Last post on Dec 05, 2013 at 12:05 PM
You are in the Sedans
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet Malibu, Nissan Maxima, Mazda MAZDA3, Nissan Altima, Honda Accord, Honda Civic, Hyundai Elantra, Lexus IS 250, Acura TSX, Car Comparisons, Sedan
#3215 of 3637 Re: new Civic [benjaminh]
Apr 05, 2013 (1:35 pm)
We have both a Civic and a Mazda3 and they are about dead even actually, with the 3s being a much funner vehicle than my LX absolutely. Both are excellent vehicles with that "cheap to keep" mentality...heck, we are over 118k on the Mazda and after a repair of some motor mounts last year, it's like driving a brand new car and the wife won't let me sell it! You can't go wrong with either of them and personally, I prefer the Mazda now!
#3216 of 3637 Re: new Civic [sandman_6472]
Apr 05, 2013 (8:24 pm)
I mentioned the Vibe because the 2009-2010 was the new redesigned model. It's basically a 50% bigger Honda Fit. It has 111.5 cubic ft of storage space, the floors fold completely flat (and are coated in hard plastic like a bed liner). You can fit a refrigerator in it. (30" high items actually fit through the opening)
Those metal strips are rails for tie-downs. A nice touch.
The 2008 and older ones are a bit like a Corolla wagon, which isn't bad, really. But the 2nd gen are noticeably better. If we're talking econoboxes, getting some cargo space out of it isn't a bad thing.
I don't know why so few companies make small wagons any more. It's a shame, since a wagon is much better overall than a sedan of the same model. And, yes, they do make a Civic and Accord wagon in Japan. We just don't get it over here.
#3217 of 3637 Re: 09 Mazda 3 fully loaded vs 2011 Mazda 3 low miles [lakerskobe]
Apr 09, 2013 (2:52 am)
The effective way to use Carwoo is to counter offer. Since True Car receives $300 from any dealer making a sale via TC, the counter offer should be no more than several hundred dollars less than the TC price.
Personally, over the past four or five years, I have found it not difficult to buy under the TC price. Essentially the prices available on TC are set by the dealer and they are designed to intice folks who do not enjoy negotiating. They are really not much different than the no-haggle prices some dealers employ. While such prices often represent a substantial discount off MSRP, they are rarely the best price possible.
The best prices are almost always attained via the traditional negotiation process. Negotiations are most effective when they are based on research and knowledge.
An effective method to price a vehicle is to obtain, from Edmunds or other on-line sources, the invoice price, the dealer holdback, and the incentives available to both the dealer and customer. Reduce the invoice by the holdback and incentives. Add freight and whatever you think is a fair profit. The result should be our initial negotiation position. The negotiation should start at that price, not at MSRP which how the dealer wants to negotiate.
Also this calculation will reveal the true value of the TC price.
#3218 of 3637 Re: 09 Mazda 3 fully loaded vs 2011 Mazda 3 low miles [ltllady]
Apr 09, 2013 (2:59 am)
Your method is very effective, I have used it for years. There are three parts to many car deals. The pricing and financing are the easy parts, as long as the only word uttered in the F&I office is no.
The real problem area of many deals is the trade. I think it is very hard to get a real estimate of the value of the trade. My method is to take Edmunds, NADA, and KBB at the good condition level and average the values. I then add a bit if I believe, which we all do, my vehicle is better than average.
This calculation at least provides an idea of what I should expect for my vehicle. This process seems to work as I have always gotten close to my number. Of course, almost always, the initial offer from the dealer is a low ball number.
#3219 of 3637 Re: 09 Mazda 3 fully loaded vs 2011 Mazda 3 low miles [plekto]
Apr 09, 2013 (8:51 am)
I completely agree with you. Many people never learn because of fear of learning and/or false beliefs.
With that said, though, some people learn and can drive them OK, but still hate driving manuals, and others are not the most gifted, so it takes longer and/or they make more mistakes than most, so they don't appreciate driving them.
But I feel everyone should learn.
#3221 of 3637 What used car should I get for $8000-10000?
Apr 09, 2013 (9:16 am)
I am looking for a used car in the price range of $8000 to $10000 (preferably closer to 8000).
My preferences are: Japanese make, reasonably new (2005 and newer), 4 door sedan. Things high on my priority list are Toyota Corolla, Honda Civic, Mazda 3, Subaru Impreza.
Any suggestions? And any ideas what would be a good place to search for such cars? I feel craigslist seems to offer better deals than most websites, perhaps because the middle man is cut out so I can get it a little cheaper. Do you guys agree that craigslist is a good place to search for deals?
#3222 of 3637 Re: What used car should I get for $8000-10000? [litetaker]
Apr 09, 2013 (1:34 pm)
2009 Pontiac Vibe. You get a choice of a Corolla or Camry engine, and if you get the AWD, you get Rav 4 AWD components. I just found about 20 listings on another website in that price range. Enjoy.
#3223 of 3637 Re: What used car should I get for $8000-10000? [maxx4me]
Apr 09, 2013 (1:54 pm)
But Vibe is not a sedan. Any of the ones you list should be great cars. I'm not a fan of Craigslist, but if you know someone selling that's always good. I have had pretty good luck in that price range at used car areas of dealerships. Negotiate just as with a new car, and check value at edmunds or kbb.
#3224 of 3637 Re: What used car should I get for $8000-10000? [litetaker]
Apr 10, 2013 (1:44 pm)
The best car in that price range and criteria is likely to be a 2005 Lexus IS300. It's basically a Japanese clone of a BMW E36. It certainly drives almost exactly like one. But it's way more reliable than the newer BMW and Mercedes models. And they made a manual model. The 2005 is the last year of the first generation IS as well, so it's a bit more polished and the issues have been worked out.
The IS250 is too soft and underpowered, IMO. The IS350 is basically a Infiniti G35/37 competitor. Great, but lacking that "sport sedan" balance that you typically get out of a European car. And the current generation also cost a hefty premium as well. Similar to say, a Cadillac CTS - the first gen models are dirt cheap now compared to the more modern design.
The first poster has a much wider range of criteria and a lower budget. That said, the IS300 would also be a good second choice for him as well.
This is a typical example. Avoid dealers like the plague in the 8+ year old range as the car usually will either be vastly overpriced or salvaged or have some other issue. And you want paperwork as well on it, of course. Yes, he's asking $2K more for it, but it is low miles and you can haggle.
A bit over your budget, but not terribly so considering that you get over a basic Toyota.