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Fuel and Oil Additives

1246 messages,  Last post on Sep 28, 2009 at 7:37 AM

You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright

What is this discussion about? Fuel System, Engine, Fuel System, Oil, Diesel, Fuel Efficiency (MPG)


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#1207 of 1246
Re: thanks for the info [Mr_Shiftright] by shipo
May 10, 2009 (1:03 pm)
Reply

Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 10, 2009 11:26 am)

"Sounds like Camguard is for engines that sit a long time without use, such as aircraft and marine."
 
To refine that even further, I'd say that Camguard was originally designed for the Lycoming boxer four engines that were suffering frequent cam failures due to the fact that the cam sits high and dry when the engine isn't operating, and is highly prone to rust.
 
Putting cam guard in an automobile engine is simply a waste of time and money as it is highly unlikely to add even an extra mile to the life of the engine.
 
Best regards,
Shipo
#1208 of 1246
Re: thanks for the info [shipo] by kurtamaxxxguy
May 10, 2009 (9:43 pm)
Reply

Replying to: shipo (May 10, 2009 1:03 pm)

While Camguard was designed for aircraft engines like the Lycoming, the engineer who made it repeatedly says it is not a waste of money for automotive use.
 
http://www.aslcamguard.com/faq.php (the FAQ section) explains why.
 
Meanwhile, here is his latest response to me:
 
It can be frustrating dealing with all the "experts" on forums. I am busy
putting together the website info for the Auto Camguard so I don't have time
(I don't write very fast) to change the aircraft site to reflect what you're
asking for. Because it involves a bit of explanation, I leave it at the
information in the FAQ.
Just know you are doing the best you can do for your car.
Regards, Ed

 
If people reading the FAQ believe it's a waste of money, they should not buy it.
 
#1209 of 1246
Re: thanks for the info [kurtamaxxxguy] by shipo
May 11, 2009 (2:36 am)
Reply

Replying to: kurtamaxxxguy (May 10, 2009 9:43 pm)

The engineers for the companies that bring us Slick-50 and the Tornado Fuel Saver say glowing things about their products as well. There are even suckers that "claim" that these products cause their vehicles to perform amazing feats of fuel consumption and such. Do I believe any of it? Not a chance.
 
Long story short, the only thing I can see Cam Guard being good for is to lighten your wallet while enriching the folks who make it.
#1210 of 1246
Re: thanks for the info [shipo] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
May 11, 2009 (6:01 am)
Reply

Replying to: shipo (May 11, 2009 2:36 am)

Well he says himself "Infrequently used engines will be the greatest benefactors".
 
So can we not infer "frequently used engines will receive the least benefit"?
 
I don't see why that inference makes me a forums dope.
#1211 of 1246
Re: thanks for the info [Mr_Shiftright] by kurtamaxxxguy
May 12, 2009 (11:49 am)
Reply

Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 11, 2009 6:01 am)

I chatted with both my service advisers today and they told me that if I use Synthetic oil in my '09 Forester, the engine __will__ burn a lot more oil.
As Subaru warranty _requires_ change every 3000 to 3750 miles and Synthetic costs 2X regular, it's not solution for me.
 
For those who can run Synthetic 10K or up is Phillips, Royal Purple, Mobil 1 or Red Line appear good choices (info's from advisors and Ed).
 
Ok, Changing gears:
 
Any opinions on Hy-Per Lube products? Lucas Oil? Are they as worthless as MMO, STP, ZMAX, Prolong Restore, and possibly every other additive out there?
 
How about fuel additives? Auto shelves are groaning with "octane boosters" and "nitro in a can" (and no, I don't use that stuff).
#1212 of 1246
Re: thanks for the info [kurtamaxxxguy] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
May 12, 2009 (2:20 pm)
Reply

Replying to: kurtamaxxxguy (May 12, 2009 11:49 am)

Oddly enough, as weird as it sounds, when I put synthetic in my Subaru, it did in fact use more oil. So I switched out. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with Subarus in particular, or with boxer engines.....or it could be entirely bogus and my one time anecdotal experience proves nothing.
 
