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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Toyota Tacoma Prices Paid and Buying Experience
1036 messages, Last post on Nov 08, 2009 at 10:05 AM
You are in the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum. Your Hosts are car_man & kyfdx
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Replying to: zzyzx (Aug 09, 2008 6:41 am) 1) It's an '09 and not yet "distressed" inventory. 2) It's probably a 4-cyl and because of fuel prices, they are selling very well. In SoCal where there are like 60 dealers who all compete, there aren't even any rebates on the remaining '08 4-cyl! Probably because they're all gone. Pop for a V6 and bam! $1500 rebate. There's not a large spread between invoice and msrp on the base ac's. I would shoot for invoice - $500 over on that particular vehicle. Just my opinion. |
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I am looking to do my first lease and I am still a little unsure how to know if I am negotiating a good deal; I am between a '08 Tundra and '08 Tacoma; I am located in Milwaukee, WI 53227, Tax rate 5.6%, and fall into a Tier 1 credit rating The 2008 Tacoma I am looking at is as follows; DoubleCab 4x4, Short Bed, TRD Sport Package MSRP: $30,375 w/ delivery Can anyone tell me what money factor and residual will be on this truck; I'm looking at doing a 3 year/36K mile lease and hoping to walk away with just 1st month, taxes, and registration. Let me know what you think the best possible deal I can walk with this truck is. The dealer said they have a $1000 rebate through August and an additional $1500 if I can register it under my business name. Thanks! |
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| My husband and I are looking at the 2008 Tacoma Double Cab 4x4 Automatic. We are in Southern California. What good quotes are people getting in Southern California? | |
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I turn my 98 toy in next Friday and Im trying to get into a 2009 Prerunner Access cab 2WD, 4Cy, manual. Can any one define the terms used here: TMV TMF DHB hold back rebate cash back My local dealer said he would sell me one at $300 over invoice but it sounds like you can skinned in 4 directions by toyota. Thanks Jim |
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FYI....How to buy your next truck/car 1. Go to Carsdirect.com. Follow the instructions for the vehicle you want. The cost that they show is approximately the cost to the dealer (minus any dealer incentives, holdbacks, etc) 2. Go to NADA.com. Go to the vehicle you want. The dealer maked-up costs are shown side-by-side with the actual cost to the dealer (minus any dealer incentives, holdbacks, etc). 3. You could also purchase a new vehicle report from Consumer Reports. It will show the maked-up dealer costs as well as the actual cost to the dealer. This report will also show you the dealer holdbacks and any known dealer incentives. I tried all three to see how close they were to the vehicle I'm looking at. Surprisingly they all were within a couple hundred dollars of one another. The methods above are all great ways to understand approximately what the dealer pays for the vehicle, and make sure your getting a reasonable deal. Good Luck, and have fun with it.
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Replying to: raventoes (Aug 24, 2008 5:14 pm) 1) Know what the vehicle you want is worth. I used the TMV from Edmunds as my reference, as it appears to be an attempt to determine the market price rather than the sticker price, but I cross-checked that value against Kelly Blue Book. 2) Decide whether you're in love with the car or determined to pay a fair price. If you're in love with the car, pay the sticker price and save yourself time and hassle. If you're determined to pay a fair price, get a couple of quotes then stand your ground. Especially in today's environment, the dealer wants to make a sale at least as much as you want to buy. Be prepared to walk out and do so if the dealer refuses to meet you, or at least get pretty close. In our case, I was ready to split a $400 difference but then the "manager refused". At that point, it was my price or no deal. When they finally realized we were serious about getting our price rather than theirs, they blinked. 3) A fair price is likely to be closer to the invoice price than to the sticker, depending on the model. If it's a slow selling model or a year-end close-out, you may be able to do a little better. If the economy is strong or the car is hot, be prepared to pay more. If your objective is to get a vehicle for well under the invoice price, it's my opinion you're probably wasting your time. Generally speaking, the dealer has to do better than break even and it is highly doubtful they will sell below their real cost. 4) Read link title to understand the dealer's thought process and the game you'll have to play once inside the dealership. Remember that the sales teams job is to make the largest possible profit for their employer (the dealer). Your job is to limit the dealer's profit to a reasonable level 5) Remember point number 2. If you're really in love with the car, they win. We knew what we wanted and had a very satisfactory, low mileage, used vehicle lined up to see two blocks away, so we were not bluffing when we walked out. We essentially paid the invoice price less a nice cash-back incentive on a brand new vehicle. Other than the color, which I mostly could care less about, we're very pleased with our purchase, too. 6) Also, be calm and polite but firm. No sense getting an ulcer or a heart attack. They probably hear people scream and shout all the time. They're used to rejection. Just keep telling them over and over again that you've done your research and the price you've offered is a price you think is fair. |
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Replying to: jackellis (Aug 24, 2008 7:42 pm) I negotiated over the web entirely until I found the right price/deal. Invoice from Edmunds is $25575, with the clearance cash back my final price was $24468, plus TTL and their dam doc fee ($290). I feel like it was a good deal and the time was right. There were very, very few DblCab Long beds left and most dealers didn't have any, so a bit of searching on my part and finding the ones that were left dictated the dealers to call/email. Oddly, I did find a DblCab/Longbed without the sr5#2 (totally base!), but the dealer thought they were sitting on a gold mine, so I bought the sr5 instead for about $400 more than what they wanted for the base model. I did buy the 100k mile warranty for $1400 so they may have got some of my savings back. I was a bit peeved over that because I got the hard sell and wasn't prepared for it. I thought to myself... 'why do I need to see the business manager, we've already got a deal???'. Anyways, perhaps I could have saved a few hundred on that, but I don't feel I got totally sharked. ps a few weeks before the absolute best deal I could find was $26k...
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Replying to: robtaco (Aug 26, 2008 8:53 am)
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Replying to: cal4 (Aug 26, 2008 9:03 am) its fluff basically. I think by law they have to retain documentation for so many years, so its just another way to get a few bucks... |
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