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45 messages, Last post on Nov 21, 2001 at 6:17 AM
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Help, here are the symptoms: 93 Legend 94,000 miles. Car starts to overheat on occassion. Engine also then begins to occasionally surge. It revs from back and forth from 1,000 rpm to 1,500 in park. No heat comes out of the air vents when engine temp begins to climb to an overheated situation. I shut the engine down before it ever hits the red zone. I replaced the thermostat a week ago and refilled the radiator with coolant. I bled the radiator hose from the valve on the top hose and everything was ok for a week. Then samething happens. Park the car and check a few hours later and the radiator is low. I refill and bleed again. The next day engine temp ok, heat working. After about three hours, I take the cap off of the radiator since it was not hot but cool, and there is a lot of pressure and the fluid shoots out. What is going on here? Why is this car overheating and yet no heat is produced when it does? I am at my whit's end. Any help greatly appreciated. |
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| They did this to me also, but the first one was just a drain and fill. After it all turned brown I new what they had done abd called and they confirmed that they do just a drain and fill. So I spend 100 to get it all fluhed out. Now with the sludge and smoking , why did I bother. | |
| When the fluid is low you will not have heat,the high pressure is caused by bad head gasket and or cracked head,sorry. | |
| As joe3891 says, donlino, it sounds like a bad head gasket. A blown gasket can allows combustion gasses to be forced into the cooling system; causing your symptoms. It can also allow coolant to leak into cylinder(s) and thus into the crankcase. Since running the engine increases the likelihood of cylinder head warpage and bearing damage from contaminated oil, I would tow it to a capable shop right away. Your focus on bleeding the cooling system was correct but once you established coolant flow through the heater core, the system was purged of almost all the trapped air. | |
| Is the texaco longlife coolant the same as the Dexcool? I thought the GM Dex was made by texaco? I think I might switch to the Toyota red,in my mitsubishi montero. Currently using the texaco longlife Orange. | |
| I believe that DEX-COOL was developed by Texaco in conjunctionn with GM. Allegedly to provide a lifetime coolant, but more specifically to address the problem of GM's leaking intake manifolds on their aluminum head V-6's. The DEX-COOL has been linked to turning jelly-like in the coolant system. I can't prove it personally though. I would think though that this would occur after a long period of time possibly with some other problems in the engine. If I were you I would not rush out to change until the stuff is in there for say 30K or so. | |
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When incompatable coolants are mixed [not flushing out the system completely], they can react forming a gel IF left in years without changing. The problem is seen most often when the radiator is only drained [< 40% of total coolant]. |
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| that a backflush kit usually involves a tee valve in one of the heater core hoses, then screw in a garden hose on the tee valve turn on water open radiator cap and petcock run engine 20min or 30min usually will flush the system including the heater core | |
| When you read cooling system capacity does it also include the amount in the overflow tank to the cold level. | |
| They are another weak link in your coolant system integrity. Both times I have installed them I developed a hose failure there. If you are going to use one, buy a new OEM heater hose and install it before you put on the new hose (double clamp it) | |
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