The only prohibition on synthetic oil that I ever heard that made any sense was for Mazda rotary engines, and it came from a very credible Mazda source.
#1213 of 1246
Re: thanks for the info [kurtamaxxxguy] by shipo
May 12, 2009 (2:24 pm)
Reply

Replying to: kurtamaxxxguy (May 12, 2009 11:49 am)

"I chatted with both my service advisers today and they told me that if I use Synthetic oil in my '09 Forester, the engine __will__ burn a lot more oil."
 
I've heard a lot of dumb things come from dealership personell over the years, and that's one of the dumbest. If a service advisor had tried to tell me that, I would have asked him to put it in writing so that I could send it to the parent company.
 
As for the other additive products, Snake Oil, every one of them. The absolute best fluids for your car are unaltered oil and unaltered fuel. Period, full stop, the end.
 
In the end, I simply don't understand is your need to look for ways of wasting your money on such products.
#1214 of 1246
Re: thanks for the info [Mr_Shiftright] by kurtamaxxxguy
May 13, 2009 (3:44 pm)
Reply

Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 12, 2009 2:20 pm)

Oddly enough, as weird as it sounds, when I put synthetic in my Subaru, it did in fact use more oil. So I switched out. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with Subarus in particular, or with boxer engines.....or it could be entirely bogus and my one time anecdotal experience proves nothing.
 
My advisors found the same for their Subarus; one said he noticed oil burning was mostly during startups/cold engines.
He did not have any answer as to the cause; the engines did not exhibit any symptoms when using "natural" oil.
   
Subaru Corporate says while they do not specifically recommend synthetic, they allow it provided it's changed per factory schedule (no 10K oil changes for them. ). Corporate also says their engine becomes "accustomed" to a specific oil (use synth or natural; don't switch), and __not__ to use synthetic before engine is broken in (1000 miles minimum).
 
Out of curiosity, why does Mazda not recomend Synthetic oil for the Rotary?
What I briefly read mentioned issues with seals or improper burnoff.
Mobil one posted this comment at their site:
 
Mazda does not recommend the use of synthetic oils in its rotary engines. To help maintain your vehicle's warranty coverage, we suggest that you follow your car builder's engine oil recommendation.
#1215 of 1246
Re: thanks for the info [kurtamaxxxguy] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
May 13, 2009 (3:56 pm)
Reply

Replying to: kurtamaxxxguy (May 13, 2009 3:44 pm)

Mazda didn't ban it, but Mazdatrix posted a caution about it based on their tear down of numerous engines run on synthetic. Something about leaving residue on the apex seals. Do I know what I'm talking about? Not really.
 
I tried synthetic in the Subaru because I thought it might diminish Subaru's notorious piston slap on cold start-up (short-skirted women might be attractive but not short-skirt pistons). Didn't work and starting eating a quart every 1,000. Now with regular oil I get about a quart every 1500--2000.
 
I have no idea why this happened.
#1216 of 1246
Re: thanks for the info [Mr_Shiftright] by kurtamaxxxguy
May 13, 2009 (8:38 pm)
Reply

Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 13, 2009 3:56 pm)

Something about leaving residue on the apex seals
 
Yes, I saw some comments like that on the Mazda forums too.
 
The Subaru advisors suspect their Synthetic usage is seal leakage, but aren't curious enough to tear their ride apart to find it.
 
For that matter, I'm not sure how mechanics find seal leakage (compression tests might find valve seal leakage, but how to check crank/camshalf ? )
 
This web site came up in a "fix auto seals" search; appears to be an engine cleaning and seal rejuvenation compound using esters rather than solvents. Site's a mix of tests and testimonials;
 
http://www.auto-rx.com/pages/how-auto-rx-works.html
 
and explanation from the chemist himself:
 
http://www.mx6.com/forums/general-automotive/94615-autorx-chemist-explains-how-w- orks.html

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