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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

8644 messages,  Last post on May 22, 2013 at 4:04 PM

You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback Forum.

What is this discussion about? Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Wagon

Messages Page 238 of 865

#2368 of 8644 gas pedal, ergonomics by ahaymd

Jan 01, 2004 (12:37 pm)

Can some one please help me? My right leg is now in pain after driving my subaru legacy wagon for 15 minutes or more. I have spent hours and $500.00 trying to find a remedy. I had a 1991 subaru legacy SW for 10 years and never had this problem. I conclude that the newer subaru have less leg space, so that the outside of the foot sole is pressing on the gas pedal instead of the inner side of the foot sole (the ball of the feet). Also, I am 5' 10", and my right leg is slightly twisted. I have spend $500.00 of various cushions from two "back store" with limited space. I have talked to two other subaru owners with similar problems. They used cruise control, which is not possible for street driving. Can I retrofit the gas pedal, crave out an area (like the Honda Element does)? If I cannot find a solution, I am looking at the Honda's, which has more leg room for the right leg. Thank you

#2369 of 8644 Henry by c_hunter

Jan 01, 2004 (1:38 pm)

Have you considered re-positioning the pedals? That seems like the most likely fix to me. I know that short and handicapped people get the pedals customized, so it should be possible to track down a company that does this kind of work.
 
Craig

#2370 of 8644 Ergonomics Answer for Henry by grahampeters

Jan 02, 2004 (12:52 am)

G'day
 
The answer may be simpler than you think. I suffered agonies when I first bought my Mercedes with recurrent trips to a Physiotherapist to sort things out as I had intense leg pains. She then insited on looking at my seat position in the car, made a few suggestions and the problem righted itself. A check by a physiotherapist or ergonomist may be much cheaper than moving the pedals,
 
Part of the problem stems from the range of adjustments possible on modern cars, including Subarus. A lot of positions that feel comfortable when sitting for a moment actually cause problems when you try and drive. The back connection seems improbable unless you remember that you are stretching merves around the curve of your backside, if you are not sitting coorectly. If you strecth the nerves, the point where you will feel the pain is where the nerves end. Thus a stretched nerve round your backside might translate as sore toes because that's where your brain thinks the pain is.
 
Broadly, hips and knees should be on the same level.
Seat should be fairly upright.
Try and sit up rather than slumping.
pedals should be easily reachable.
Rearview mirror should be set initially and left. If you can't see out of it, you have slumped. Use the lack of vision as a reminder that you are damaging yourself
Alter the seat back occassionally to change posture
Use a lumbar roll (short sausage shaped cusion) or rolled up towel to apply pressure in lower back area
 
Of course, you could always use my great aunt's advice; "Sit Up Dear, You're Slumping" At least she won't make you change your Subaru seat to a straight backed kitchen chair to teach you how to sit properly.
 
Cheers
 
Graham

#2371 of 8644 by ateixeira

Jan 02, 2004 (8:02 am)

Only similar mod I've seen here is the seat track, some have made it so it goes back an extra inch.
 
Hope you find a fix.
 
-juice

#2372 of 8644 Tire Suggestions by buddhabman

Jan 02, 2004 (12:40 pm)

Moderately Priced
 
Bridgestone 950's - All Season - Best for all year sport driving.
 
Bridgestone 730's - Summer
 
Michellin Pilots - All Season
 
Summitomo - HTR II
 
Bigger Ticket
 
Bridgestone So3's So2's - Summer

#2373 of 8644 by c_hunter

Jan 02, 2004 (2:21 pm)

The RE-750 is a much better summer tire than the 730 (among other things, it's a lot quieter).
 
Craig

#2374 of 8644 Head Gasket - reasonable repair cost? by joenote1

Jan 02, 2004 (7:30 pm)

Hi, I have a 97 Legacy GT Wagon which first showed a Hot temperature Thanksgiving weekend. Unfortunately, it was Sunday on a Ski-scouting adventure, so I drove it home 1 hour, smelling of maple syrup. (I understand that's the antifreeze?) Subaru dealer changed radiator cap, oil, Dec.2 78253miles, but on Dec 18 78604 miles, it ran hot again. This time the dealer changed the thermostat, coolant, and I had them do a "level 2 service" just to check it all out. This week, Dec 30, the temperature gauge hit Hot barely 2 miles from home, so I took it back to the dealer. Today they checked it out, and said the head gasket has to be replaced, $2,200.
I've been reading messages, and it seems that it probably is a head gasket problem, but my question is, is $2,200 a reasonable price? I have no idea, but it's a lot of money for an 97 which is probably worth $8,000. Do I have any other choices but to pay?
Thanks for any suggestions ! Joenote

#2375 of 8644 Solution for common sharp turn "shudder" by idahodoug

Jan 02, 2004 (9:42 pm)

18 months ago, I bought a low mile '96 Legacy Wagon for my mother. Before bringing it to her home in MI, I changed almost all fluids, belts and hoses. It had 49k on it. I recently fixed an issue on it that many here mention and thought I'd post it.
 
About 4 months ago, she mentioned that she was experiencing a shudder that she also characterized as a binding feeling while turning sharp such as parking. I noted the vehicle needed new tires as they were not evenly worn, so she got new Michelins. Some help, but still could feel it less often.
 
When I was home over the holidays, I noted from my log it needed two items which were fresh brake fluid and a transmission drain/refill. She had only put 3500 miles on it. Before doing these changes, I drove it around and indeed it was exhibiting these symptoms both hot and cold, though more when hot. It would catch and release about 5 times during a 90 degree turn into a parking space.
 
After changing the fluid, I drove it around to see if my working theory was possible - that the system was working fine, but the old fluid (looked original - shame on me) no longer had the proper frictional properties for the electrohydraulic clutch to work smoothly. After about 10 minutes of determinedly turning circles back and forth in a parking lot, the symptom dramatically reduced in intensity. With a few days left in my visit, I returned the car.
 
A few days later, I again drove the car, and the symptom had completely disappeared. I literally could not make it bind even the slightest.
 
So, for those of you experiencing this symptom, don't get sucked into an expensive rebuild. Merely change the fluid by draining the 3-4 qts out of the pan and refilling via the tranny dipstick tube. Then spend 10 minutes turning tight circles back and forth to encourage the fresh fluid's detergents to start working what might have been minor deposits off/out of the clutch assembly. I'll have to find a source to more fully explain this to myself, as if it is not a 'wet' clutch in the auto tranny fluid as I suspect, then some other force was at work.
 
Anyone know this offhand?
 
This only applies to automatics, as manuals split their torque differently, BTW. Good luck and don't let your tranny oil go longer than specified.
 
IdahoDoug

#2376 of 8644 by ateixeira

Jan 03, 2004 (7:12 am)

No idea, joenote. But call 800-SUBARU3 to see if they can offer any help. It's a long shot, but ask.
 
Doug: some places will flush the ATF completely for $80 or so. Seems like cheap insurance.
 
-juice

#2377 of 8644 flush by idahodoug

Jan 03, 2004 (10:45 am)

Juice,
 
Yep, but it will take several hours of your day to accomplish. I spent $7.50 on 4 quarts and the drain plug can be removed with no jacking. Took me about 15 minutes.
 
In addition, I have concerns about flushes on cars that might have accumulations from going beyond the service intervals. Changing a few quarts at a time as called for is a milder way to clean things out. Of course, at some point the pan should be dropped and the filter cleaned/replaced

Messages Page 238 of 865

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