Last post on Jun 16, 2013 at 11:43 AM
You are in the Mazda Protege
What is this discussion about?
Mazda Protege5, Hatchback, Sedan
#1389 of 1419 Re: Catalytic converter problems [skallsac]
Jan 18, 2010 (7:51 pm)
catalytic converters generally don't go out on their own. Usually a result of misfires. If possible you should ask for the CEL codes the dealership pulled. P0300 is a misfire. (auto parts stores can usually do this, even after the fact).
if the car misfires, you'll know it and you'll get another flashing CEL
If that happens, my advice to you would be to invest about $200 in new ignition coils, spark plug wires, and spark plugs. If the coils have never been changed, they are probably overdue 108k. Check rockauto.com for the parts. OEM from mazda are insanely expensive.
igntion coils - * Airtex (5C1208) or Standard Motor Products (UF-407)
wires (short & long in a set) - NGK Part # 5659
plugs - NGK copper
labor - no more than 1 hour
#1390 of 1419 Re: 4-wheel alignment ever needed? [iamz]
Jan 19, 2010 (10:56 am)
Unless your P5 is not tracking straight or pulling when you let go of the steering wheel, I wouldn't.
Agreed. In fact that's what a Mazda service rep recommended to me when I asked the same question.
#1391 of 1419 Re: Random Starting [autonomous]
Jun 18, 2010 (3:34 pm)
I was/am having the same issue on my 2002 P5. now its worse. when the engine is cold it starts. when the engine is warmed up it either won't crank at all or it tries to crank then blows the injector 30 amp fuse under the hood. It seems to me it is a bad starter motor.
#1392 of 1419 Re: Random Starting [rockinr]
Jun 21, 2010 (3:47 pm)
my 2002 P5 ... a bad starter motor
Could be. It's an eight year old car, so it's likely it will need parts replaced. Personally, I'd have my garage check it out to make sure the right ones are being replaced.
#1393 of 1419 Not the starter motor
Jun 27, 2010 (1:48 pm)
I replaced the starter because it did test bad when it took it to the auto parts store.
This did not fix the problem. it still blows the main 30 amp injector fuse everytime i turn on the key and try to start the car. my car has been broken for 3 weeks. i reallt need to get it fixed. i can't afford to have it towed and repaired by mazda or a repair shop. someone has to know what tis problem is and how to fix it HELP! please
#1394 of 1419 AC near death experience
Aug 03, 2010 (2:16 pm)
It looks like the AC in my 2002 Protege5 may be breathing its last cool breath. The AC failed two weeks ago. After a diagnosis last week, my garage restored the AC by adding a solution to plug leaks. This may be a temporary fix if the AC compressor or other components are on their last legs.
Has anyone else had similar AC experiences?
#1395 of 1419 Re: AC near death experience [autonomous]
Aug 04, 2010 (7:26 am)
Mine still works on my P5 but the airconditioner at home is starting to fail. The AC on the P5 was always pretty week though from the start. I remember one hot day with a passenger in the car, it could not keep up and was fairly uncomfortable.
#1396 of 1419 Re: AC near death experience [iamz]
Aug 04, 2010 (12:01 pm)
I remember one hot day with a passenger in the car, it could not keep up and was fairly uncomfortable.
Ditto. A few weeks back while heading to Montreal ours conked out. Like Paul, I was suddenly converted to the worth of AC.
p.s. do you have your new Fiesta? They are all over the showrooms here but I haven't had a chance myself to take a look yet.
#1397 of 1419 Re: AC near death experience [autonomous]
Aug 05, 2010 (12:07 pm)
"p.s. do you have your new Fiesta? They are all over the showrooms here but I haven't had a chance myself to take a look yet."
Interesting. Seems they must be shipping them all to Canada then because last I heard from my dealer (this past Saturday) was that only 2 were in the twin cities (Mpls./St.Paul, MN)
I'm thinking, if I'm lucky, maybe by September. Ford really messed up the launch of these cars.
#1398 of 1419 HOW can I replace rear brake pads
Aug 21, 2010 (11:57 am)
I just tried to replace the rear brake pads on my 2003 Mazda Prootge5. Is there a special tool needed to depress the caliper cylinder? IF so what is it and where do I get it?
Do I have to bleed the brakes just to get it to depress?
On my previous vehicle, I used a C clamp to depress this cylinder. ON this caliper there is not single flat spot on which I could get a C clamp to attach. I tried another tool that fit inside where the outer brake pad fits and presses against the inner brake pad to depress the cylinder. Perhaps it was a cheap tool but the threads stripped trying to twist it down on the brake pad. I had to use a hack saw to cut it to get it out.
The current brake pads are worn and I want to get this accomplished soon. I have searched everywhere on the internet for an answer.
All the garages around here insist on turning the rotors and charging an arm and a leg for it. If I replace the pads now--turning them is not necessary. HELP?!