Last post on Nov 26, 2006 at 9:22 PM
You are in the Toyota Tundra
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Toyota Tacoma, Toyota Tundra, Auto Body, Engine, Steering, Suspension, Transmission, Truck
#366 of 598 Re: Taking On Water [curtmann]
Jun 29, 2005 (12:39 pm)
Hi, My 2004 Double cab was recently hit while parked and the driver and passenger doors had to be replaced. After getting it back, from the certified toyota body shop, I found a leak exactly as you explained. I had it in to the dealership body shop about 5 times and every time they explained that it had no leak. Finally the manager came over to my house to see the leak because he felt that it was due to the angle it was parked on that was caused it to leak. After I recreated the leak for him there, we parked a new 2005 tundra there and it leaked as well. This just happened today. I am waiting to see what they do, but I expect Toyota to step up to the plate and fix this problem. I could have purchased a GMC or Dodge for around $8,000 dollars less than I paid for the tundra. The ford that I parked in that spot for two years prior to this truck never leak. Other than the leak, I love the truck... Good luck keeping your tundra dry.
#367 of 598 '95 tacoma 2.7L having seizures!
Jun 29, 2005 (5:22 pm)
Ok i usually dont post on these things but i read my chiltons and this forum and i am not so heavy on EFI so i thought i'd see if anyone else had the same issues.
while driving if i get on the gas too hard the motor will hesistate and stumble real bad...but if i gradually step on the throttle there's not an issue ( fyi 5 speed manual trans) it also has difficulty starting ...but once started the issue isnt as severe as when i've driven it for awhile. I already changed the fuel filter ( what a nightmare, i wish i had the hands of the 8 yr old for that!!) the check engine light is on...but i was wondering if anybody knows or has any "its this stupid!!!" fixes ...i have a feeling its something really simple ..
as a note i am in the navy and it sits for awhile sometimes and it started immediately after i drove it up onto a curb one day parallel parking and came down of the curb kinda hard ....when i returned is when the headache began...it wouldnt start and i had to get home...so i pulled the fuel filter and poked a hole in it as a get my butt home fix and it worked but with the stumbling when my right foot got heavy (theres was no check engine light initially). i put a new one in.....and it was better but has gotten worse over the last 2 or 3 weeks and also i guess the 76 stations around here (western WA) had been sellin crappy gas too and thats where i was goin at the time..
#368 of 598 Re: Security Alarm [buffalonickel]
Jul 03, 2005 (9:47 am)
Has any clarification of this problem been offered by Toyota?
#371 of 598 1989 4X4 6 Cyl. Ignition - How to rule out "Igniter Problem"
Jul 04, 2005 (7:17 am)
This is an update of sorts from post 347...
Briefly, I had an '89 Toyota 4X4 6 Cyl, and driving down the road, the thing kills just like it was pole axed. I mean, driving fine one second, dead as a hammer the next second (See Post 347). OK, so I am no mechanic whatsoever, but I was gonna scratch and grab a bit and see if I could figure out what's wrong before sending it somewhere, with a bit of help from a Chilton's Guide and a Hayne's Guide.
Now, I didn't even check to see if it was getting fire, which in hindsight I probably should have first off....
I pulled the glove compartment out and also the cover from the inside passenger side sidewall to see the "computer" (I am assuming the "computer" is the ECU per the guides), because the boy who owned the truck before me had a similar problem and said that a "wire had come loose from the computer". He didn't fix it personally, but that was the best of his memory what the old boy who fixed it said it was.....he seemed to recall that it was a "red wire", maybe one that had something to do with "the battery"????, but this could all be incorrect. I am just stating it to try to give as much info here as I can. I couldn't see anything obviously wrong, so I figured I'd look at the timing belt (the reason there is because the same old boy who had the "computer problem" had a similar problem twice...once was this mysterious "loose computer wire" and the next time was a timing belt problem, one in which he said that some sort of "keyway pin came loose allowing it to jump timing"...again, I am merely repeating what he told me.
I pulled off the timing belt cover first off just to see what it looked like...the belt looked fine, and I turned the crank until the little marks on the camshaft gears (?) lined up with the marks up above, and the rotor was passing where the #1 cylinder contact would have been had the distributor cap been on, and the timing mark was where it should have been, so I knew it wasn't a problem with the timing (please excuse any improper terminolgy...like I said, I am no mechanic whatsoever, and I am relying on a Chilton's Manual the same way any layman would use a medical surgical journal to do surgery on somebody....I am that mechanically retarded).
I noticed that the distributor cap contacts looked like unmitigated hell, the worst that my father had ever see, and the worst I had ever seen, but of course I have seen very few myself. Four of them looked like something that had been exposed to brine, and were more than rusty, they were absolutely corroded. So, I went and got a new rotor, distributor cap, along with air filter, spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, oil and filter, belts, figuring I'd change the whole nine yards while I was in there...we really figured that the problem was the distributor cap after seeing it. I changed everything out, and having broke a bolt from the distributor when I took the cap off, as well as breaking off an ease out in the little bolt, I cleaned the distributor real good and used two bolts as well as a tiny bit if RTV to keep the distributor cap on. All spark plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap had been changed. I tried to fire the truck up, still no go.
