Last post on May 22, 2013 at 4:04 PM
You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback
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Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Wagon
#4802 of 8644 Add Fuel then won't start!
May 08, 2005 (12:30 pm)
I have a 1999 Subaru Legacy wagon that has developed a problem at least 6 months ago and as of yet is not resolved.
The problem is this: when you fuel upm the car doesn't want to start. This only happens immediately following the fuelling process. The only way to get it to start is to depress the accelerator until ignition occursm after which you may have to pump the accelerator to keep the engine from stalling. You can shut the engine off one (1) minute later & it will start fine. Very cold weather has no effect on starting.
The only time the problem arises is when I or a family member has to gas up.
Has anyone seen this before?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
The spark plugs and fuel filter have been replaced but there is no improvement.
#4803 of 8644 Re: Add Fuel then won't start! [rossa]
May 08, 2005 (12:56 pm)
Solution: Never add fuel again, and you won't have any problems starting (at least for a while...).
OK, seriously... One possibility that comes to mind is that something is messed up in the evaporative emissions system. Pumping the 'gas' really doesn't get you more fuel, but more air, as you are moving the throttle plate, and a sensor is then telling the engine computer how long to open the injectors. So it sounds like some signals are getting disrupted.
Most people 'top off' the tank, and on some GM and other cars this has caused the emissions systems to log a code, and even disrupt normal operation. Have you tried maybe filling up only 3/4 of the way, or something short of full? This would be a good first test. If it runs well, we can then look deeper into the tank venting and monitoring systems.
#4804 of 8644 trailer wiring for '05 Legacy Wagon
May 08, 2005 (7:07 pm)
My wife bought a new Legacy wagon and wants to pull a utility trailer. I said, "no problem, I can install that." It's so easy to say... I checked the price online for a plug-n-play trailer wiring kit and went to the local parts store. I bought a class II hitch, bolted it on and it fit like a glove. I didn't buy a wiring kit because they said they could only get a generic one that I'd have to splice in.
When I re-checked online, I found out that I can only by a trailer wiring kit for a Legacy OUTBACK wagon and not a plain legacy wagon. Unfortunately the parts guy at the Suba dealer was surprised to learn the same thing. Is this a marketing thing? Does anyone know if the '05 Outback wiring kit is compatible with it's lower ground clearance sibling?
Is there a valid reason why we shouldn't tow a utility trailer with this car?
If I opt to splice in to the tail light wires, are there any precautions I should take to make sure this isn't my most expensive option?
#4805 of 8644 Re: trailer wiring for '05 Legacy Wagon [brickdriver]
May 08, 2005 (7:56 pm)
I am kind of surprised that they didn't address this on the new '05 body style, as this was a source of irritation on the '00-'04 versions as well. OBW's came prewired (you still had to add the interface to drive type 1157 taillight bulbs found on utility trailers), but it was simply plug and play to a connector in the right rear fender well. Regular Legacy wagons required splicing.
The real problem, IIRC, was that in addition to the signal wires, you needed a fresh +12v supply capable of driving all of the trailer lights (something like 10 amps). I believe that the interface unit also acts as a buffer. It draws almost nothing from the cars lights - just a signal that something is happening, and creates a fresh drive on the 4 pin plug using the new +12v supply. If you simply 'tap' directly into the taillights without this, you might load them down, and some electrical systems really don't like that! Plus, you would have to change the trailer to match the separate turn signals not mated to the brake lights.
#4806 of 8644 2001 Outback Axle Problem
May 09, 2005 (6:04 am)
2001 Outback, 50k miles. After hearing noises when turning sharply (parking spots etc.) brought the car to the dealer in Philadelphia. Diagnosed as leaking DOJ boot... they ordered the part (under warranty) only to find the axle joint needed to be replaced. They ordered the new part and supposedly repaired the axle (also under warranty). My wife noticed the car was still making noises when turning sharply. We brought it back. Service mgr drove it with my wife and said "something is definitely wrong." So they had a look, tightened something (??) up... and said "it's safe, it's normal... blah blah" Now it's two days later, sound is almost as loud as when we first brought it in. And it makes considerable noise on a routine U-turn... no need to turn the steering wheel to the maximum. This next time will be the 7th time I've taken it in in 2 weeks, things are getting time consuming and frustrating. Has the problem been misdiagnosed? Is this a common problem? Are there any possible alternative problems that I should mention to the service techs? Should I take it to a different (and even more inconvenient) dealership? Wife is 7 months pregnant and we're wondering about safety issues as well. Any help would be much appreciated.
#4807 of 8644 Re: Add Fuel then won't start! [rossa]
May 09, 2005 (9:37 am)
I agree with fibber2. I have seen this problem before. The temporary solution is, as fibber says, fill the tank no more than 3/4 full.
The evaporative emissions control systems captures fuel vapors from the fuel tank and stores them in a charcoal canister until the engines draws the vapors into the intake system to be burned. If the the vapor tube pulls liquid fuel from the fuel tank into the charcoal canister, it can cause "flooding" when you start the engine after a fill up.
The question is Why is fuel getting into the vapor line going from the fuel tank to the charcoal storage canister? On some vehicles there is a purge control valve that could cause this problem. Sometimes, the charcoal canister needs to be replaced.
A good certified fuel system mechanic will know what to do. The 1999 Legacy is a good, reliable automobile. Many of them have 150,000 miles and are still rolling. It's worth investing in a few new parts.
#4808 of 8644 Automatic Seatbelts
May 09, 2005 (12:33 pm)
I have a 94 Legacy wagon with those pesky automatic shoulder restraints. Both of them have stopped working. My mechanic has quoted me $600 per seatbelt to fix them. Is this a repair that i should be able to do myself? I have found replacement motors for around $200 each. Would it generally only motor the fail? Or are there other parts that commonly fail on these belts? Does anyone have experience with this? Any help appreciated!
#4809 of 8644 Exhaust fumes
May 09, 2005 (7:35 pm)
I have Outback 2005 3.0L VDC. In the morning when it is cool around 50F and I startup the car 1st thing in thing morning. I notice the first few minutes a strong exhaust smell outside of the car if I go outside of the car. This dose not happen on a warm morning. The smell goes away after a few minutes. None of my old cars ever did this. This is the 1st time I own a 6 cylinder with dual exhaust, is that why? Is this normal? Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks...
#4810 of 8644 Center armrest extension for '02-'04 Outback Wagons
May 10, 2005 (7:07 am)
I'm considering buying an '02-'04 OBW but can't get a completely comfortable driving position because the center armrest is too low. Does anyone know if there is an extension available like for the Foresters or if the one for the Forester or Impreza will fit? I like the vehicle but I need to figure out a way to solve this. Thanks.
#4811 of 8644 Dealer Service Costs
May 11, 2005 (6:21 am)
I posted this yesterday, somewhere, but apparently not here????
Anyway, does anyone have an idea on how much I should expect to spend for a set of plugs installed for an 03 OBW 2.5L? Just trying to get a sanity check before I take it in for some of its 30000 mile work. Also, is there a way to inspect the timing belt w/o disassembling the engine?
Lastly, where is the PCV valve located on this engine? I think its on top of the intake manifold, toward the back left side of the center. But confirmation's been hard to come by.