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#34 of 62 Soon to be New Member by alsmsgctr

Apr 07, 2006 (3:54 pm)

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• tidester (Apr 07, 2006 4:12 pm)
• rdct (Apr 10, 2006 6:16 pm)
• mynxr (Jun 28, 2009 7:28 am)

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#35 of 62 Re: Soon to be New Member [alsmsgctr] by tidester

Apr 07, 2006 (4:12 pm)

Replying to: alsmsgctr (Apr 07, 2006 3:54 pm)

While you're waiting for a reply here you may also want to check out Towing tips for SUVs. And congrats, in advance!
 
tidester, host

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#36 of 62 Re: Soon to be New Member [alsmsgctr] by rdct

Apr 10, 2006 (6:16 pm)

Replying to: alsmsgctr (Apr 07, 2006 3:54 pm)

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#37 of 62 What do you say? by hockey8721

May 11, 2006 (9:11 am)

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#38 of 62 Re: Hello & Welcome! [KarenS] by itruck

May 18, 2006 (7:09 pm)

Replying to: KarenS (Oct 17, 2001 8:52 am)

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#39 of 62 2003 Excursion Handling by excursiondad

Sep 19, 2006 (7:39 am)

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#40 of 62 2001 Excursion PSD Performance Enhancement by pfoy143

Oct 03, 2007 (8:26 pm)

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#41 of 62 2005 Excursion PSD Performance by desrtroz

Oct 21, 2007 (8:29 pm)

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#42 of 62 2001 Excursion performance pulling tt by wcatruss

Nov 09, 2007 (7:15 pm)

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• rdct (Nov 10, 2007 8:48 am)

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#43 of 62 Re: 2001 Excursion performance pulling tt [wcatruss] by rdct

Nov 10, 2007 (8:48 am)

Replying to: wcatruss (Nov 09, 2007 7:15 pm)

We also have a 32' TT with full slide out weighing in around the same. 2000 X w/V10, 4x4
 
2800rpm was likely because it wouldn’t go back into O/D. If you’re not sure what it’s doing, in a safe place when you can concentrate, push the O/D button in to cancel O/D(is your O/D cancel light on the shifter working?), wait a bit, then turn it on again and see if the rpm’s change. If they don’t, you were never in O/D. If it never goes back into O/D under any circumstances, then you obviously have an issue. If you couldn’t get it to go back in only when towing, (A) were you still in hilly terrain, and (B) were you using regular gas? Hopefully you don’t have a converter issue caused from lack of regular fluid changes by the previous owner.
 
Not sure if you really have an issue or if you've discovered the same faults that I originally did during our first few trips. You may be merely experiencing the not-so-good- part of this truck. My opinion is that the tranny and the computer are the weak links of an X.
 
I find the computer changes power range after you've been into the pedal for a while. I'd love to snap my fingers and have a carburetor when I'm losing power. It seems to calculate for your throttle position and then give you less fuel at that position, because you had to hold it there too long. As if it figures, “hey, this is the new cruising position of the throttle, so I'll back off on the fuel delivery.” And then you have less power and end up laying into it even more but never seem to get that original power back that you started out with. Finding long down grades to get it back into O/D with your foot at a relatively light position on the throttle, seems to get some of that life back.
 
I can feel when I’m in the sweet spot. Takes a lot of concentration on that throttle and you need to take it out of O/D before the bottom of a hill so it can settle in and lock up the converter again before it tries calculating all the changes during the uphill climb. If in the sweet spot, the beast with go up hills with almost no extra throttle pressure and not lose a beat, like some magic is going on. If you have no choice and end up in that 4000rpm range you are on your way to the “where the heck did the beef go” range. And it never seems to come back that day, unless you shut it down for hrs.
 
I have gone to the extent of pulling over and removing the battery cables to clear the memory during a lunch break. Not sure if that works all the time, sometimes appeared to but other times didn't. (remember to idle a minute or two before shutting down to cool exhaust) Always seems at it's best when you leave home for the first few hrs.
 
A mechanic may be looking for something that he'll never find. If I'm right and the computer is just a little stupid, (which also seems to affect it's demented brothers, the tranny and the converter) an after market chip/on board adjustment computer may be a solution, though I've heard too many mixed reviews. I'd love to try one but will kick myself if it's a wash.
 
After having a Suburban with a tranny that I loved, (but not enough pulling power), I have never liked nor gotten used to the one in the X. I've seen it not shift soon enough when losing speed up steep grades, then hold the damn gear past the top of the hill and even down part of the other side, when it should have up-shifted long ago at the top of the hill when I started backing off the throttle.
 
On a trip to Yellowstone, we struggled to get over the first 12,000' pass, stopping 3 times before reaching the top because of absolutely no power, we learned together with another V10 person in the park, that we needed higher octane. We normally pulled with regular, but when driving thru mountains or anything other than flat land for that matter, we now use the highest octane available in the area and it has made a big difference. Helped in a trickle-down effect because the tranny and converter no longer have to make up for the lack of power/torque from essentially the wrong fuel.
 
Fuel filter maintenance - good to keep in mind at the rate of delivery in the 4000+ rpm area.
 
Keep that tranny fluid fresh. I’m anal and change it every yr. Lots of mountain towing. I do it myself so costs less than $90. Ours has never smelled burnt or showed any sludge or metal filings in the pan.
 
*******check and change your rear axle fluid. Often overlooked. If it isn’t honey golden color, and I have no doubt that it won’t be, clean out that diff and freshen it up. The front diff (4x4) will likely by okay. Just by the Ford stuff and make sure to buy the Additive. Ask at the dealer, they can advise if you’re doing it yourself. Save yourself unnecessary heat build up in the rear diff and resulting failure – remember it won’t break down around town – it’s going to do it at the worst time on a trip, likely up a monster hill.
 
The tranny is bullet proof if maintained, just a little dumb - leave it in O/D unless the terrain won't let it stay there for periods of approx 4mins, otherwise you will be building up heat shifting back and forth. If you find it won't maintain speed without jumping back and forth, suck it up and push the button in to cancel O/D and drive around the 2800 - 3200 rpm range. That's your power band any way. (keep that engine oil fresh and full for that kind of long-term high rpm’s – it’ll be fine) You'll only loose a mile or two per gallon - get used to the hum and vibrations at that rpm. I’ve done it numerous times for hrs at a time.
 
Some guys have changed gears from their stock 3.73's to 4.35's or as high as 4.56's. Gains fuel economy around town from shifting sooner, gains fuel economy when towing or at the least maintains what you had with less wear and tear, might loose 1 or 2 mpg normal hwy driving w/o towing. Costs $$$ though. Not worth it if you don't tow many times per yr. Anywhere from $1800 up, and it needs to be done by a really competent mechanic or you will have whining, grinding and subsequent issues.
 
You may want to join the Excursion club on the Ford Truck Enthusiast website (it's free http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum29/ ) for more opinions/info/experiences. The X is far more of a truck then the Suburban - I've had both, but you may never like the tranny. My advice would be drive it, maintain it, don't do any mods to it. It will get the job done but may not do it the way you'd expect all the time.
 
Overall – keep fluids fresh, full, and use high octane when towing. We have over 80,000 miles over approx 7yrs, lots of it towing, still stock, runs without issue, does what we need but can be annoying on long uphill drives. Learning to drive it at peak operation takes time. Hope this helps you to have more confidence in your truck.
 
Our #’s for ref – optimum conditions:
11 – 12mpg combined
13 – 15mpg hwy
6 -7mpg towing 70 – 80mph
8 – 9mpg towing 60mph or less