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Fuel and Oil Additives

1246 messages, Last post on Sep 28, 2009 at 7:37 AM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 10, 2009 11:26 am) To refine that even further, I'd say that Camguard was originally designed for the Lycoming boxer four engines that were suffering frequent cam failures due to the fact that the cam sits high and dry when the engine isn't operating, and is highly prone to rust. Putting cam guard in an automobile engine is simply a waste of time and money as it is highly unlikely to add even an extra mile to the life of the engine. Best regards, Shipo
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Replying to: shipo (May 10, 2009 1:03 pm) http://www.aslcamguard.com/faq.php (the FAQ section) explains why. Meanwhile, here is his latest response to me: It can be frustrating dealing with all the "experts" on forums. I am busy putting together the website info for the Auto Camguard so I don't have time (I don't write very fast) to change the aircraft site to reflect what you're asking for. Because it involves a bit of explanation, I leave it at the information in the FAQ. Just know you are doing the best you can do for your car. Regards, Ed If people reading the FAQ believe it's a waste of money, they should not buy it.
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Replying to: kurtamaxxxguy (May 10, 2009 9:43 pm) Long story short, the only thing I can see Cam Guard being good for is to lighten your wallet while enriching the folks who make it.
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Replying to: shipo (May 11, 2009 2:36 am) So can we not infer "frequently used engines will receive the least benefit"? I don't see why that inference makes me a forums dope.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 11, 2009 6:01 am) As Subaru warranty _requires_ change every 3000 to 3750 miles and Synthetic costs 2X regular, it's not solution for me. For those who can run Synthetic 10K or up is Phillips, Royal Purple, Mobil 1 or Red Line appear good choices (info's from advisors and Ed). Ok, Changing gears: Any opinions on Hy-Per Lube products? Lucas Oil? Are they as worthless as MMO, STP, ZMAX, Prolong Restore, and possibly every other additive out there? How about fuel additives? Auto shelves are groaning with "octane boosters" and "nitro in a can" (and no, I don't use that stuff).
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Replying to: kurtamaxxxguy (May 12, 2009 11:49 am) The only prohibition on synthetic oil that I ever heard that made any sense was for Mazda rotary engines, and it came from a very credible Mazda source.
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Replying to: kurtamaxxxguy (May 12, 2009 11:49 am) I've heard a lot of dumb things come from dealership personell over the years, and that's one of the dumbest. If a service advisor had tried to tell me that, I would have asked him to put it in writing so that I could send it to the parent company. As for the other additive products, Snake Oil, every one of them. The absolute best fluids for your car are unaltered oil and unaltered fuel. Period, full stop, the end. In the end, I simply don't understand is your need to look for ways of wasting your money on such products. |
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 12, 2009 2:20 pm) My advisors found the same for their Subarus; one said he noticed oil burning was mostly during startups/cold engines. He did not have any answer as to the cause; the engines did not exhibit any symptoms when using "natural" oil. Subaru Corporate says while they do not specifically recommend synthetic, they allow it provided it's changed per factory schedule (no 10K oil changes for them. Out of curiosity, why does Mazda not recomend Synthetic oil for the Rotary? What I briefly read mentioned issues with seals or improper burnoff. Mobil one posted this comment at their site: Mazda does not recommend the use of synthetic oils in its rotary engines. To help maintain your vehicle's warranty coverage, we suggest that you follow your car builder's engine oil recommendation.
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Replying to: kurtamaxxxguy (May 13, 2009 3:44 pm) I tried synthetic in the Subaru because I thought it might diminish Subaru's notorious piston slap on cold start-up (short-skirted women might be attractive but not short-skirt pistons). Didn't work and starting eating a quart every 1,000. Now with regular oil I get about a quart every 1500--2000. I have no idea why this happened.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 13, 2009 3:56 pm) Yes, I saw some comments like that on the Mazda forums too. The Subaru advisors suspect their Synthetic usage is seal leakage, but aren't curious enough to tear their ride apart to find it. For that matter, I'm not sure how mechanics find seal leakage (compression tests might find valve seal leakage, but how to check crank/camshalf ? ) This web site came up in a "fix auto seals" search; appears to be an engine cleaning and seal rejuvenation compound using esters rather than solvents. Site's a mix of tests and testimonials; http://www.auto-rx.com/pages/how-auto-rx-works.html and explanation from the chemist himself: http://www.mx6.com/forums/general-automotive/94615-autorx-chemist-explains-how-w- orks.html |
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