Last post on Jul 23, 2013 at 1:03 PM
You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback
What is this discussion about?
Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Wagon
#1848 of 8657 clutch chatter
Aug 27, 2003 (8:28 pm)
I had a clutch replaced at 12,000 or so miles in my 2002 Legacy wagon. I was so
relieved, until the clutch started shuddering shortly thereafter. I’ve just had a
second clutch replacement at 18,000 miles. I hope Subaru finally got it right. I
don’t understand why a clutch is a problem. They’ve been around for awhile,
and why wouldn’t Subaru install a working clutch from the get go? Isn’t Subaru
losing money replacing these clutches? Emma
p.s. I’m hoping the next time I have to go into reverse up (even a small) hill that I
won’t smell my clutch burning horribly...I’ve never experienced that with
clutches in other cars.
Aug 28, 2003 (11:29 am)
FWIW, I have 54k miles on my Forester's original clutch, a 1998. It shakes very slightly on a really cold, damp morning, but nothing bad enough for me to take it in.
#1850 of 8657 re: tire blowout
Aug 28, 2003 (1:53 pm)
Thanks for the additional input on the tires. Sorry if I snapped at the sarcastic comment; guess I wasn't feeling too good already about not replacing the tires before we left.
Regarding the air loss, the loss was only a single fill of a couple of psi, not anything that would make me suspect any kind of a real leak, unless I had seen it again. As I said, in hindsight (20/20) the air loss should have been an indication. I know the mileage was high, but I've run many tires over 60K with plenty of tread left and the tires in relatively good shape, and decided to replace the tires mostly because of handling in rain. In retrospect, the problem was likely a combination of a leak, the tire age, and the Oklahoma heat.
Idahodoug and ffsteve, thanks for your anecdotes about the tire shreddings. That is the most convincing information yet that it was probably just a flat that shredded.
And finally, yes I immediately had all 4 tires replaced!
Aug 28, 2003 (1:59 pm)
I had the clutch replacement done on my '00 OB about 6 months and ~8000 miles ago, and have had no chatter. The rest of the clutching action isn't as smooth as it was before (sometimes grinds downshifting), but it may just need some adjustment at this point.
Aug 30, 2003 (2:35 am)
...or anybody else..
I am at 20,000 Kms on my 2003 Outback LL Bean and am also on my third set of front rotors. The first were replaced at around 3,000 Kms, and just had them replaced again at 18,000Kms. When braking, I notice a slight twitching in the steering wheel and a very apparant vibration throughout the car. The dealer asked me if there were any hills around, and if I rode on the brakes a lot. While there are some short hills, (done at 50Km/hr) I do a fair bit of short distance highway driving. I think that I am fairly careful with the brakes, and did not have any problems with with my old Legacy.
Does any body have a recommendation for some heavier duty rotors for the car? I looked on Brembo's site, but didn't really see anything that would work on mine.
Any ideas would be great,
#1853 of 8657 Rust on the hatch
Aug 30, 2003 (5:08 am)
The rear bumper cover on my 02 Outback was installed a little too high. Accordingly, the lower left corner of the hatch was chafing against it, wearing the paint off, then rusting the edge.
After wrangling with dealer service I had to call Subaru brass for resolution. Subaru was very responsive,,, then the dealer snapped to it. I think I could have gotten a brand new hatch but didn't want to pursue it unless it was factory painted which was problematic with time, interfering with my plans to sell the car for a new one. Anyway, I opted for the auto body repair which turned out good.
Would like to know if anyone else has experienced this problem. If not, I would check your hatches where it meets the rear bumper cover and make sure there is clearance. If not, you will indeed be getting rust.
#1854 of 8657 BUCKING BRONCO SUBARU REVISITED
Aug 30, 2003 (2:53 pm)
I wanted to Thank all who had ideas regarding my 2002 Legacy. Juice and dhmccabe, I very much appreciate your feedback. I will share the results when I get the car back from the shop.
Sep 02, 2003 (6:47 am)
2003 Bean? Hmm, those already have the bigger rotors. I can't imagine it's their design. Strange.
Welcome, Joseph, keep us posted.
designman: interesting. The steel is galvanized, but the rubbing must have worn off even the zinc coating they apply to the sheet metal. Thanks for the heads up.
#1856 of 8657 Bean Rotors (sebberry)
Sep 02, 2003 (8:18 am)
Oh yes, my favorite topic. My '02 Bean has gone through a full set of rotors. I now have 17,000 miles and I still get an occasional (but not always!) pulsation when braking.
I tried to get Brembo's for the front, but they don't make the larger size for the Bean yet. I think the OE rotors are inferior in composition (I don't know lots about metalurgy or physics, but I do know that more warp resistant materials and manufacturing processes are available and cost more money, so Subaru may have tried to save a few bucks in the rotor dept.). As soon as someone makes a good replacemnt rotor (not drilled or slotted), I will be happy to try them out. You can see my previous post #1455 (copy below) and the responses for some more background.
#1455 of 1855 Aftermarket rotors for '02 OB - Suggestions? by blackbean May 13, 2003 (2:41 pm)
I am at 12K with my '02 LLBean OB and after having the dealer replace (not turn) the rotors at 1K, I feel the pulsing and vibration returning. I would obviously like Subaru to build a better rotor, but this is driving me crazy! I may just buy aftermarket products if a good (read "warp resistant") aftermarket rotor exists.
I see Tire rack offers EBC grooved sport rotors and greenstuff pads - total parts would be $484.
What do people reccomned for street use (not rally or race - but a slight improvement in overall performance without any other mods is fine).
Suggestions??? Expereinces? Prices? Sources?
Sep 02, 2003 (11:12 am)
To be honest, to accomplish that I'd just use the stock rotors with a set of Hawk pads.
FWIW, C&D did a full brake system test on the WRX, I'm sure it's very similar (perhaps even the same). They tested several kits.
Most kits required warming up, the Hawk pads with stock rotors performed well from the get-go. I think for most people that's ideal.