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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions - READ ONLY

598 messages,  Last post on Nov 26, 2006 at 9:22 PM

You are in the Toyota Tundra Forum. Your Host is kcram

What is this discussion about? Toyota Tacoma, Toyota Tundra, Auto Body, Engine, Steering, Suspension, Transmission, Truck


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#510 of 598
Re: Tire/wheel change [msibille] by ustazzaf
Mar 05, 2006 (5:53 pm)

Replying to: msibille (Feb 25, 2006 4:00 am)

I just leased an SR5 Tundra with the X-SP package(available through SE dealers). The upgrades on the X-SP include 20 inch rims and low profile tires. Just read an article on line which states changes such as this are dangerous due to A) Increase in weight of rims effecting braking. B) Change in speedo reading c) Adverse alteration in handling D) Increase chance of rim damage due to low profile. Is any of this true? If so why would Toyota corporate allow such changes by dealers? Can I assume dealer recalibrated speedo? If I get a flat the spare is the original can I run the truck with an odd size rim e.g. 3 20 inch and one 17 inch?
 
A. I cannot believe that in almost 20 years of doing replacing tires for a living, I have never heard the weight issue, but it makes sense just like a heavier flywheel is harder to slow. Don't think ther is that much difference though by the time you factor in less tire weight. B. The speedo should have been adjusted if the truck comes with the package new. Also, as mentioned above, the outer diameter of the tire is probably close, which would make little speedo difference. C & D. Yes you will lose handling and increase possibility of damage to not only the rims, but also windshields, shocks, struts, body parts, other suspension parts, .... You have a significant decrease in sidewall size which would absorb alot of stress from bumps. Why do the manufacturers allow these safety hazzards on the highways? For the same reason that tire manufactures make them and tire dealers started installing them after refusal for many years...money. From what I saw, kids would come in with daddy's credit card to buy this junk and then return for repairs and new wheels with the same card again. Some argue that low profile tires are usually wider which puts more meat on the ground for handling. Ya, and if the tire is 30% wider, you also have 30% less weight on any given area of the tire. That is why skinny tires wirk so much better in water and snow. You have enough weight to keep the tires on the gound instead of riding up. On perfect pavement, you will likely get better traction out of wider tires. Hit a bump or a puddle and you will be on a carney ride.
#511 of 598
Squeaking noise from engine while moving - inconsistent by eppand
Mar 27, 2006 (11:16 am)

Replying to: ulmer62 (Dec 28, 2005 8:04 am)

I am having a similar squeaking problem with my 02 Tacoma PreRunner. The squeaking is inconsistent when happening, though it appears to happen more often when the temperature is cooler/cold (less than 40 F). The squeaking will stop when I release the gas pedal and I have to be moving better than 25 MPH. It does not squeak at idol or when revving the engine at idol to similar RPMS. Does this sound like a belt tensioners problem? Any advice?
#512 of 598
Re: Other lights go on when I apply Brake Pedal ?? [ndiemel] by mrvn2
Mar 27, 2006 (3:59 pm)

Replying to: ndiemel (Jan 07, 2006 3:41 pm)

I have a 93 pickup and have the same problem, I've check the bulbs ground , brakelight switch with no luck going to look for a plug or something coroded
#513 of 598
Re: 1989 4X4 6 Cyl. Ignition - How to rule out "Igniter Problem" [bphillips] by stepprk
Mar 28, 2006 (11:25 am)

Replying to: bphillips (Jul 04, 2005 7:17 am)

This is exactly the problem I am having. How did you fix your truck?
 
Thanks for your help.
#514 of 598
Re: Unlocking doors turns on cargo light [drjay] by ustazzaf
Mar 28, 2006 (6:00 pm)

Replying to: drjay (Feb 24, 2006 9:13 pm)

Odd Problem on my new 06 Tundra. When I unlock the doors with remote the light above the bed comes on. I have to turn it off via switchn on dash. Anyone see this before? Simple fix or trip to dealer??
 
Not only should the light go out after a predetermined time, but if you take off it should go out at about 3 MPH. If time shuts it off but not driving, you need to go back to the dealer. It is a safety thing to not be on when driving.
#515 of 598
other lights go on when stepping on the brake by mrvn2
Mar 31, 2006 (1:59 pm)
#516 of 598
other lights go on when stepping on the brake by mrvn2
Mar 31, 2006 (2:05 pm)
HELP !!!!! my right directional lights go on when I step on the brake pedal and the brake lights flash with the right directional I have checked the grounds and sockets, replaced ALL bulbs and the flasher...no luck For some reason the + side of the turn and brake /parking lights are connected ... any Ideas ???
#517 of 598
toyota thundra 2003 by joe544
Apr 09, 2006 (5:16 am)
I have a 2003 thundra , every time it sets for more than a week the battery goes dead. I have had it at the dealer 3 times. The dealer said that is normal for all the electronics on it. I don't think it true. Has anyone else had this problem ? I think it has a short in system some where.
#518 of 598
Re: toyota thundra 2003 [joe544] by msibille
Apr 09, 2006 (6:05 am)

Replying to: joe544 (Apr 09, 2006 5:16 am)

If you have replaced the OEM battery, then I would be a bit surprised that the battery is dead after, say, 8 days.
However, if you have the original battery in it, it's quite possible. The sulfation of the battery over time results in flakes of the plates falling to the bottom of the cells. The cells have some empty space at the bottom to accommodate some of this without shorting the cells, however, eventually, some of the material will short some of the cells. This weakens the battery by allowing additional internal discharge and reducing the amount of active plate area. Most lead acid automotive batteries succumb in 4-5 yrs. (some make it far longer, some croak in 3 yrs) Prior to becoming completely useless a large part of the reserve capacity is lost. (Most of my batteries have died in the early winter, often I find the prblms right after the first cold night or two, when the early morning start up requires the most oomph from the battery.)
 
Anyway, the point is that if you have a 3 yr plus battery, it may serve you for another year or so if not forced to maintain a charge for more than a week without recharging, but it may not be all it was before.
 
OTOH, it should be possible to disconnect the battery and test the leakage in the system to determine if it is above spec.
 
If you have a relatively new battery, the vehicle should be able to sit idle for a week or two and still start.
 
When you say the battery is dead- do you mean completely dead (nothing works, no horn, cab lights, radio, nothing?) or will it just not start the vehicle?

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