought my wife a used '98 Outback with 105000 (km) on the clock. The car seemed in all respects to be in great shape. In the following months, I noticed a burning smell each time she stopped after a highway drive. We live in a rural area and the car was getting almost all highway miles and use was straight ahead dry payment driving. After four months of ownership, the car developed a serious "clunk" in the rear end when turning a tight circle on dry pavement. This was especially bad when in reverse. A trip to the dealer found that the clutch pack needed replacement. A rarity according to them. The repair was carried out and afterward, the car performed flawlessly except for the continued burning smell that could be noted following a highway drive. This was just about every time the car came home since we live in the country. Nine months later and about another 30,000 km, the problem was back. The dealer was in awe and replaced the clutch pack without charge. I drove the car to Toronto a few months later only to have the pack bind up again. The dealer found that the clutches were undamaged this time. They kept the car a week trying to determine the cause of the binding and eventually replaced the outer axle bearings. Within a week, the binding returned. The dealer kept the car for two and a half weeks and replaced the inner and outer axle bearings, the housing, the control module along with the clutch pack and fluids. Apart from my initial payment for the first repair, I am only out my time and milage getting the car back and forth to the dealer who is about an hour's highway drive away. They have given me a replacement vehicle each time. My problem is that I now have a vehicle that I bought on the basis of reliability that I cannot trust. I have since discovered that plugging in a fuse will disengage the rear wheels. This stops the binding and puts the car into front wheel drive mode but doesn't really cure the problem. WHAT DO I DO? SHOULD I SELL OR REMAIN FAITHFUL TO WHAT IS SUPPOSED TO BE A BRICK OF A CAR? Wondering in Nova Scotia
#4907 of 8642 Re: AWD Clutch Pack [upppervaughans]
Jun 18, 2005 (7:54 pm)
I certainly understand your frustration, but under the circumstances, I think the dealer deserves a gold star for bending over backwards. Their investment in parts, labor and rental must by now exceed what you initially paid by 2-3x. And as the car is out of warranty, they are taking the full hit for this. I definitely think you should stick this out and hopefully the real cause will be found.
Now some thoughts, as some of the details don't seem to add up. Maybe I am missing something....
Clunking and binding on a sharp turn is usually a problem for the limited slip rear ends, but I guess could happen in any rear differential if it gums up. I assume limited slip was optional in '98 ??? But that is separate from the center diff which is located in the tail section of the tranny.
The smell that I have occasionally noticed, and others have reported seems to be from the center diff. Usually noticeable in my case after snow driving, or other aggressive situations when the center diff has been working hard to distribute power front to rear. Inserting the fuse disengages the electronically controlled clutch, putting the car in FWD mode. So it sounds like some of their effort has gone into the center diff. Yet it sounds like they have also changed out most of the rear axle components as well.
I have to admit that I am confused, and don't see the connection at this point. They changed clutch packs from the center or rear? Electronic module is definitely center, inner and outer axle bearings are rear half shaft related, "housing"(??) is what? Rear diff? / center diff? / outer rear axle hubs?
Keep us informed. I would love to hear what does the trick,
#4908 of 8642 Re: AWD Clutch Pack [fibber2]
Jun 19, 2005 (10:37 am)
Thanks for the prompt response, Steve. I tried to be as brief as possible with my original post and still get all the info in so let me clarify. First, I was looking for some feedback and you've given me that. My wife loves the car and wants to stick by it and with the work that the dealer has done, it really shouldn't fail again. Second, you are right about the dealer. When the car first failed only four months after my purchase, they were genuinely concerned to have me facing a major repair/bill so early into my ownership. The clutch pack and work they did that first time was warranted for a year. It was just over a year by the time they worked on it again but still Subaru Canada sprung for the bill. Since then, the dealer has paid the tab for a loaner and all of the time and materials they have put into the car. That makes four times in the shop with me only paying for the initial repair. You can't ask for better than that. Thirdly, let me try to clarify the repair. I am mechanically inclined, but didn't get to see the car disassembled which would have given me a better sense of what they did so I can only relate it second hand. My apology for the confusion. The binding created a noise that sounded as if it was coming from the back of the car but there was no real problem with the rear end. The binding and noise was coming from the center differential. This last time in, the service manager really didn't know what to do since she felt that they had done everything possible the last time. She explained to me that they started at the rear wheels and traced through to the center differential looking for anything out of spec. She said that something as small as uneven tire pressure could stress the clutch pack and cause it to fail. That was the reason for the axle bearings. There was some wear and they didn't want to ignore anything. The rear end was fine. The housing I referred to is in the center differential. She described the clutch pack as operating within a casing which can be damaged when the pack fails. Keep in mind that the clutch pack hadn't failed the last two times but they replaced the pack and the casing just in case. They also replaced the electronic control module as well as a valve assembly. I noticed on the work order that they substituted a 3.7 mm clutch pack with one of 4.1 mm. The service manager didn't mention this and it looks like they may have opted for something a little more heavy duty. So that is about as clear as I can make it. I really can't imagine that the problem can come back after all that they have done. Thanks again for the reply. I'm just looking for someone to second my decision.
#4909 of 8642 Re: AWD Clutch Pack [upppervaughans]
Jun 20, 2005 (7:57 am)
Yep, it all makes more sense now! The center diff comes into play on turns as well, so clutch pack binding could cause some wheel hop and smoke. Still, I am surprised that you have had so much trouble (not a common complaint judging from the posts on these boards). But you cannot beat the way your dealer has treated you.
Now as long as you do not run into any head gasket problems, you should have a good period of trouble free motoring.
#4910 of 8642 transmission problem in 05 legacy leaves noxious odor
Jun 20, 2005 (8:13 am)
The transmission in my 2005 legacy suffered a massive failure at 7,700 miles. After rebuilding transmission , repair facility tells me that the noxious burning transmission fluid odor can not be gotten rid of and that it must burn off over time. Does anyone know how to fix this problem so I can tell the Subaru dealer how to do it? They insist there is no solution.
#4911 of 8642 2005 Outback Rear Hatch Lock
Jun 20, 2005 (10:08 am)
Hey, I'm new to the forums here, and I just wanted to post a minor issue with my '05 Outback. The lock on the rear hatch was stuck, and my wife couldn't get the thing to close. I took a look and found a small piece of rubber blocking the metal part of the latch. I managed to clear the rubber, and the latch is working. It appears that the white plastic housing has cracked, and I will still need to have it replaced.
#4912 of 8642 Re: transmission problem in 05 legacy leaves noxious odor [puglover1]
Jun 20, 2005 (10:12 am)
If the oil spilled on the casing or undercarriage you could try one of those car washes that cleans those. Maybe get under there with some Simple Green and spray the surrounding areas before you rinse it off.
#4913 of 8642 Re: transmission problem in 05 legacy leaves noxious odor [ateixeira]
Jun 20, 2005 (11:35 am)
Thanks for your response. The Subaru repair supervisor told me the fluid is in sealed channels under the exhaust system and they can't get to it. Does this make sense to anyone? Has anyone else had this problem?