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Pickups Toyota Tacoma Toyota Tacoma Care and Maintenance
184 messages, Last post on Jun 02, 2009 at 11:32 AM
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| I purchased a pair of Challenger brushed stainless steel oval running boards for my new 04 Tundra DC. Its actually a dealer part and direct bolt on. $359. No drilling required and installed in a snap. I had factory running boards on my 94 Toyota pickup that were nice too, but the drawbacks were that they collected salt/dirt over time and seem to help contribute to my doors rusting on the bottom that occurred over a 10 years period. Plus they were steel and the paint flaked/rusted over time too. The Challenger steps are strong with four mounting hinges. I read alot of the posts of the the tundra solutions forum board on the net. Most said to stay away from the black or chrome painted steel and buy stainless. Don't know if this helps. | |
| I purchased Performance Products tube steps for my 2001 Tacoma - they also supply for Tundra. Easy installation and no after-installation problems, but you do need a torque wrench to do it right. Took about 2 hours to spend crawling and wrenching. I highly recommend the chrome-on-stainless choice. Appearance is great. | |
| Today in frigid NJ I jumped my garaged '74 Hilux so I could run it a little before a coming snow storm. I try to run it once a week to keep it up in cold weather. After the jump, I could start it but it would not idle at all, but stall. The "CHG" light also came on and stayed on while I would goose the gas to keep it running. I tried to run it around the neighborhood but with all the stalling it was just too dangerous. Did I burn something out during the jump? The turn signals strangely enough would not work either, but the 4-ways would. I checked the fuses and they were all intact. What the heck is going on, any ideas? thanks in advance. | |
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I've done my own maintenance on my 1993 Toyota Pickup and at 189,000 miles can't say that its been bad for the vehicle. I stopped bringing it to the dealer 4 years ago when they charged me $65.00 to change my manual transmission fluid - about $5.00 worth of oil. A regular oil change at the same dealer uses about the same amount (4.5 qts) of oil and was only $19.99 which should cost even more because they have to install a new oil filter too. What's up with that? Rip Off. Now I change all the fluids myself. The peace of mind I get knowing I'm not getting ripped off is well worth my time and getting a few cuts and scrapes on my hands (none if I'm real careful). I also had an independent mechanic try to tell me my transmission was gone (at 177,000 miles) when all that was wrong was a shifter linkage bushing. Thank goodness for a really sharp friend & Toyota parts dude and the Internet, that's how I figured out and fixed the problem with a $9.00 part. So I try to do almost everything myself, except for starter and fuel filter replacement - a bear on this model truck. Unfortunately the independent shop had installed a new clutch in an effort to diagnose before I stopped them, but with 90,000 miles on the old clutch I figured it was not really a rip off I guess. But I'll bet the old clutch would have lasted much longer. Sure, by now the '93 truck is out of style but it will have 200,000 miles on it by this summer, and Gosh is it cheap to run!  - P.
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Sounds like something electrical happened during the jump. At first I thought it might be an electric choke issue, but if the CHG light stays on when you give it the gas, it's probably electrical. I had that happen once on a 1966 Plymouth Belvedere, I burned out a fusible link and the alternator gauge when I replaced a valve cover (shorted the wires together when I bolted the cover on). That problem took 4 months for me to find, and caused the lights to be dim, battery not to charge, and many calls for towing in the cold Northeast. Did the cables reverse by accident, even for a brief moment? You might also want to check your alternator and/or voltage regulator to see if anything's burned out there. Does anyone know if parts stores will test alternators for free or do they charge (no pun intended)? - P. |
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| I have not even burned my first tank of gas yet, and I am already thinking about my first oil change. How soon should I do it (for the loose, break in particles, etc.)? And, when I do it, should I go sythetic blend, or totally sythetic yet? Or, not do sythetic at all? Any guidelines to follow here? Thanks. | |
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I have a 2002 Tacoma. How do I adjust the headlights? The dealer tells me he's done it right, but I think the lights shine too high. Thanks in advance.
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Is anyone familiar with the spark plugs on the V8 Tundra Engine? I believe it is the 2UV-FE Engine. I have a 2003 and the manual says there are spark plugs but when I look at the engine, where the spark plugs should be there are flat rectangular black caps. The caps have a bolt holding them down adn there is a four pin connector attached. Following this wire to the harness, I find that the other 7 similar caps lead to the same harness and the harness goes in a large black cover on the front of the drivers side valve cover. So I assume these rectangular caps are the spark plug covers and the black cover on the front of the valve cover is the distributor, but this leaves me with one issue. Why four wires leading to the spark plug and why are they so small? Normally spark plug cables are much thicker due to the high voltage.
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Found an answer somewhere else for a 2000 Tundra. I assume it is the same. They are located under each coil boot...Instead of one ignition coil like in older vehicles...each spark plug has its own coil boot. |
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