- #1318 of 1380
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Engine Problems =S
by mavswimmer
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Nov 17, 2008 (12:35 pm)
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what would i look for, if i was to go down to my car now and check for signs of timing belt malfunction? I did take one of the plastic pieces bolted onto the bottom of the car, because it was broken, im almost finished fiberglassing it back together, but maybe thats how a foreign object entered and disturbed the timing belt?  
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- #1319 of 1380
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Re: Engine Problems =S [mavswimmer]
by iamz
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Nov 17, 2008 (1:43 pm)
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Replying to: mavswimmer (Nov 17, 2008 12:35 pm)
There really would be nothing to visually see unfortunately. At this point your best bet is to have it towed to your dealer or service garage. I am told the P5 is a non-interference engine so there is a good chance nothing serious is damaged. If the belt did slip you're going to need a new one. The other belts might need changing also. You're looking at about $800 for everything (give or take a couple hundred).
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- #1320 of 1380
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Re: Engine Problems =S [mavswimmer]
by iamz
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Nov 23, 2008 (6:41 am)
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Replying to: mavswimmer (Nov 17, 2008 12:35 pm)
Did you get it into the shop yet?
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- #1321 of 1380
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Re: Engine Problems =S [iamz]
by Countryham
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Nov 23, 2008 (7:15 am)
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Replying to: iamz (Nov 23, 2008 6:41 am)
I also have a P5 I bought 8 months age with 55k in terrific shape - the first time I ran it really hard, I had an incredible knock that sounded like the whole bottom end had fallen out. I took it to my mechanic the next day, and it showed a code for problem with cylinder #54- he replaced the plugs, and and it ran fine. The plug from cylinder #4 had the gap totally closed - how could this cause the bad knock? I thought the motor was toast. Then, last week while passing a car at high revs, it started missing and the check engine light came on - I took it back to the mechanic, and the same code -cylinder #4 -and again, the plug gap was almost completely closed. The mechanic feels the only way this happens is for something internal to be hitting the plug at high revs. What could it be? A piston or rod? I'm going to baby it for a while and sell it unless someone has a reasonable fix...
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- #1322 of 1380
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Re: Engine Problems =S [Countryham]
by mavswimmer
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Nov 24, 2008 (11:01 am)
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Replying to: Countryham (Nov 23, 2008 7:15 am)
This is a problem i also had with mine, cylinder4 and it would close the gap...basically how i fixed it, was buying some high dollar plugs, im for sure my plugs have closed gaps, i havn't taken my p5 to the shop yet, my dad would like to look at it, and he is returning to the country on wed...but basically, replacing a plug is not a big deal, might just be more compression occuring in the cylinder that should be happening at high revs...but my thinking is, it might be timing issues that cause this problem...because of the high revs...my view is, its a combination of both, maybe a timing check would be benificial...also like i said earlier the, the high dollar plugs seemed to have done very well...also when you pull your plugs check and see if the area ontop is all black, that would indicate you are running a very rich mixture in that cylinder....just some food for thought, maybe some worthwhile things to mention to your mechanic...
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- #1323 of 1380
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Re: Engine Problems =S [mavswimmer]
by iamz
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Nov 25, 2008 (9:50 am)
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Replying to: mavswimmer (Nov 24, 2008 11:01 am)
I can't fathom a guess as to why the gap of your sparkplugs is closing in cylinder 4 of your engines. That is frankly, scary. I'm not sure how far the piston clears the spark plug in normal operation but I would not think it would be within many 10s of thousands. And I would think it unlikely to have enough carbon built up on the piston head to make contact. Good luck to the both of you.
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- #1324 of 1380
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Re: A/C is always on [mdaffron]
by pete79
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Nov 25, 2008 (11:08 am)
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Replying to: mdaffron (Oct 10, 2005 7:35 am)
I keep reading the same answer over and over again...  "the air conditioner compressor is going to run to remove moisture from the car's interior that otherwise would cause your windshield to fog up". Compressors DO NOT remove moisture. They condense gas!!!  What condenses moisture is the cold coils running in the "evaporator" near the cabin's fan. But lets forget about this technical detail...
All these answers COULD be true if the air was recirculating (gizmo turned to take air from inside, not outside). But the fact is, at least with my Protege 2001 LX, that when you switch to "feet/windshield defrost" or "windshield defrost", the system AUTOMATICALLY takes air from outside. You CAN'T control that (only "feet" mode, although turning on the AC, allows you to turn back to "take air from inside" mode). The ONLY things this does are 1: Removes moisture from the OUTSIDE air before pushing it into the car (dry air is mixed with humid air in the cabin); 2: it eats more gas; 3: makes it very hard to set a comfortable temperature in the car during mild temperatures, which I get a lot in Quebec.
Now my questions:
1.Why did Mazda take away our FREEDOM of using AC as we wish????
2. Is there a way to turn off the compressor and avoid gas consumption/cold air production???? (removing the AC fuse from the car's fuse panel turns off all the controls for heating/fan... )
ANYBODY?????
Thanks!
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- #1325 of 1380
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Re: A/C is always on [pete79]
by iamz
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Nov 25, 2008 (1:29 pm)
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Replying to: pete79 (Nov 25, 2008 11:08 am)
You could start here;
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.eea5f4d/957!keywords=allin%3Amsgte- xt%20limit%3A.eea5f4d%20AC%20defroster#957
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- #1326 of 1380
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Re: A/C is always on [iamz]
by mavswimmer
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Nov 25, 2008 (7:24 pm)
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Replying to: iamz (Nov 25, 2008 1:29 pm)
it does help remove moisture, because the air is completely 0% humidity when the A/C is on...as to the carbon built up on the spark plug, its cylinder4 that is always black...2is tan(optimal fuel/air burn) and 3, and 4 are white...seen it multiple times from pulling the plugs, no exceptions...my thinking is, each injector is putting in different amounts of fuel/air mixture...any thoughts on why? is this a problem? worht getting looked at? might be worthwhile for everyone to check their plugs who's reading this, to make sure the two of us didn't buy pig-in-the-poke mazda's.....
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- #1327 of 1380
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Re: A/C is always on [mavswimmer]
by iamz
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Nov 26, 2008 (5:00 am)
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Replying to: mavswimmer (Nov 25, 2008 7:24 pm)
Countryham is not saying that carbon is closing the gap of his spark plug in cylinder #4, he is saying the gap is physically closed as in a bent metal electrode.
From his post;
" The mechanic feels the only way this happens is for something internal to be hitting the plug at high revs. What could it be? A piston or rod? I'm going to baby it for a while and sell it unless someone has a reasonable fix... "
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