Well, THEN I checked to see if I was getting fire, and I wasn't. My dad, who knows a bit about mechanics but a helluva lot about electronics after working 35 years as an Installer for Western Electric/AT&T Technologies/Lucent, got a multimeter and started poking around, and he told me that the "coil was bad". What he did, as he FINALLY explained it, was "Ohmed it out....checking the primary and secondary coils in relation to each other, and the primary coil". He doesn't explain anything to idiots like me...we speak different languages, and he said that "he could not explain what he did without a schematic"....when I first asked him what he did to check the coil, he acted like it was ABSOLUTELY IMPOSSIBLE to explain, even if he were to try to explain it someone else "who was versed in electronics". I kept imploring if not begging him to tell me what he did so that I could post this accurately, and eventually that was when he told me that he "ohmed it out....checking the primary and secondary coils in relation to each other, and the primary coil". That was like pulling teeth, and I consider myself EXTREMELY lucky to get that out of him...those 18 words took about 18 minutes to get. Now, I was standing there when he did this check on the coil last night, but I had no idea what he was doing, and he used two multimeters to do it, even doing it again with the removed coil later inside the house.
Well, I scratched around and finally found a coil at an AutoZone about 40 miles from here, so I picked it up and put it in the truck, and tried to fire it up, assuming 100% that this would be it and it would be a done deal....still wouldn't crank! My Dad got the meter out, checked at the new coil with it, said it was good, and asked to look at the old coil. I got it, and when I was bringing it out I dropped it, and when he checked it again, he started scratching his head, looking confused. He said that the old coil was "[now] good"....so, where we stand with that is assuming that he must have screwed up testing it last night because the thing surely didn't heal, and dropping it wouldn't have "fixed" it. The thing is that he checked it several times last night, and we still don't know how he could have screwed up like that. He thought for a second that maybe the coil wire had somehow been "burnt" and there was a slight gap between the burnt ends that the drop may have "reconnected" enough to make it "OK" again, but that was mere hypothesis, and he is the first to admit that he doesn't know anything about the manufacture of these coils. He KNOWS what he's doing with schematics, but we simply assumed that he must have screwed up testing the old coil, and that it was actually good all along....that's all we can assume.
So, he checked to see that "the battery was getting to the igniter and coil", and it was. The coil is definitely good now, but we still are not getting fire from it. He figured that maybe it was the igniter, but we are wondering how to go about ruling out that it is the igniter without having to buy one and swap it out.
I assume that is what we need to check out next...the igniter....it would surely seem that it is the igniter, distributor, or the ECU, but how would one go about checking that out? If there was at least a way to rule out the igniter, that would be a good start.
I aplogize for the length of the post, but I am a firm believer in if I am going to ask someone for advice, I REFUSE to do so unless I can explain the situation as fully and as explicitly as I can. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
I would love to know what the results were from Post 354 (91ota) after his mechanic traced the problem out, but I couldn't email him, as his email was pr
#372 of 598 2005 toyota tacoma prerunner-ignition problem
Jul 04, 2005 (12:17 pm)
I just bought a new 2005 Toyota tacoma prerunner last week. Its a manual 5 speed and I have problems with getting it to crank of the first try. Its starts up the second time perfectly and runs great. Its just annoying that its brand new and doesn't start right away like most new cars should. I am taking it in to have it inspected tomorrow by toyota dealer ,but has anyone had the same problem?
#373 of 598 A/C not working on 2002 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 TRD
Jul 06, 2005 (9:39 am)
Recently my a/c went out on me. I took it to the shop and was told that either my compressor or condensor (cant remember) was melted and needed to be replaced. The mechanic also said that it would be 500 to replace (the part) and another 500 for service. seemed a little steep so i wanted some opinion on whats going on
#374 of 598 Replacing O2 sensors
Jul 06, 2005 (5:20 pm)
This may be a stupid question for those who have done this already, but what is the procedure for replacing the O2 Sensor on my 00 Tundra. I looked at these for a minute the other night and couldn't plainly see any head to mount a wrench on securely. Any help would be apprecitated.
The history of my 2000 Tundra goes as follows. It is a SR5 4wd Access Cab V-8 that I purchased new in May of 2000. It had some vibration problems in the begining and was remedied with a couple of tire balancings. I installed new pads in the front at around 45000 miles. I had a transmission problem starting around 53000 miles. It would shift so hard it felt like it was going to blow then it would run fine. It was in the dealer several times for this and everytime they said they couldn't pinpoint the problem. It finaly went at 58000 miles an she was done. I was given a Matrix for a loaner while they replaced the tranny with a new one. This took them 4 weeks to get the tranny and another few days to fix. They had my truck for 27days and the bill would have been $2800 but it was covered under warrenty.
I installed a set of Goodyear AT/D tires and they might has well have been square on this truck they drove like crap for two years till I couldn't stand it anymore. I replaced those with a set of Bridgstone Dueller HL alenzas and they are awesome. The parking brake seized around 80000 miles and then I developed a slight vibration at braking. I had the rears inspected and they said they were fine but wanted to charge over $400 to replace the front rotors and pads. I was able to get the best pads and two new rotors for $121 out the door and did it myself. This was done at 96000 miles along with changing the spark plugs and gear lubes. Unfortuantly I still have a slight vibration that I think is a warped rear drum. It has developed a slight exhaust leak that is likely a crack in the header.
The truck now has 102000 miles and the check engine light just came on for the first time. I reset it and it was off for a day then came back on again. All in all it's been a great truck but has had more problems than any other of the 4 Toyotas I have owned. I want to dump this truck and get a new one but I want to wait to get the new plastic bed on the Tundra and I would really like diesel. I may be shopping for a domestic diesel soon if the price is right. I thought I would have 0 problems with this one to 120000 miles but it was not the case here, and miine is far better then alot of those on this and other websites.
Hope somebody has an answer for the O2 Sensor replacement I figure I can do both around a hundred cheaper then the dealer can do one for. So what do I have to lose .
#375 of 598 Re: Replacing O2 sensors [mitundra]
Jul 07, 2005 (4:47 am)
Not sure if it's the same as my Mustang, but there's a special socket for an O2 sensor. Did you run the codes to be sure it's the O2 sensor that is causing the check engine light?