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Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair

1380 messages,  Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 10:41 AM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda Protege5, Hatchback, Sedan

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#1358 of 1380 Re: Over heating - help diagnose [gretsch6120] by iamz Jul 24, 2009 (8:43 am)
Replying to: gretsch6120 (Jul 24, 2009 4:43 am) Sadly, coolant flushes can sometimes cause a partially blocked radiator. If there was any gunk anywhere in the cooling system prior to your first flush, it might have come loose and lodged itself in the radiator. If thats the case, they could try flushing it out in the reverse flow of the original flush. I personally would never do an actual flush. Just a drain and fill.
#1359 of 1380 Re: Over heating - help diagnose [gretsch6120] by autonomous Jul 24, 2009 (11:06 am)
Replying to: gretsch6120 (Jul 24, 2009 4:43 am) >>How are your hoses to and from the radiator? No idea, what should I look for, cracking? Bad connections? Anything specific?   Yes, checking for cracks is good; you may want to get a hand held mirror and flashlight to help see around tight spots. Also, I check to see if they feel solid and not mushy and check at the ends to ensure they are securely fastened and are not leaking fluid.
#1360 of 1380 Re: Over heating - help diagnose by gretsch6120 Jul 25, 2009 (4:52 am)
Hmph -- so the coolant flush 15k miles ago could very be what got us into this mess...   Hoses will be checked. So my choices are to simply drain the system hoping the gunk will find it's way out, or reverse flush the system which could cause more gunk to loosen. Worse case with the gunk issue is we replace the radiator and hoses, yes? I see a replacement aluminum core Protege5 radiator runs around $150.   Thank you guys. Appreciate the kind support and advice. I will let you know what I discover.
#1361 of 1380 Re: Over heating by gretsch6120 Jul 28, 2009 (4:23 am)
Checked hoses last night. Didn't see anything to be worrisome. Still soft, no decay or cracking. Coolant level is still okay. We may be losing a little but nothing shocking. I did find something else though...   Drove home from work - 43mi - parked in the driveway, turned off the car. The coolant reservoir was boiling and the radiator fan was NOT running. I turned the car back on and the fan still didn't kick on. The engine room was obviously quite hot after the drive.   Could the fan or related be the issue? After shut off shouldn't this fan kick on using battery power to cool the engine? I wonder if it's not kicking on during driving either. Replies to this message: iamz (Jul 29, 2009 9:37 am) jack159 (Aug 12, 2009 1:42 pm)
#1362 of 1380 Re: Over heating [gretsch6120] by iamz Jul 29, 2009 (9:37 am)
Replying to: gretsch6120 (Jul 28, 2009 4:23 am) If the fan is not coming on, that could easily be your problem. Check the fuse that operates the fan first. If that is good, the motor should be easy enough to check by disconnecting the fans motor electrical connector and wire it directly to 12 volts. Keep your hands out of the fan blades. If those two are OK, the relay or the temperature sensor that turns on the relay would need to be checked. I couldn't tell you how to check either of those since I'm not really an electrical guy.
#1363 of 1380 Spark Plugs by oldman15 Jul 30, 2009 (7:42 am)
Owners manual states replacement as BP13 or BP14 NGK MAZDA   Dealers Parts dept show & stock as replacement BP01.   Anyone have any insight on the differences? Performance based upon differences?   Thanks. Replies to this message: autonomous (Jul 30, 2009 1:07 pm) oldman15 (Jul 30, 2009 4:36 pm)
#1364 of 1380 Re: Spark Plugs [oldman15] by autonomous Jul 30, 2009 (1:07 pm)
Replying to: oldman15 (Jul 30, 2009 7:42 am) My "Mazda" spark plugs are NGK and the code used on them is BP01-18-110. They have been fine for the last two years. Replies to this message: oldman15 (Jul 30, 2009 4:36 pm)
#1365 of 1380 Re: Spark Plugs [autonomous] by oldman15 Jul 30, 2009 (4:36 pm)
Replying to: autonomous (Jul 30, 2009 1:07 pm) That's what the dealership shows is the replacement. Wondering if they are different in any way to the OEM owners manual BP13/BP14. Thanks
#1366 of 1380 Re: Rough Ride on my P5 [alana3] by jack159 Aug 12, 2009 (1:04 pm)
Replying to: alana3 (Nov 01, 2001 7:30 am) I, too, noticed the rough ride shortly after I bought my car. Didn't notice this during the average short test drive, but have since found out that all P5's are built with stiff springs and shocks. This, no doubt, is designed this way at the factory to offer superior cornering and handling. I have owned many cars, including sport cars, and believe that other manufacturers have designed better compromised suspension systems and that the P5 is just too stiff.
#1367 of 1380 Re: Over heating [gretsch6120] by jack159 Aug 12, 2009 (1:42 pm)
Replying to: gretsch6120 (Jul 28, 2009 4:23 am) (1) coolant level is ok (plastic coolant bottle level - check with temp. gauge showing normal or below)     (2) check if engine temp. normal when driving on highway     (3) If it only overheats in city driving or very slow driving, then cooling fans are not coming on.     (4) turn on A/C....if fans come on , then fan motors are ok     (5) Then problem should be with fan motors temp. sensor or relay

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