Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Pickups Toyota Tacoma Toyota Tacoma Care and Maintenance
184 messages, Last post on Jun 02, 2009 at 11:32 AM
You are in the Toyota Tacoma Forum. Your Host is kcram
We have a 99 2wd Tacoma. Its a great little pickup. very reliable. no problems, with 60 plus k on it now. we keep getting a mailer from our local dealer, telling us that we are overdue for our 60k maintenance. It will cost $500.00. We kinda of don't really feel that we need to have anything done, we regularly change the oil and have replaced tires and do what is ever needed if something goes wrong. I'm wondering if anyone has any opinion about this? Should we just go do it? I always feel that if it ain't broken don't fix it. Maybe I'm wrong?.....I'm sure there are things that we haven't done but should we??? We also hate the mechanics at this place but its local and convenient..but we really don't trust them.
|
|
|
Replying to: mauigrom23 (Mar 27, 2005 6:04 am) |
|
|
Replying to: msibille (Apr 16, 2005 12:00 pm) In response to that comment from post #106.....At startup, the oil pressure is high enough that the filter is bypassed anyway, so it does not matter if it is prefilled or not. Full synthetics do cost more, but they provide a level of lubrication that cannot be attained with conventional oil, and more importantly, don't break down as fast as conventional oil (so that 5W-30 you put in keeps its 30 ability and you aren't stuck with 5 weight oil protecting your engine). This has to do with the polymer chains in the oil.
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: peggy5 (Apr 26, 2005 12:53 pm) One thing you might want to do at every 30k mile interval is change out the coolant. |
|
|
Replying to: dtyler (Apr 28, 2005 6:37 am) First- there is zero oil pressure when you first start, unless you have your engine equipped with an electric oil pump or one of the accumulator systems that were marketed to minimize the risk of damage to turbocharger bearings in the 1980s. (Most main-stream mfrs do not equip engines with those.) If you want to see it for yourself, change the oil and filter on your engine, turn on the ignition but don't start, allowing the instruments to come on line. Then start the engine and watch the oil pressure gage start at zero and build to operating pressure. No gage- watch you oil pressure warning light when you start. It will certainly stay on longer after an oil and filter change if you don't prefill the filter than after a normal start. Synthetics vs. conventional- the chains are essentially the same, it is just that a higher percentage of them will be of the same length/viscosity. Synthetics are assembled from the same source as conventional motor oils, the chemical bonds are identical - no magic here. So, the same shearing will occur in a synthetic as a conventional oil, albeit you will technically start with more of them at the "ideal". Nevertheless, by the time you've done the mechanical shearing of enough of the chains in conventional oils to be an issue, the oil is already suffering from contamination and should be changed. To use a synthetic to prolong the interval, merely means you drive with progressively contaminated oil for a longer time. One place where this MIGHT be worthwhile would be with an engine burning propane or LPG and running a significant amount of mileage. Since the engine is much cleaner burning, fewer contaminants are making their way into the oil. If we're not talking about short trips that allow for more condensation to accumulate, as well as time for the contaminants to form acids, then a synthetic could be used to extend the interval between changes without risking damage from contamination. The oil has 3 enemies - contamination, oxidation, and mechanical shear. A synthetic is not anymore contaminant tolerant than a conventional oil. |
|
|
Replying to: peggy5 (Apr 26, 2005 12:53 pm) Dealers increasingly use marketing methods that list all sorts of services for an "X thousand mile service" at a given price. The list makes it look like you're getting your money's worth, but often these services are not called for as frequently by the mfr's manual (and who does the testing and design, your dealer or the mfr?), and sometimes the listed items aren't even applicable. (I really like the one in the booklet from my wife's Honda dealer where they list lubricating the U-Joints. First, most passenger cars and vans have been equipped w/ permanently lubed U-Joints since the 1980s and more importantly, the vehicle is front wheel drive so it HAS NO U-Joints!) Use the manual's list of services, then get pricing from the dealer on each of those services that apply. Now you can compare those with prices from other sources that you trust.
