Last post on Nov 26, 2006 at 9:22 PM
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Toyota Tacoma, Toyota Tundra, Auto Body, Engine, Steering, Suspension, Transmission, Truck
#374 of 598 Replacing O2 sensors
Jul 06, 2005 (5:20 pm)
This may be a stupid question for those who have done this already, but what is the procedure for replacing the O2 Sensor on my 00 Tundra. I looked at these for a minute the other night and couldn't plainly see any head to mount a wrench on securely. Any help would be apprecitated.
The history of my 2000 Tundra goes as follows. It is a SR5 4wd Access Cab V-8 that I purchased new in May of 2000. It had some vibration problems in the begining and was remedied with a couple of tire balancings. I installed new pads in the front at around 45000 miles. I had a transmission problem starting around 53000 miles. It would shift so hard it felt like it was going to blow then it would run fine. It was in the dealer several times for this and everytime they said they couldn't pinpoint the problem. It finaly went at 58000 miles an she was done. I was given a Matrix for a loaner while they replaced the tranny with a new one. This took them 4 weeks to get the tranny and another few days to fix. They had my truck for 27days and the bill would have been $2800 but it was covered under warrenty.
I installed a set of Goodyear AT/D tires and they might has well have been square on this truck they drove like crap for two years till I couldn't stand it anymore. I replaced those with a set of Bridgstone Dueller HL alenzas and they are awesome. The parking brake seized around 80000 miles and then I developed a slight vibration at braking. I had the rears inspected and they said they were fine but wanted to charge over $400 to replace the front rotors and pads. I was able to get the best pads and two new rotors for $121 out the door and did it myself. This was done at 96000 miles along with changing the spark plugs and gear lubes. Unfortuantly I still have a slight vibration that I think is a warped rear drum. It has developed a slight exhaust leak that is likely a crack in the header.
The truck now has 102000 miles and the check engine light just came on for the first time. I reset it and it was off for a day then came back on again. All in all it's been a great truck but has had more problems than any other of the 4 Toyotas I have owned. I want to dump this truck and get a new one but I want to wait to get the new plastic bed on the Tundra and I would really like diesel. I may be shopping for a domestic diesel soon if the price is right. I thought I would have 0 problems with this one to 120000 miles but it was not the case here, and miine is far better then alot of those on this and other websites.
Hope somebody has an answer for the O2 Sensor replacement I figure I can do both around a hundred cheaper then the dealer can do one for. So what do I have to lose .
#375 of 598 Re: Replacing O2 sensors [mitundra]
Jul 07, 2005 (4:47 am)
Not sure if it's the same as my Mustang, but there's a special socket for an O2 sensor. Did you run the codes to be sure it's the O2 sensor that is causing the check engine light?
#376 of 598 Re: Front drive train noise [jesse]
Jul 07, 2005 (11:51 am)
I have the same noise with my 04 Tundra (Crew Cab). The dealership has been great about trying to figure out/fix the problem, but as of today the noise is still there and I am still not happy. Long story short - rubbing/vibrating noise associated with front diff/driveline most noticeable between 10 and 25 MPH. Noise goes away in 4WD. It is NOT the tires - they replaced all of my tires with a better brand and the noise stayed. It is NOT the fluids - they replaced all of my diff fluids and the noise remained. They have had several techs and regional service reps look at it and the last answer I got was that it is probably some type of design flaw that does not affect the safety or performance of the vehicle. It is just VERY annoying - especially when I am paying over $30K for the thing. I could have bought two vehicles for the same and probably never had an issue! The tech said that the front diffs that he has replaced because of the same noise only made the noise worse. That has led him to believe that the noise "gets better with time" as the diff loosens up...not a good answer. Not sure what to do next - probably write a letter to Toyota, but will get nothing more than satisfaction of complaining. I don't expect much more help...I will be trading the vehicle in as soon as I can break even.
#377 of 598 T100 1995 V6 4x4 xcab need aftermarket muffler
Jul 07, 2005 (7:38 pm)
Can anyone suggest a good aftermarket replacement muffler for a V6 T100 4x4 xtracab? I don't drive the truck much except on icy roads to work in the winter. I bought it new in 1995 and have 45K on it. The muffler has rusted out and I want to replace with a low back-pressure flowmaster or some other brand, hopefully in stainless so it doesn't rust out from short trips. I checked some of the on-line muffler 'selectors' but haven't found anything except OEM Borsal at $131.
#378 of 598 97 Tacoma lowering problem
Jul 11, 2005 (1:57 am)
I recently lowered my taco with a 3/4 drop, a kit by DJM. The rear is great the front though is a problem. I have 18" rims the stuck out past the fender and now rub BAD on turns. Any suggestions, might have to remove the front part of the kit. Can anyone tell me if a prerunner fender will fit my 2WD Xtra Cab?
#379 of 598 Harmonic noise @ 40-50 MPH in 04' DC
Jul 15, 2005 (9:38 pm)
I purchased a 04' DC used with 24 k on it and pretty much since day one, it's had a humming noise coming from the rear of the truck. I chalked it up to wind noise but reading through the forums I'm wondering if there isn't more to this noise. It really only happens around 40-50 MPH and sounds almost like a harmonic imbalance. Anyone else having this same noise? I read through the problems others have had with their shocks but I don't believe it's that. Any help/suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks
#380 of 598 2003 toyota tundra
Jul 16, 2005 (3:30 pm)
My tundra now has 75,000 miles and the check engine light comes on. I've reset it many times but it continues to come on. I've checked it with the computer analyzer and it says I have small leak in the evaporization control system. What should I check ?
#381 of 598 94 T100 starting issue
Jul 17, 2005 (7:27 pm)
I've got a 94 T100 with the 3.slow v6. Wouldn't start the other day, so I jumped it from a buddy. Happened again, so I checked it out. Battery was good, pulled the alternator and took it to O'Reilly's. When they checked it out they said it was okay, putting out 14 volts. When I brought it home and put it on the mult-meter I was looking more at 13.0 to 13.5 volts. Is there any reason that anyone could think of that the alternator would put out less juice when installed? Or was the guy at O'Reilly's trying to get out of a warranty swap?
#382 of 598 Re: 2003 toyota tundra [buckeyedwt]
Jul 20, 2005 (4:53 am)
Cheap and easy things first-
Check your fuel cap O-Ring for cuts, cracking, etc. that would prevent sealing.
Check the filler neck for gouges, dents or dings (maybe from some ham-fisted station attendant? - I actually had someone fill my rental car in Alberta last month!)
Then, check for any obvious physical damage to the canister, check the vapor line between the canister and the fuel tank, check other lines from the canister.
Check for leaks between fuel tank and engine compartment.
#383 of 598 Re: 94 T100 starting issue [eschneid]
Jul 20, 2005 (5:00 am)
Generally 13.5 to 15VDC is in spec.
* Your meter or OReilly's (or both) is a bit off. (I'm willing to bet that there's no calibration sticker showing the last time it was checked to a standard. -But then, neither is there one on mine at home.)
* Belt slippage and/or low RPM.
Check the engine rpm to see if in spec.
Try speeding the engine to 1100 rpm or so and recheck.
* Ground issues. Where did you measure the voltage?
Did you carefully check the ground connections? Btwn battery and chassis, engine and chassis, alternator and chassis? A bad ground will not only cost you voltage in charging the battery, but may also offset the output of the alternator.
(Actually, for nearly every 12VDC system problem, the first thing to check is the condition of grounds.)