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Pickups Toyota Tacoma Toyota Tacoma Care and Maintenance
184 messages, Last post on Jun 02, 2009 at 11:32 AM
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Replying to: billybob1 (Sep 30, 2004 8:23 am) Sway is normally referred to when towing, and is affected by small turns, bumps, and the aerodynamics. Roll is where the body tends to "roll out" toward the outside of a turn, particularly under hard turns/high speed. Some roll is unavoidable, unless you eliminate spring suspension and ride a vehicle like an old fashioned kid's Western Flyer red wagon. It's due to the acceleration of the mass toward the center of the turn radius by the force applied at the wheels, which is below the mass. The resulting moment will load the outboard springs more heavily than the inboard, resulting in roll, and at extremes, will lift the inboard wheels off the ground (also like that little red wagon...) Sway is mostly a vibrational system phenomenon, which is affected by the tow vehicle mass, the towed vehicle mass, lengths of each, tow bar length, in addition to the roll stiffness of the vehicles, aerodynamics of the vehicles, and the damping between the two vehicles. Primary rotation of Sway is about a vertical axis, but the resulting turns induce roll, similar to an intentional turn. Anti-sway systems are generally an effort to dampen the system, to absorb the energy induced by a disturbance so that the natural frequencies of the system and disturbance(s) don't cause the cycle of sway to go out of control. This is one reason why (true) trailer tires have stiffer sidewalls than passenger tires of the same load rating. The stiffer sidewalls raise the natural frequency and assist in damping the (secondary) roll induced by the sway. If you're getting a lot of roll in a hard turn at high speed, you may just need to slow down in sharp turns. |
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I have a 1986 Toyota 2WD pickup which has run fine since I bought it new. However, it just quit firing last week. The problem is that the drive gear on the shaft of the distributor has slipped down on the shaft and locked up on the floor of the compartment. It completely dis-engaged from the camshaft drive gear. The teeth of the distributor gear have been broken and will require the gear to be replaced or the distributor itself. I'm an old coot who has worked on cars all my life but, I have never seen this before. Does anyone know if this is a usual or unusual thing? Tia, MagTx |
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My dad gave me his 92' 22RE 4x4 pickup w/ 155k miles. The engine looks like it needs some TLC since its dirty. Some questions: 1) When should i change the distributer and plug wires? 2) Can I switch to platinum plugs like Bosch's 4+? 3) Do I really need to repack/grease the wheel bearings every 30k miles? 4) Next to the brake master cylinder there's a small reservoir. Is that for the clutch fluid? When should this be changed? 5) What else do I need to do to keep this baby running to 400k miles so I can jump and say "Oh, what a feeling?" Thanks in advance for responses.
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I have 85K on my 98 4 cylinder Tacoma, 2WD. Clutch pedal comes out a good ways before engaging clutch. Seems to grip OK, but I smell it occasionally. I am not a hard driver. About 20K miles are highway, rest are local. Is this typical clutch life? Can I inspect for life left without dropping the trans? And yes, I am quite ignorant! Thank you.
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Replying to: tomg49 (Jan 06, 2005 2:11 pm) Is this typical clutch life? Can I inspect for life left without dropping the trans? tomg49: The way one drives, the topography, whether you tow or not, and many other factors determine the life of that clutch. Even the materials the clutch is made of affect the life. But I can tell you that my son owns my old '94 Toyota Hilux and with 160,000 miles the original factory clutch is doing just fine. We live in Ozarks in MO. and we have some hills and windy roads that used to be cow paths, so the clutch hasn't had an easy life. One thing the Toyota service manager told me was that whenever you find grinding, sticking, and a hard time jamming the gearshift in reverse, then maybe it will be time to take a serious look at the clutch. B |
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I have a 2000 Tacoma Prerunner that has a locking rear differential. Every now and then, the rear makes a squeaking noise, sometimes very loudly, when I take my foot off of the accelerator. It has absolutely nothing to do (as far as I can tell) with the braking system. Any ideas as to what may be causing the problem, and what I can do to fix it?
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Hi all.. Just took a test drive in a 2005 Tacoma. The sales guy told me the first scheduled maintenance is at 120,000 miles. Until then, it's just an oil change every 5000 mile. Is this true? Thanks for any info, jan |
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Replying to: jmourik (Jan 31, 2005 9:53 am) I just looked over the maintenance schedule for my 2005 Tacoma... Kinda yes and kinda no! We have to rotate tires every 6 months and inspect brakes every 6 months If you get a Tacoma with the 1GR-FE engine, the spark plugs are replaced every 3 years. (Which is surprising to me, because that's my engine!) The first major maintenance is replacing the timing belt at at 90,000 miles or 108 months. Of course, these are for normal driving...if a person drove in extreme conditions, they have more maintenance. Listen to all salesmen with skepticism, that's for sure! Rick
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Replying to: engineerboo (Feb 01, 2005 7:53 am) Still looks pretty good though! Looks like most maintenance jobs should be fairly cheap... jan |
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