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Fuel and Oil Additives

1246 messages, Last post on Sep 28, 2009 at 7:37 AM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Mar 29, 2009 8:32 am) |
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Replying to: zaken1 (Mar 28, 2009 9:10 pm) Also there is a different test that is needed to pass the new classification,in short it is for salt water moisture exposure that most automotive engines are not exposed to. Red line and RP did not have a oil with the NMMA FC-W classification and other than the simi syn.of quicksilver, Amsoil had the only fully syn. on the market. I had looked at a obscure company that had a claimed syn. oil that I could not get any info MSDS or spec's When I changed the oil filter I drained some oil until clean and ended up replacing 2QT. I will change over to the fully syn at 10 hrs. I do not want to run wide open throttle without Fully syn oil. I have gone from a 15w40 to the AMSOIL 10w40 for a little easier flow, cold. I have since 05, done the switch to syn. oil on three motors (non outboard) with no problems. Most piston rings are pre seated these days with a lapping process and piston bores are finished at 125 or better (still cross-hatched) unlike the good old days. The rest of the engine parts are different animals as far as break-in is concerned. Anyway, thanks again for your input and my motor is running good so far. |
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Replying to: shipo (Mar 28, 2009 9:51 pm) I do not know, nor can I say that the AMSOIL is better than the Quicksilver at this point, because I have not looked at their spec sheets if the Quicksilver oil even has one I can access. I hope to do that soon. Basspro
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Replying to: basspro (Apr 04, 2009 12:10 pm) I've always felt that Amsoil operates with shady business ethics (the language regarding the application of their European oils is a prime example), and have (and will continue to) always avoid their products. Best regards, Shipo
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It seems every few years another "miracle" additive hits the market. There are usually sold "Amway" style and they always seem to go away quickly as people find our they do nothing. Replace worn out metal? Impossible. I have seen certain additives get rid of carbon that has caused a loss in compression. Rislone seems to do a good job at this. I've watched old times squirt water down carburators to accomplish the same thing. This is very risky but believe me, it works!
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Replying to: isellhondas (Apr 04, 2009 3:54 pm) I suppose that excessive carbon could cause compression rings to stick although I've never actually seen this happen on a modern engine using modern fuels. The worst thing I've seen happen to modern engines is sludge, and this is best prevented by frequent oil changes or use of synthetic oils. Once your engine is severely 'sludged up" there is certainly nothing in a can that's going to clean it all out. You have to take it apart. Engine flushes can barely touch it, it's so tenacious in there.
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Replying to: shipo (Apr 04, 2009 1:23 pm) That being said I appreciate you info and if you happen to see or hear of a fully syn oil that meets the NMMA FC-W certification,I would be glad to look into it. I just went to the different out board motor sites,and goggled marine oil a few different ways and then went to E-Bay and Yahoo to shop around. I found one other brand I had never heard of and goggled it a got a marine center up on the East coast. I assumed they wear pouring up their own concoction and got out of there. I will write RP and Redline along with Lucas to see what they have in the pipeline and I will switch when something full syn. comes out. At ten hrs. I will also install an oil bypass system and start oil analysis at 50 and 100 hrs. etc... to get proper oil change intervals no matter what full syn oil I use. I do appreciate your incite, and hope if you see spec sheets on other full syn. products for marine service,that you or anyone else who reads this site would forward it to me. I am like most here and want the least wear, most dependability I can get from any motor I use. Oil is one of the main components and I plan to keep the boat for twenty plus years,if I live that long. Basspro
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Replying to: basspro (Apr 05, 2009 6:35 am) http://www.nmma.org/certification/programs/oils/registeredoil.asp?y=FC-W2008 The list contains many oils, some of which may be synthetic, some are most likely not. The only oil brand that I'm really familiar with is Motul, and I have a great appreciation for their products (which as I understand it, are primarily Group IV synthetics). That said, I'm not sure of Motul is available in North America. Best regards, Shipo |
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Apr 04, 2009 4:24 pm) When I was a kid working in a gas station we had a local Japanese gardner who never had time to bring his truck in for an oil change..." Too busy"! But every time he needed gas, it seemed we would have to add a quart of oil. At least once a week, along with the oil, he would have us add a can of STP. Oh, and he insisted we use one of the "Penn" oils that used to gum up engines. It was an old Chevy with a 235 six and one day it finally died. I got the job of getting his old engine ready for a local Machine Shop to overhaul. I had to beat the valve cover off with a hammer and you can't believe what was underneath it! |
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Replying to: isellhondas (Apr 05, 2009 11:00 am) Just before I stopped wrenching for a living, one guy brought me an engine that had been abused with STP and Quaker State and I asked him to take it to someone else. Best regards, Shipo
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