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Toyota Tacoma Care and Maintenance

184 messages, Last post on Jun 02, 2009 at 11:32 AM
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Hi, basically bedliners fall into two obvious catagories- drop in and spray on. Advantages to a TOP quality drop in: -correct one is custom fit to your truck -will protect your bed better than spray on because of thicker material -if liner becomes damaged, it can be pulled out and replaced (the spray in liners do become damaged over time) -no overspray or wobbly edges if done poorly -you don't have to worry about the bed being completely clean before putting it in -cost is usually lower because of less labor Disadvantages to any drop in: -water can collect under the liner and rust your bed faster Advantages to a TOP quality spray in liner: -can be color matched to your truck, can even be multiple colors (from an experienced technician) -tighter, more perfect coverage -built in texture, stuff doesn't slide around as much in the bed -no manufacturer name molded into the liner, you can make the bed as smooth as possible Disadvantages to a spray in: -built in texture can be rough on things you don't want scratched (you included) -once it's there, it's there, even if it's a bad job (very tough to remove, redo, or touch up) |
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Disadvantages to any drop in: Noise - can rattle on rough roads. Paint wear - movement between liner and painted bed can wear through paint (in spots) leading to rust. Advantage: smoother surface = easier to clean. |
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Have a 1990 two wheel drive with 67,000 miles. Want to change fuel filter but can't find it. Thought it was underneath by right rear wheel. |
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Ref: fuel filter. Never mind I found it. Changed it. Although I don't think that is my problem. The engine seems to "buck" or cut out, rough idle. It bucks when I stop accelerating, or on the level when foot is just resting on accelerator. Started out by changing plugs, then spark plug wires, then distributor cap and rotor. All top quality parts. Oh yes, a can of drygas also. Any thoughts on the matter appreciated. |
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| You might want to look for a vacuum leak. On older cars the advance/retard on the distributor was a common cause for this, but I don't know how that relates on newer engines. Another thing to look at is fuel pressure. | |
| At 30k, my owners Manual recommends oil change,replace engine air filter, Spark plugs (not sure why so early for plugs), engine coolant,and overall inspection of other components. The dealers 30k check up recommends replace trans fluid, diff fluid, pcv valve,fuel filter along with inspecting everything else.They're asking between $340 to $380. Any reason why there's a huge difference from owners manual to dealer recommended 30k maintenance? I'm considering doing my own maintenance checkup following the owners maual recommendation. Chilton only covers Tacoma's up to 2000. I assume the engine for 2000 and 2001 are simular. | |
| The reason for the difference between the dealer's recommendation and the factory's is the $340-380 worth of needless work for the dealer's service department. | |
| Yeah, I was kinda thinking that myself. All the more reason why I've decided to do the work myself according to my Owners manual service schedule.Does anyone know if the mechanical and electrical layout for the 2000 and 2001 are similar? Chilton reps tell me they won't be printing a book for the 2001 Tacoma any time soon. The current book goes up to 2000 (same with Haynes). That's fine with me if the parts are in the same place. | |
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My '96 2wd Extra cab has 57K miles on the clock and needs new shocks. I was thinking of using KYB Gas-A-Just front and rear. The Chilton manual makes it sound pretty straightforward. Is this something that a reasonably practical person could do? Are there any major complications or problems I might encounter? Thanks, Jon |
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I am about to buy an 04 Tacoma 4x2. The dealer is suggesting that I buy the extended warranty up to 100,000k. Should I? Is it worth the value, or is it just a dealer's ploy to make $$$? Please advise ASAP - today is the day for the purchase.
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