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: msibille (Apr 29, 2005 12:00 pm) My local Subaru dealer does this. They offer a $600 30k "special" where 80% of the items are either "if applicible", and they aren't, or are "inspect" checkoffs. I sometimes wonder if "inspect" in dealereze means check off the box from the desk. If you actually followed Subaru's guide, the service would be $125, AT MOST, at dealership prices, maybe $45-55, with your labor and OEM parts. Read the manual like msibille recommends. I'm a self maintainer who has no problems going to a pro when necessary. Many dealerships are simply out for a money grab. |
|
|
Replying to: 5150 (Dec 29, 2004 4:47 pm) I know it's been a few months since your post, but here's what I hope will help you and others: My '93 2wd pickup with the 22RE 4-cyl engine & manual trans. just turned 210,000 miles. I've had it since 100,750 and my experience regarding your questions has been the following (use at your own risk, consult a professional mechanic first): 1) When should i change the distributer and plug wires? I changed mine at 208,000 miles. No noticeable improvement in gas mileage, but they look better. I think the truck has more power, maybe. 2) Can I switch to platinum plugs like Bosch's 4+? I only use the original NGK spec in mine. $6.00 at local parts store but they only last about 15,000 to 20,000 miles. I clean them every 10,000 miles or sooner sometimes if the idle gets rough. 3) Do I really need to repack/grease the wheel bearings every 30k miles? No. I repacked mine once at 162,000 when I replaced my front rotors, and the wheel bearings (and brakes) have been fine since. 4) Next to the brake master cylinder there's a small reservoir. Is that for the clutch fluid? When should this be changed? Yes. I change the clutch fluid by bleeding the system every 2 or 3 years. 5) What else do I need to do to keep this baby running to 400k miles so I can jump and say "Oh, what a feeling?" The following: Long trips over 8 hours at a time are one of the things that keep my truck running like new. At least once or twice a year I try to do this New England to DC, Georgia, or Minnesota are great for it. What helps mine is to run it up the long steep hills at WOT (wide open throttle) in high gear - low RPMs, and slow increase in speed, but WOT. Just a few of these and I can tell all the carbon is gone & I have a new truck again. The accelerator gets so much more responsive! Clean the throttle body with Gumout or equivalent every 20 to 30,000 miles. I use a toothbrush to get into the throttle plate - but be careful! And replace the air filter. I clean my air filter (shake out and vacuum) and the box it sits in every 5 to 10,000 miles (costs nothing but my time). Change the oil when it gets dark brown. Don't let it get black and funny smelling. I change mine every 3,000 miles in the winter, and 4,000 miles in the summer (with long highway trips). I let my truck warm up some, even in the summer. I know this is a religious issue, and I waste gas, but I'm the one whose laughing all the way to the bank in a truck that's destined for 300,000 miles! I don't start out until the idle has come down and the exhaust starts to vibrate & drone a bit. 3 to 4 minutes in the winter, at least 1 minute in the summer. I try to change *all* fluids every 3 years, including brake fluid, manual transmission oil, antifreeze, and rear axle fluid. Haven't done the power steering fluid yet, but I had better this summer. Still smells good (not burnt). If your key stops working, have the dealer parts guy (or lady) cut you a new key. Don't let someone tell you you need a new lock. Heck, get a new key cut anyway - it feels great to use! If you have trouble shifting, check your shifter bushings at the bottom of the stick before you let someone tell you you need a new clutch or transmission. If you are having trouble shifting or the truck won't stay in a gear (usually 3rd), you can test for this by lifting up a slight bit on the shifter while attempting to shift. If it goes into gear, your shifter seat bushing is probably worn. Mine gave out at 177,100 miles. Unbolt the cover containing the shifter lever carefully, and replace it yourself. Part costs $7. at the Toyota dealer. I learned the hard way at a repair shop that diagnosed & replaced the clutch first that was not needed (bozos-r-us) before diagnosing myself with the help of a friendly Toyota parts department employee - they can be one of your trucks best friends. Watch the brake fliud "load sense proportioning valve" located on your rear axle for leakage. Mine gave out around 170,000 miles. Cost is around $120. at the Toyota dealer, about the only place you can get one. It is essentially a rear master cylinder that doesn't hold much fluid but redirects more braking force to the rear wheels when the truck is loaded. Well that about it in a nutshell. One more thing - even with the best maintenance you can do, nothing will kill your truck faster than a wreck. So one more thing I do to make my truck last is avoid accidents!! Hope this helps, - Paul |
|
|
Replying to: bayvilla (Mar 31, 2005 7:22 am) Sorry for the delayed response. Yes, that was the problem I had when my shifter bushing disintegrated. Lift up as you shift into gear, and if it goes in, your shifter bushing is probably in little bits & pieces. New seat at Toyota dealer costs around $7. I seriously doubt that you need a new mount on the transmission - the sagging is probably that your bushing seat has been worn to bits by years of rowing through the gears. Gook luck! - Paul |
|
|
Replying to: mauigrom23 (Mar 27, 2005 6:04 am) The fuel filter on the '93 (and probably '94) 22-RE 4cyl is under the intake manifold. You can't see it from the top of the engine or the bottom. Not fun to replace. It's been over 100,000 miles since mine was changed (at 106,000 miles) and I'm still trying to put it off longer! No decrease in performance so far. - Paul |
|
You are here:
Forums
Pickups Toyota Tacoma Toyota Tacoma Care and Maintenance
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2011 Toyota Tacoma
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
